TE/TC 17 TE 150

[dartyppyt]

My 2 cents...
We ran the CR Wiseco in the WR.

Single ring, but liked the oil ports on the exhaust side. This pic is from a coolant leak overheat that could have been a lot worse in my opinion without the extra lube. Not sure what your 3 options provide...

Ouch! Yeah, not sure which direction to go?

 

[wallybean]

My two cents worth of nothing. Two ring piston, stick with stock. Single ring piston go with the forged Wiseco. The forged piston will need a little extra clearance so make sure you have .002" 3/4 of the way down the piston from the top.

 

[dartyppyt]

My two cents worth of nothing. Two ring piston, stick with stock. Single ring piston go with the forged Wiseco. The forged piston will need a little extra clearance so make sure you have .002" 3/4 of the way down the piston from the top.

Walt, I appreciate it!

Great answer as usual!

 

[wallybean]

I am having some combustion chamber inserts made. I had trouble getting a consistent solder test as the water jacket head cover doesn't seem to uniformly hold the insert in place. We are only talking about a couple of thousand's but kind of makes me believe you have to have the water jacket fitted too if you are going to tighten your tolerances and optimize squish and compression. My X dimension was spot on from the factory but the power valve bottom height was a bit low. I will be cleaning up the exhaust port/flange and matching to the pipe. Once again the factory cylinder casting was much better than the old KTM standard. Very little matching that needs to be done. I don't want to mess with port timing at all as it really rocks stock. Just want to enhance efficiency and modify the combustion chamber to bring out a bit better off idle to mid torque. Pulls clean and strong from 0 to forever but a bit tighter squish/more compression will boost that. I already run higher octane so that isn't an issue especially at my altitudes.

 

[wallybean]

PS, When the inserts are done, I will give everyone a link to get one direct from the manufacturer. After I have tested with my butt dyno first of course.

 

[dartyppyt]

Yeah Walt, I here ya on that. Bike rips so good, I'm afraid to mess with it.
Yes, I'm definately interested in a insert.
Only thing I was going to do, is work on exhaust area/pipe match/case/cylinder match. You on the money as usual.
My goal is to build a neat cone pipe like my vintage ones I've done and would like to make an aluminum tank copied off the translucent one. Rest will be cosmetics.
If guys could throw a leg over one of these jetted or carbed correctly. They'd sell heck out of these.

Good luck trying to pry this bike out of my dead frozen hands some day.

 

[dartyppyt]

Walt? Do the head inserts push out by hand or you have to press them out,

Prob a sealing o ring up in there?

Here nother question. Are you going to run thinnest base gasket with new inserts?

 

[wallybean]

I want to stay with a 0.000 x dimension as much as possible. I don't know that a few thousand's either way make a huge difference but Husky/KTM want that. So I will keep the base gasket matched accordingly. The inserts just fall out into your hand. They have an o-ring seal top and bottom. I asked that they design a couple of inserts, race gas and mixed higher octane gas/high elevation. Both should have better squish measurements.

 

[dartyppyt]

Sounds good Walt.

Do you know if they gonna do any fancy head coolant chambers above inserts?

I'd like a fancy blue one? If not that ok cause I have a blue coating I can use in grand daughters easy bake oven. Unless I can get Mrs to go on trip so can use one in house.....

Last night I dismantled my sub frame and air box. I have quite bit of muddy water that dried back in all the seams. I was lil shocked at all mud hidden everywhere, that I thought was clean.

So think just going to black silicone all the seams before re assembly.

I can also see why the box and subframe creates a gap over time, so I'm going to sneek a few pop rivets in there.

 

[dartyppyt]

Messed around getting engine cleaned up.

Best way to clean your natural cast cases is:

The Works Toilet Bowl cleaner and Scotch Brite pad.

I've tried several things, Wd 40, etc..... But it does job fastest with best results.

Just use a tooth brush and soak the scrub with pad, wipe off, Wd 40 afterwards.

Takes out the brown stains. Cases look like new.

I'm doing the same to swing arm, then hitting with soft wire wheel.

I've used it quite bit on cleaning aluminum boat hulls, to get crap off and it's cheap at Walmart.

 

[eddychecker]

For the really stubborn stains, I use oven cleaner. The results are amazing.

 

[dartyppyt]

Old Yeller!

 

[eddychecker]

Old Yeller!

I love it, it makes me want to redo mine.

 

[reveille]

Old Yeller!

I just hope you don't have to put er down at the end of the chapter

 

[dartyppyt]

Thanx guys!

Come spring the bike should look sweet.

Been buying parts in different colors, laying out different color schemes. Then returning parts I don't like color wise.

Gonna do some neat stuff to Old Yeller!

So, I think I got it nailed..... and time to build a motee sickle.

 

[Norman Foley]

I loved the yellow frame on my '12 Husaberg TE250. I keep thinking that if I keep my '16 KTM 200 XC-W, I'll do a yellow frame and make it into a Husaberg Replica!

 

[LandofMotards]

Made your berg a husky and now making the ktm a berg lol

 

[Norman Foley]

Made your berg a husky and now making the ktm a berg lol

You always have to keep one degree of separation!

 

[troy deck]

i know a guy that berged out a YZ125 turned out pretty kool

 

[dartyppyt]

Rear spring is done.