• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc '14 WR300

thanks - I cant claim credit - sometimes you get lucky . Ive been lucky with buying and trading bikes lately
Still a bit of work to do to get bike sorted

The shorter lever is definitely on the cards as the clutch egages when lever right near bars so your other fingers get in the way

I have a spare Brembo hydraulic lever but not sure if that will work with a Magura conversion kit
Cant seem to find any kits with just cable and slave cylinder
$350 for full kit to convert to Hydraulic is a bit much .
I think the shorter lever and easier pull cable set up may be the go


I put bar clamp to forward position . Lowered carb height . I put in a 30 pilot and it still seems rich down low in this heat around high twenties C .
I need to go and do some main jet testing and also trying the #5 slide from Iceberg Stus recommendations.
Changed throttle cable .
Still not idling very high without using cable adjustment beyond standard range :confused:

Going to fit a Tubliss on rear and new tyre to tackle those hills again . Has got a Pirelli MT21 on it which doesn't seem too great.

Will try moving the kick start lever forward a notch to see if that helps with kicking it and possibly retard ignition if that helps

If I cant get a good result I will look at lowering compression and/or the decompression head option
 
Funny thing - the clutch cover and frame is now all scratched after one ride - so not sure what previous owner was doing - riding in his slippers ?
 
You got a vid Rocky on the idling? Is it a stock carb or swapped over to a keihin or something? Have you adjusted the idle screw at the carb (some mikuni's have the PITA locking nut and phillips head).

Re: Clutch, if it's the OE clutch cable l recommend a venhill featherlite teflon clutch cable and other's will recommend the motiopro terminator cable, as stated before you may need to measure out the length with an aftermarket perch lever setup.

Re: Cracking around the air boot: Shoe gue is you friend, best rubber sealant l've used.
 
Its idling very nicely but I have the Mikuni carb screw right in and have the throttle adjuster out most of the way to get an idle. I can get a bit higher idle on top of carb cable adjuster but something doesn't seem right
I ts not the carb - Ive tried a different one . Using the choke doesn't seem to change it much either . Its working ok but not sure why its idling so low

Fitted the Tubliss today - that was fun
All good though - seems to be holding pressure :(
new Bridgestone Battlecross x30 fitted
Also fitted fork seal dust covers - always use these and haven't had seal issues

DSC_5063.JPG
 
Getting the jetting to work correctly while also getting the TMX to idle down quickly and to just idle acceptably - that is what ultimately made me throw the TMX in the garbage. You can get it to work, then the weather changes and you start all over... Total waste of time, unless a guy just likes to work on stuff. The TMX is awesome for WFO power. Never understood why it is used on a woods bike. Dumb.
 
rockdancer said:
Fitted the Tubliss today - that was fun
All good though - seems to be holding pressure :(
new Bridgestone Battlecross x30 fitted
Also fitted fork seal dust covers - always use these and haven't had seal issues
Click to expand...

Tubliss gets a big :thumbsup: here. Had to top off the high side the 1st couple of rides, now it holds pressure and works great.
Interesting tire choice for Tubliss. It looks huge and beefy in the pic, but it's a 110 isn't it? Can you measure it's actual width please? Interested in how low a pressure you can run without the tire rolling and wallowing in turns.
 
rockdancer said:
Its idling very nicely but I have the Mikuni carb screw right in and have the throttle adjuster out most of the way to get an idle. I can get a bit higher idle on top of carb cable adjuster but something doesn't seem right
I ts not the carb - Ive tried a different one . Using the choke doesn't seem to change it much either . Its working ok but not sure why its idling so low
Click to expand...
Sounds like the wrong pilot jet. The air screw is typically backed out about 1 and 1/4 turn. One that is turned all the way in indicates too small a pilot jet. It should at least be able to be turned out 3/4 and achieve the correct idle. Also you should be able to get the correct idle with the idle adjustment screw. You should NEVER adjust the idle through the cable, because you should always have some cable slack, and about 3 mm free play in the throttle tube on the handle bar.
 
"Sounds like the wrong pilot jet. The air screw is typically backed out about 1 and 1/4 turn. One that is turned all the way in indicates too small a pilot jet. It should at least be able to be turned out 3/4 and achieve the correct idle. Also you should be able to get the correct idle with the idle adjustment screw. You should NEVER adjust the idle through the cable, because you should always have some cable slack, and about 3 mm free play in the throttle tube on the handle bar."


thanks but I was talking about the idle screw adjustment being all the way in


Air screw has been around 1 1/2 to 2 /12
(If I put it all the way in it would it dies which is normal )

Ive had big and small pilot jets in there , adjusted float , changed cable

I may try larger pilot again but it needs to start easy

I ve had to adjust cable to get idle high enough

Maybe the boot is leaking but it doesn't sound like its lean - just the opposite
 
Steve
Bmw era was really only 449/511 models

Mine came off a 2008 TE 250 which would fit any model

They are a quality product and AUD$ is low . (I probably would'nt pay new price) They work well as they you don't lose some contact with pegs as your boot rotates

Do you get that tyre in the states ? Boogie and a lot of guys are running them here( some with Tubliss) - flavour of the month
 
Heaps of guys rave on about tubliss setup..l still prefer the UHD Michie tubes.

Idle screw all the way in...wow that thing should be idling madly, have you pulled the carb off and stripped and cleaned? I recently did a top end and gave the carb a good bath and blow dry and now the idle screw actually works...gunna toss soon with a PWK off my 360:thumbsup:
 
You can run 6 psi with tubes but risky and I like the idea of low psi and not carrying tubes and tools to fix on trail - just plug it up it that ever happens


Yes - I have tried two carbs very clean carbs but will check again and will also try my 39 mm RB designs mikuni that came off the 165

I tried two PWKs in the past and wasn't that happy with them - thats why I haven't jumped on the Lectron wagon

The bikes running very well apart from the low idle
 
rockdancer said:
"Sounds like the wrong pilot jet. The air screw is typically backed out about 1 and 1/4 turn. One that is turned all the way in indicates too small a pilot jet. It should at least be able to be turned out 3/4 and achieve the correct idle. Also you should be able to get the correct idle with the idle adjustment screw. You should NEVER adjust the idle through the cable, because you should always have some cable slack, and about 3 mm free play in the throttle tube on the handle bar."


thanks but I was talking about the idle screw adjustment being all the way in
Click to expand...
Even worse.
 
Looks like the deformed Union or intake manifold was the culprit for the low idle speed
It mustn't have allowed the motor to suck enough air through the idle circuit
New genuine part from new distributor is a also lot stiffer than the old one - hopefully issue solved
 
The Perth based KTM mob
Not Paul Feeney Group

Got a new base gasket which came from PFG - they still have some old parts in their shed
 
Ahh yeah I thought u meant someone else had takèn over from them. Are they stocking much do u know?(cylinders, hubs, subframe or the like or jus basic stuff)
 
No idea - but the dealer said they will have no issues getting parts

I don't know though as w hen I sold the 125 I was after a base gasket and there wasn't any in the country - so a 6 week ? wait

I used the .8mm gasket I had LOL - when I put it back to 125
 
Guess well see! There's a new husky dealer down my way but havnt bn in yet.

Shoulda hit me up I have coupla spare base gaskets for both bikes!
 
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