• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125 to rebuild

RUF

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am working around a 125 engine to rebuild it and I found some bad surprises.
I guess water came into it and for a long time.
This is what I found.
I am wondering to use some epoxy but am worried about that. Never used on heating places.
Have you guys any advice please?
Thanks
G.
 

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I think you would be money, time and frustrations ahead by finding a different motor / cases to start with.
 
cant tell from the pic but if its just calcium and shmutz? i've popped out the bearing, plugged the race with a rubber hose, masked it well and walnut hull blasted it clean. forgot what paint i used on the outside of the case been forever since ive done one. main thing is if the bosses, seal surfaces and races are pitt free and the webbing is not corroded and pitted ive reused them when the client wanted to keep the oem engine.
 
Make sure that when you buy case's also use matching one's as they seal better alway's buy them by the pair when you can .
 
there is a small hole in the lower part of one side and I thought to weld it using epoxy....I have no experience with epoxy in a heathed place...
 
I have fixed one exactly the same as that.
Sandblast and paint the area then pencil grind the hole both sides so that the DEVCON cannot fall out.
Devcon it.
Then file face flat and tidy up.
Working ok so far.:banana:
 
Sorry RUF have done the big search of my shed and can't find it.
Must have used it up and chucked the empty's.
My 400 looked just like that and as I said I fixed it and have done over 1000k's so far with no probs.:)

Any epoxy that's fuel proof will do I think.
 
Thanks alot. I was ready to try to fix it and now I am more than happy to know that works.
Ruf
 
i used araldite and fibre fill on the water pump housing on the 400 with great results so far and it was see through!:eek: done 4 big rides, clean gear oil.... it can be machined ok. just clean the corrosion off completely, totally, absolutely none at all ...Get the picture? i had it water blasted and then picked at it for half an hour to make sure all the pits were cleaned out. Its the biggest risk to the job.
 
I have worked on many corroded cases and some had holes through the case. I use JB Weld and so far no problems.
 
t IMG_0911.jpg


Why not strip the case right out and weld it....I had to do that on my 82 430. It's a difficult job but it can be done. It might not look that nice but it's much better that Devcon
 
That's right Steve. It is reasonably easy to get it welded up! Send it to www.realitymotorworks.com and Nick will get it stripped, blasted, Magnesium welded and re- powder coated. See the pic attcahed of one he did for me. Almost half of the chain cover web and the back stub were built back up ready for machining. The key is the correct grade magnesium based filler rod and a good welder...Casing Repair.JPG
Andy Elliott
 
The key is knowing the exact grade filler rod to use. Does anyone here happen to know it? The next best is to use strips cut from a discarded case. I will have some after I cut the reduction web out of a 250CR case to convert to 430 crank usage. But those chunks I am holding in reserve :)
 
Also for anyone not intimately familiar with JB Weld, it is good to 600°F more than fine for any lower end case patching. Fuel resistant as well
 
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