• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

12 hole injector a worthy upgrade?

T

Todd Riley

Husqvarna
Hi guys I just bought a 2010 te250 and have done an enduro and hare scramble in the last two weeks. The bike bogs a little in the bottom end which causes me some problems when going slow through hairy stuff. I've read a little about the 12 hole injector and ecu upgrade really improving bottom end... Anyone have any knowledge about it?
 
I haven't done the injector /ecu upgrade but installed a PCV/ autotune and the bike doesn't miss a beat. Stalling gone, low rpm bog gone and it seems to have much more power.
 
A previous owner changed the sprockets... Don't know the exact numbers but I believe he went up 3 teeth on the rear and down a tooth on the front... So she's tourqued up good its just the bogging that's an issue
 
Todd Riley said:
Thanks for the tip what exactly is a pcv/ autotune?
Click to expand...
PCV = DynoJet Power Commander 5 (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/default.aspx)
Autotune = addition to the PowerCommander that puts an O2 sensor in the exhaust and uses feedback from that (and other settings such as Throttle position, RPM, etc) to self-tweak your air/fuel adjustments in the PowerCommander map. (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Products/AutoTune/powercommander_autotune.aspx)
 
Yes, do the upgrade. I wasted money and far too much time with fuel injection tuners (JD Tuner) and although I did improve the bogging and hesitation it still had issues and would stall at the most awkward moments. Get the injector and ECU and the bike will ride how it's supposed to with no messing and no more headaches!!!
12 tooth front and 50 tooth rear seems to be the most popular gearing choice and also what I run.
 
Thanks guys really appreciate the help! Howbout installing the injector/ecu does it require a professional or easy it pretty easy to do?
 
Todd Riley said:
Thanks guys really appreciate the help! Howbout installing the injector/ecu does it require a professional or easy it pretty easy to do?
Click to expand...

Remove the tank and the ECU is simply unplug the old one and plug in the new. For the injector I would recommend taking the throttle body off the bike before attempting to undo the two pozi drive screws which hold the injector in, they are tight and you can't easily get a screw driver on to the screws and get any real pressure behind it, hence, they round off as they are soft. Put the body in a vice, carefully, and they will come out with a good fitting driver and plenty of downwards pressure. Put new injector in, replace dodgy screws with cap head bolts and put it back together, if you're handy with the tools it will only take an hour or so.
 
I did mine while I was swapping out the stock rears shock spring for a fat@$$ spring. With the subframe and shock out of the way, it's easy-peasy to remove the old injector and install the new one, but I would highly recommend squirting some kroil on the fuel rail screws it letting is soak for an hour or so before trying to remove them, otherwise you will likely strip the heads off. If that happens, you can use a hammer and small chisel to give them a few light raps and break them loose. I recommend replacing them with allen head cap screws. The ECU is under the tank, so you have to remove the tank to get to it. Nothing particularly difficult about that. Do you have access to iBeat? You will probably have to reset the TPS when you are done.
 
Hi, For me, I buy 12 hole injector + ECU + Ibeat, change TPS setting to 102.4 en CO setting to 110 109 108 and it's not comparable, no bog. So, after, I also have rework my stock exhaust, and make my own powerbomb... and wow... what difference! She's very punchy and have good torque at low rpm...
 
instead of kroll or pb blaster if you don't have any a little heat on the screw heads to melt the threadlock will help takin them out. no need to go crazy with a big torch or anything, just a small soldering iron or troch
 
Aaronc said:
instead of kroll or pb blaster if you don't have any a little heat on the screw heads to melt the threadlock will help takin them out. no need to go crazy with a big torch or anything, just a small soldering iron or troch
Click to expand...

There was no threadlock on the screws I removed. I think they stick because of dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion.
 
I like the 12 port injectors and the PCV & autotune is superior to the ecu swap out. PCV is not a tuner, it is an ecu replacement that is fully adjustable.
 
Mike-AK said:
I did mine while I was swapping out the stock rears shock spring for a fat@$$ spring. With the subframe and shock out of the way, it's easy-peasy to remove the old injector and install the new one, but I would highly recommend squirting some kroil on the fuel rail screws it letting is soak for an hour or so before trying to remove them, otherwise you will likely strip the heads off. If that happens, you can use a hammer and small chisel to give them a few light raps and break them loose. I recommend replacing them with allen head cap screws. The ECU is under the tank, so you have to remove the tank to get to it. Nothing particularly difficult about that. Do you have access to iBeat? You will probably have to reset the TPS when you are done.
Click to expand...
No I don't have access too ibeat... How much is it and is it difficult to use? I found a dealer near me who will do the injector and ecu upgrade install it and tune it for $500... Is that a good price?
 
Todd Riley said:
No I don't have access too ibeat... How much is it and is it difficult to use? I found a dealer near me who will do the injector and ecu upgrade install it and tune it for $500... Is that a good price?
Click to expand...

Yes. The kit is around $380 alone so add tax and labor and you get to $500 fast.
 
reveille said:
Yes. The kit is around $380 alone so add tax and labor and you get to $500 fast.
Click to expand...

The iBeat software and cable from Semco Designs is $295, so if you do it yourself it would be $675, however, you would still have the iBeat software to adjust CO settings and do TPS resets, as well as fuel injection diagnostics.
 
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