• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

11 te310 starts first try, but not second

H

husky72082

Husqvarna
B Class
I have 500 miles on my bike and this just started happening last week. If I stall, I can use the electric start once, but if I miss the start on the first try, the starter acts like it can't even turn over the bike on the second try.

I have to put the bike in gear, move the bike back and forth, then put it in neutral and then it will usually start.

Do you guys think this is a ring gear problem, valves out spec, or decompression switch issue?
 
Battery?

There have been some starter gear issues in some models. Maybe search the site or hope someone remembers.
 
I put in the SHORAI LITHIUM-IRON BATTERY (LFX-14L2-BS12) a while back. I thought about the battery, but I have been on some long rides, so I thought it should be well charged. I guess I could try the old one and see if the problem continues.
 
Definitely put "starter gear" in search.

There are at least 2 thread with info. One replaced ring gear in starter for fix.
 
I wouldn't mess with the valves. In my experience with my 449, it seems to die in a compression stroke if I dumb finger it and stall it. I think its just an issue with the strength of the starter motor once the bike gets hot. Not much air back there. Unless you are actually hearing abnormal grinding noises when u hit the magic button, I wouldn't go throwing cash at the starter either.
 
Checking the valve clearences is just good practice in general- problems or not, and its free (especially at 500 miles to get a reading of their stability as its pretty much broken in now) . If they (exhausts specifically) are on the loose side of specs would not let the ADC do its job and could cause the problem... but yea- the starter issues has been brought up alot and could deffinately be that too.
 
I'm dealing with this issue at the moment on my 2011 310.
Just got to order the right flywheel puller to inspect behind the flywheel.
So far no answers.
 
Ok, I'm new at this mechanic stuff, so bear with me. I measured .18mm off the left intake, .15mm off the right intake, so a little off spec on the left. It gets weird on the exhaust side. I'm up to .80mm on each exhaust and I've run out of feelers. That is over 4 times out of spec. Am I doing something wrong here? I checked the dead-center alignment and I've got the notch on the gears lined up with the parting line. Am I pushing the feelers in too hard? For easy access, I am pushing them in from the center of the cylinder to measure the exhaust side. Is that ok?
 
You sounds like you're at top dead center from the marks. The narrow part of the lobes should be pointed inward at about a 45 degree-ish angle. You could always do the straw-in-the-spark-plug-hole trick to double-check yourself.

From what I understand about pushing the feelers in, they should go in with some resistance, but you shouldn't force them and it doesn't matter whether you check from the inside or outside. The manual shows from the outside, so I usually do that.

If your valves are that far off, then your pain will probably be solved with shims. That seems insanely loose on the exhaust side, though, especially for only 500 miles! That ADC is definitely not working right if they're that far out of spec. That intake valve might be adding to the misery. I've heard on here that you can work within the range of .004-.006 on intake and .006-.008 on exhaust. I just bought a shim kit because my valves need constant adjustment. I think I am on the short list for a head job. :(

Be very careful unscrewing the bolts that hold down the cam covers. The threads lift out of there very easily. I have been very careful and have had to helicoil several of the holes. :(
 
Yes- if you are unfamiliar- double triple check your measurements...
Your intakes are ".18mm and .15mm" which is .007" and .0059" (loose and loose side of spec)

Your Exhausts are "both .80mm plus because you ran out of feelers" something is not right, seriously, .8mm is .031" and you haven't even found a feeler for that. Something is wrong with your measurement or the bike. Absolutely, the ADC is not working at that clearence. BUt that is WAY off for clearence. You need to feel confident in your measurement. Do you have any friends that can help you- or a close dealer? Otherwise I'd research this topic and maybe take some pics and throw them up of your TDC and where you are measuring.
 
I don't mean this as insulting, but make sure you're actually getting the feeler between the bucket and the lobe. Sometimes its hard to see what you're doing in that tight space and you can actually be putting the feeler in the space beside the lobe, which would give you an inaccurate reading.
 
yeah, I don't think my measurements are right on the exhaust side. I looked at it again this morning and I'm not sure what the heck I'm doing wrong. Honestly, I don't think you can't get a proper measurement going from the middle of the cylinder. I think you really need to take off the rad hoses to measure the exhaust side. I took it down to the dealer and he listened to it and said it sounds fine. He said I shouldn't need an adjustment until about 2000 miles if I'm not racing. He thinks the starting issue is just with the battery, I guess the batteries are the weak part of the system. He mentioned that he has the same problem every once and a while with his bike. While I had the head cover off I put in a NGK Iridium IX sparkplug CR9EIX. I'd have to say it provides a noticeable difference over the standard CR9EB plug.
 
Smart move! No offense to my fellow CH users, but tinkering too much isn't always a good thing. If your valves were that far out of spec, you would have surely noticed a performance drop and lots of top end noises. Glad you didn't start dismantling everything before you got a second opinion. :thumbsup:
 
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