• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

11' 630 Cam Chain Tensioner, HELP!

MASTER_E

MASTER_E

Husqvarna
C Class
So I thought I'd be crafty and pull the cam chain tensioner to see what click I'm at... Come to find out after pulling it and destroying my gasket that it doesn't use clicks at all. It has a flat head adjustment screw behind the center 8mm bolt and when I gave it a tiny twist the tensioner moved, quite a bit...

So, how exactly should I put this back together? I'd imagine I withdraw the tensioner enough to get it bolted back on but then what do I adjust the tensioner to? I scoured over the inglese version of the manual that comes on the thumb drive and found nothing... Start it up and twist the screw until you it stops slapping then go another quarter turn??? :D HELP!

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:excuseme:
 
Did you measure/mark its extension before you gave it a twist? Looks like we have manual adjusters on our 630's. I am a fan of the mcct. Thank you for looking in to this for the rest of us.
Edit: I would eyeball the adjustment back to where you think it was and count the turns it takes from full out to where it needs to go. Reinstall and turn the adjust back the correct amount. Start up the motor and slowly turn out (presumably) the adj. screw untill you hear the chain making noise, then slowly turn it back in untill the slapping stops.
 
XLEnduroMan said:
Did you measure/mark its extension before you gave it a twist? Looks like we have manual adjusters on our 630's. I am a fan of the mcct. Thank you for looking in to this for the rest of us.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I did not... I didn't know what it was going to do and when I turned it and felt it move I immediately thought "Oh hell..." and got another beer to help diffuse the situation :) I know I know complete rookie mistake... Never played with one of these things before though... Now I know what not to do next time...

I was going to call my dealer tomorrow and see what they can tell me. Good to know its a manual adjuster; now I need to know how to adjust it...
 
I have it pretty close to where it was but know its not exact. I need to make a gasket for it and haven't any basket stock so I'll monkey with it tomorrow.

The whole reason I took it off was to see how my cam chain is doing. I image its still okay, especially being DOHC and all but haven't a clue yet. I've read about some that last 15k+ and others that last 3k and want to see if mine is still in spec.
 
With a mcct our cam chains will last a very long time. The 630's probably will not need a cam chain untill it is top end rebuild time. Husky did good and upgraded the acct that was causing the 610's premature wear. I am sure yours is fine.
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Much like enduroman suggested. Back it off about half a turn, or two of those " tiny twists" to get it on the slack side then install it. Run it back in until you feel it touch. Start the motor and run it in and out and listen for the slap to come and go. Bassically, you just want to get the slap out.
 
The 630 has an automatic tensioner. To remove you turn screw clockwise to remove spring tension before unbolting from engine. Turn counterclockwise to preload after reinstalling tensioner. This info is from service manual.
 
willie said:
The 630 has an manual tensioner. To remove you turn screw clockwise to remove spring tension before unbolting from engine. Turn counterclockwise to preload after reinstalling tensioner. This info is from service manual.
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Fixed it for ya.
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willie said:
IT is an automatic tensioner! The screw is just for unloading spring for removeall. No adjustments needed after tensioner is installed.
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My apologies sir, I stand corrected.

That night I only moved the screw a tiny bit, I never tried to back it all the way out until last night. It is an AUTO tensioner of sorts. I started to count the turns as I retracted the tensioner and at about 3 it sprung back to where it originally was.

Once I got it back on though and started adjusting it you do need to turn the screw to extend the tensioner some. I could still feel the slapping from the chain when I let it extend to where it wanted to be. So I guess its an automatically manual tensioner
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This tensioner has me confused as well. The workshop manuals extensive coverage of the topic is:
"Release the chain tensioner (1) using a screwdriver (turn counter clockwise)."

Now, after reinstalling mine, there is no releasing the thing, it does that automatically as there is spring pressure forcing it to turn counter clockwise by itself, no manual intervention needed there...so I'm not sure what the manual is on about.

Further to that, you can keep turning the tensioner counter clockwise using a screw driver for almost a full turn until there is significant resistance. To me it feels like there is a lot of slack in the timing chain if I just leave the tensioner under it's spring pressure alone, rather than manually turning it counter clockwise maybe a half or quarter turn.

Can anyone offer some tips on how to reinstall and adjust this thing, just bolt it on and leave the spring pressure to do it's thing, which is what the shop manual seems to imply?
That doesnt feel right to me, but then, I wouldn't know :)
 
Bolt it on, let it forward slowly, and leave it at spring pressure, it will find it's natural tension. DO NOT add additional turns or you will stretch your chain prematurely. It's just like the tensioner on a lot of Jap bikes. It may seem a bit loose until you fire it up and it settles in.
 
RDTCU said:
Bolt it on, let it forward slowly, and leave it at spring pressure, it will find it's natural tension. DO NOT add additional turns or you will stretch your chain prematurely. It's just like the tensioner on a lot of Jap bikes. It may seem a bit loose until you fire it up and it settles in.
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Thanks mate, I'll do just that.
 
I wonder if this (apparently upgraded) cct could be installed in a TE610 for preventative maintenance? I imagine that the 'ratchet steps' (if this type of cct functions in a similar way) are smaller steps, or may function better in some other way...
 
I've just pulled all the gubbins out of my ACT and stuck a bolt through the housing, making it an MCT. Cheap, simple, effective.
 
I've got a suspect acct here today Flynn and am looking at converting it to mcct.

Is it reversable ie easy enough to reassemble if it doesn't solve the noise problem?
 
Yes it is. It is all very straight forwards in there. I used an 80mm long m6 bolt and then a locknut to hold it with two additional nuts locked together on the end.
 
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