• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'10 TE310 first 500 mi

D

Da Prez

Husqvarna
AA Class
After picking up my 310 at the end of April and doing a couple of local rides, a turkey run, and then 5 days of riding in the UP of Michigan, I have a couple of issues with the bike:

Engine - Spark arrester in, cat conv out, stupid air filter restriction out,but I have the O2 sensor in. The dealer I bought it from (great folks at Toy Tech in PA, BTW) did some remapping at prep. I like the motor alot, but cruising along on open sections, decreasing throttle or chopping the throttle, I'll get some popping out the exhaust. A bit too lean perhaps? I did get around 55 miles on the stock tank of gas.

Suspension - Biggest concern for me. I'm 175-180 lbs, and the forks are real skitterish on rocks or roots.I believe they're packing midstroke. I've got the compression down to 3 clicks before full soft. Judging by the dirt on the lower fork legs, I still have 2-3 inches before bottoming.
Too much oil in the forks or am I looking at a revalve are my choices I guess.
I have less issue with the shock until I go to extremes on the fork settings which then puts the bike out of balance.
I did set the sag when brand new but I do need to check it again now that it's broken in.
 
With my JD Jetting power surge set by dyno, no O2 sensor, no catalytic, the less restrictive air filter cage, and the sparky in I am getting about 20 mpg on the trail and 30 on gravel roads. My low settings (idle and low throttle), which I use the most, are 15-17% richer.

My suspension seems ok on the mid settings (compression and rebound). Bike has almost 700 miles on it. I ride off road trails with rocks roots and hills, I suspect very similar to the upper peninsula sans the mountains we have here in WA State.

I am waiting for the Clarke Tank. 40 miles is too few.

After I get the tank and a steering stabalizer I will have the suspension tuned but that won't be for a year or so.

2010 TE 310. I am 185 in the buff.
 
My 09 450 sounds just like your bike. The way it runs, the way it suspends, just about everything. I weigh 160 before gear.

Shock broke in quickly and seems to be in the ballpark. Hard to say for certain because I'm still having fork issues. I backed both clickers all the way out initially just to get them to move. After 1200 miles they still seemed to have a harsh spot in mid stroke. So I took 10mm oil out of the fork and that helped a lot. Also reset the sag (had dropped almost 1/2" from new) and again the bike improved. I've got the forks set with two spaces above the top triple (was delivered with 3 spaces - wasn't twitchy, just too quick for my style). Hope that helps.
 
I think one of the things typically done with the forks is putting 5w oil in to replace the stock 7.5w (?). That and matching up the spring for the rider's weight. Those are the 2 things I've seen my dealer do after people have put a few miles on the bike.
 
Picklito;99627 said:
So I took 10mm oil out of the fork and that helped a lot.
Click to expand...


Ah!!! I was hoping to hear from someone that had a some success with the fork oil level. I had a buddy ride my bike and he immediately said the forks felt like it had too much or too heavy an oil.
 
I have the blessing (and curse) of owning a couple bikes, and "oil too high" is what kept popping up in my head. So I tried it. Helped. Will probably do more, just haven't gotten there yet. But I can ride the bike now.
 
forks

I ride at 195lbs, so Drew at WER did put heavier springs in and he made the beging of the stroke plusher because of all the deflection off of stumps and small objects these fork had. It's way better but I still don't like these forks at all. The rear shock also was done by WER and I love the rear shock. That's the best stock shock I have ridden on. I really feel that the bike needed a better stock fork than they gave it.

I left my gear alone because I needed the snap off idle to clear logs. The best mod was the quick turn throttle.
 
I ran the Enduro Engineering revalve on my 09 TE310 with .46 springs and it worked awesome for my 200lb carcass. In hindsight I still might have gone to .48 springs though.
 
09 TE310 here. Take the o2 sensor out. I thought my bike was running good, but took the sensor out after reading some other posts. Bike runs smoother, cooler, less off throttle braking, no stalling at slow speeds, and still about 30 MPG. Forks as others have said, less oil. I run 5 wt, 5 inches from the top, but the best change I made was adding 'air cells'. They really make it plush, IMO.
 
Picklito;99627 said:
My 09 450 sounds just like your bike. The way it runs, the way it suspends, just about everything. I weigh 160 before gear.

So I took 10mm oil out of the fork and that helped a lot. Also reset the sag (had dropped almost 1/2" from new) and again the bike improved. I've got the forks set with two spaces above the top triple (was delivered with 3 spaces - wasn't twitchy, just too quick for my style). Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

I might have different forks on my 08 TXC250 but reducing the oil 20ML (260ML now total) in the outer chambers was the ticket to reduced harshness in mid stroke ... Easy to do and costs 0... I also reduced the sag so my forks ride in the upper top of the stroke ...

Packing can be caused by too slow of rebound I think ...please someone correct me if I am wrong ... speed rebound up with enough clicks to make a difference you can see .. 5-6 clicks should do it ... U also may be too soft in the stroke and it is causing the impression of packing

And I don't know where you are riding but you are using an awful lot of the stroke ... U do want to use plenty of the stroke in the woods\ trails but maybe this is too much unless you are hitting some very big stuff or carrying alot of speed ... I probably have 4-5" of my stroke left after a ride unless I hit some jumps out there or something big ...

Be sure the sag is correct on both ends ... it is a must to start your suspension to working well ... and without it, most other ADJ will just be masking this initial bad setting...

PS -- What forks do you have? The 50mm Marzocchi dual chambers? The PRO racers are using these both on tracks and trails so they ain't all bad :0 ) If so, you gotta bleed the inner chambers of air and set the sag first and then you can dial them in with the oil and clickers ... These forks have a clip inside them making it very easy to set the sag on them ...

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3498
 
ray_ray;100393 said:
I might have different forks on my 08 TXC250 but reducing the oil 20ML (260ML now total) in the outer chambers was the ticket to reduced harshness in mid stroke ...
Click to expand...

Ah, yes. The ones on my 09 TE450, on which I reduced the oil level, are the other style... open chambers. Yes, I do think they're a good fork. Just need some tweaking. Thanks for pointing that out. We've got a couple different forks on these Hooskas now so we need to be specific.
 
Picklito;100609 said:
Ah, yes. The ones on my 09 TE450, on which I reduced the oil level, are the other style... open chambers. Yes, I do think they're a good fork. Just need some tweaking. Thanks for pointing that out. We've got a couple different forks on these Hooskas now so we need to be specific.
Click to expand...

Right ... I didn't realize they were all different till I got to reading some of these posts ...

The dual chambers seem to have an advantage over the open chambers but none of us are professional riders so I think all will work well for us :) .. with the dual chambers, U just fill the inner chamber up 100% and get bleed the air... nothing else to do there other than change the weight of the oil ... I think the inners are what control the forks real work as they have the valves also ... then you ADJ the oil amounts in the outer chambers to add plushness to the ride or keep them from bottoming so easily ...

I'm really a rookie here on suspensions and just learning a lot the last few months trying to dial mine in with the help from people on these news groups .. It has really been sort of fun and very productive ... But it takes time also... I've looked inside my forks now about 8-10 times ... but have made them work well with only $ spent on oil...

The really cool part is when you have made a change, you get to go test it :banana:
 
Ok, here's a interesting find.......

I'm in the middle of changing the fork oil level and what do I find, a 40 ML difference between the 2 forks! 310ML vs 270ML:eek:

So, what I think I'm going to do is bring the 1 fork quantity down to equal them out and see how it is.

Has anyone found this on their twin chamber forks?
 
You must have had a seal leak to cause the un-even amounts of fluids .... These are great forks for the shade tree tuner ... many options here we can do on our own ...

I was using 5wt in both chambers ... with the outer having 280ML .... I lowered the amount to 260ML and the forks got alot plusher ... I'm gonna try to remove another 10ML later and see if they will get even better ...

I'm about 140LBs before riding gear ... so I'm a little lighter than you so the 270ML might be a good starting point ...

The pre-load can be set while you are there also ... Mine is set in slot 8 from the top ... I'm riding pretty high in the beginning of the stroke ...

Also, the air needs to be removed from the inner chambers ... This link shows how to check for the air and remove it ... if it is in there, it needs to come out ...

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3498
 
RayRay, I look my bike over before and after riding it,and never saw signs of a fork seal leaking. A screw up at the factory?:confused:

Thanks for the link on the fork bleed. I've read it a number of times, but I haven't tackled that yet.
 
This is a new bike, correct? If so, who ever filled the forks made an error .... From my experience with these forks, this difference would be a somewhat major f-up in the performance of the forks ...

Do the check for air and if you don't see the dimples in the bladder when you pump the rod up and down, you could leave them as no air is in them currently .... Changing to a lower WT oil would be UR only benefit to opening up the inner chambers ... This is up to you ... If no air is in the bladder, U just leave'em and ADJ UR outer chambers to the lower oil amounts ... If air is present, it needs to be removed ...

Give this a ride and play with the clickers as needed ... My bike was instantly smoother after the oil amount was lowered and these few changes were made ... The oil WT would be the next thing to change ...

I'm not sure what oil WTs are in either chambers by default but I have read where 7.5 wt is used ... I went with 5wt and think 2.5 wt would have worked 4 me ...

Do you see the pre-load clips on the forks?
 
ray_ray;101982 said:
This is a new bike, correct? If so, who ever filled the forks made an error .... From my experience with these forks, this difference would be a somewhat major f-up in the performance of the forks ...

Do the check for air and if you don't see the dimples in the bladder when you pump the rod up and down, you could leave them as no air is in them currently .... Changing to a lower WT oil would be UR only benefit to opening up the inner chambers ... This is up to you ... If no air is in the bladder, U just leave'em and ADJ UR outer chambers to the lower oil amounts ... If air is present, it needs to be removed ...

Give this a ride and play with the clickers as needed ... My bike was instantly smoother after the oil amount was lowered and these few changes were made ... The oil WT would be the next thing to change ...

I'm not sure what oil WTs are in either chambers by default but I have read where 7.5 wt is used ... I went with 5wt and think 2.5 wt would have worked 4 me ...

Do you see the pre-load clips on the forks?
Click to expand...


It is a new bike, picked it up at the end of April. I do believe someone goofed in the fill process.

My manuals say 5W oil is used and there's no mention of 7.5W.

I have the forks back on the bike now. I didn't know about the preload clips. I'm racing an enduro this weekend and I'll see how it works. If I'm not happy I'll take your advice with the clips.:thumbsup:

The learning process continues.............
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top