• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

1/4"drive torque wrench

Bagman

Bagman

Husqvarna
A Class
Anyone know where I can find a good one? I would prefer a clicker that you can turn the handle to get a reading in NM & ft/lbs. similar to my craftsman 3/8". What are you guys using?
 
I have a Proto but a dial type not a click. Dial is more accurate and IMO when you are dealing with the small torques associated with inch pounds that degree of accuracy is important.
 
My 1/4 inch drive torque wrench is an older Bonney. They probably aren't even made anymore.
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gem said:
I have a Proto but a dial type not a click. Dial is more accurate and IMO when you are dealing with the small torques associated with inch pounds that degree of accuracy is important.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about dialing the handle & it doesn't click when it hits the value? or a dial similar to a clock?I have a pointer type 1/2" drive that points to a value, but I'm not comfortable with it's accuracy. I can move the handle accidently to any position including 0.
 
I've always liked the beam type with the little ball for a handle for an inch pound 1/4 in. drive torque wrench. You can watch to beam and get a better feel if the threads are sticking when you approach the desired torque where a click type would simply click and you may not realize the screw in under torqued. The other plus is the beam type never need calibration and they are the least expensive to buy. Here is a KD for $37


http://www.google.com/products/cata...JyTebYFYLpgQeinP0y&ved=0CEAQ8wIwAg#ps-sellers
 
Bagman said:
Are you talking about dialing the handle & it doesn't click when it hits the value? or a dial similar to a clock?
Click to expand...

I'm talking about a dial similar to a clock with a memory needle that is pushed along by the primary needle.
J6169F_mid_res.jpg
 
gem said:
I'm talking about a dial similar to a clock with a memory needle that is pushed along by the primary needle.
J6169F_mid_res.jpg
Click to expand...

This dial type in your picture is the same in function as the beam type and to calibrate you simply zero the dial before you start. These are excellent and I own them in several sizes but they are usually quite a bit more expensive. I was using them daily while building automatic transmissions. A home hobby mechanic could get by with the cheaper one I linked to and it is just as accurate.

The type I don't like makes an audible "click" when it reaches the setting and must be sent off to be re-calibrated. These click type are quicker for production since you don't have to look at anything just pull until it clicks but I have found them to be inaccurate at the lighter pound settings.
 
A rule of thumb that some people go by is that it is best to use a torque wrench in the middle 60 percent of its range for the most accurate readings. So if you have a 100LB wrench, it would be most accurate from 20-80 LBs. Having said that, the high end wrenches are supposed to be accurate throughout their range.
Although not as handy, I believe the beam type are the most accurate of the "less expensive" wrenches. Even the high end clickers can go out of calibration, especially if mis used.
There are a number of Chinese clicker type wrenches sold under different brand names with dubiuos at best accuraccy. If you have a cheap clicker and a beam type you can set the clicker to click at the torque you want by coupling it to a beam type with a female coupler, or two sockets welded together.

I have five torque wrenches, including three Snap-on and still find that there are times a different style would work better for what I'm doing.

You might just buy a Craftsman beam type to get going and if you want a better one, watch Craigs list and EBAY etc. for a deal.
 
You guys are going to love this, Harbor Freight! Needed it to reinstall the aluminum nut on my valve stack on my old KLX. It's a 20-200 in/lb clicker style that doesn't click, just yields when the required torque is met. Made in Taiwan, just like some Husky engines
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I have an electronic snapon 1/4 and 1/2 drive. They are nice, often to nice. You can fudge the torque with a clicker, mine will hold the last torque long enough for the the inspector to check it. Sucks when trying to line up a castle nut to get a cotter pin in and you go over max torque by a couple in lbs haha
 
Thanks guy's, I'm still looking & trying to decide. Electronic, dial, clicker, bar. geez, lot's of choices,thanks for your comments. Anymore? Kinda leaning toward the gearwrench but not sure about getting a used one.
 
Bagman said:
Thanks guy's, I'm still looking & trying to decide. Electronic, dial, clicker, bar. geez, lot's of choices,thanks for your comments. Anymore? Kinda leaning toward the gearwrench but not sure about getting a used one.
Click to expand...
If you use a click type to break loose a bolt it will screw it up and get it out of calibration so if you buy a used one hopefully the previous owner didn't do that.
 
Bagman said:
Anyone know where I can find a good one? I would prefer a clicker that you can turn the handle to get a reading in NM & ft/lbs. similar to my craftsman 3/8". What are you guys using?
Click to expand...

Could you not use the one you have with a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer?
 
johosjokers said:
His 3/8 may not go low enough
Click to expand...

Exactly. It will go pretty low but you can barely feel the click at about 10 nm plus it can be too big in some places.
lankydoug said:
If you use a click type to break loose a bolt it will screw it up and get it out of calibration so if you buy a used one hopefully the previous owner didn't do that.
Click to expand...

That's what I am worried about when buying a used one. I use my 3/8ths for torque only but when I get up to the axle bolt torques I wonder if I am hurting it. I do have a bar type for the 1/2" drive but sometimes get lazy & just use the 3/8" that I have already out.
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