denny
Husqvarna
AA Class
These are for Kawasaki KX 65/80/85/100/200 (98 - 05)
Made by Moose Racing
Somewhere among the posts here I noticed someone used some pegs for these bikes on their TE 610. They are not a straight bolt on, but the modifications are not too difficult. All I needed was a Hacksaw, a big coarse mill file, a drill, a grinder, Vise Grips, and the services of a welding shop.
I found these on closeout at Dennis Kirk.
You'll notice mine are slightly different than the current ones pictured at the moose site.
The peg mounting bracket on the brake side needs a little trimming. I just matched the radius of the other side of the mount. Hacksaw and file did that. A little piece of 1/4" keystock from the local hardware welded in the exact location makes the stop to prevent the pegs hitting the brake pedal or sprocket cover when they are pushed upward.
Top view of the new pegs along with the modified original springs. I imagine the springs from one of the Kwaks would also work, but I did this on a Sunday so the local Kawasaki dealer is closed until Tuesday. Besides those would probably be a special order item anyway. So I modified the original springs.
Label on moose package:
The brake side (one on left here) needs a little trimming on the rear corner where it folds up toward the brake pedal. Just a little grinding and some finish polishing.
I used these bolts that I sourced from McMaster Carr, and I added a 1/8" aluminum spacer between the frame and the brackets. I could have used a 5/16" keystock in the bracket and skipped the aluminum spacer. But since the frame and brackets are not very flat (even after quite a bit of filing) I reasoned that the aluminum would act like a crush washer and help out a little.
Brake side after:
Shift side after:
When I consider that I found these for about half of retail on closeout, I think this is a pretty good bang for the buck. These pegs are also slightly taller than the stock pegs so the adjustment of the brake pedal is enough to make me comfortable with that. I still need to find some decent snap ring pliers to remove the countershaft sprocket so I can adjust the shifter down a notch and hopefully that will complete this.
The original Husqvarna foot peg brackets are not very carefuly made. Both of the plates are cut on the same VERY DULL punch press. the left one has a concave surface toward the bike, the right one has a convex surface toward the bike. This combined with the sloppy welds where the peg brackets bolt to the frame make the footpegs not so strong. Even when tightened very tight they can rock on the frame since they are not flat. I filed the brackets as flat as possible and also filed the frame around the mounting holes until that was flat.
I think the fit of little detail parts should be better on an exotic bike.
What do you think?
Made by Moose Racing
Somewhere among the posts here I noticed someone used some pegs for these bikes on their TE 610. They are not a straight bolt on, but the modifications are not too difficult. All I needed was a Hacksaw, a big coarse mill file, a drill, a grinder, Vise Grips, and the services of a welding shop.
I found these on closeout at Dennis Kirk.
You'll notice mine are slightly different than the current ones pictured at the moose site.
The peg mounting bracket on the brake side needs a little trimming. I just matched the radius of the other side of the mount. Hacksaw and file did that. A little piece of 1/4" keystock from the local hardware welded in the exact location makes the stop to prevent the pegs hitting the brake pedal or sprocket cover when they are pushed upward.
Top view of the new pegs along with the modified original springs. I imagine the springs from one of the Kwaks would also work, but I did this on a Sunday so the local Kawasaki dealer is closed until Tuesday. Besides those would probably be a special order item anyway. So I modified the original springs.
Label on moose package:
The brake side (one on left here) needs a little trimming on the rear corner where it folds up toward the brake pedal. Just a little grinding and some finish polishing.
I used these bolts that I sourced from McMaster Carr, and I added a 1/8" aluminum spacer between the frame and the brackets. I could have used a 5/16" keystock in the bracket and skipped the aluminum spacer. But since the frame and brackets are not very flat (even after quite a bit of filing) I reasoned that the aluminum would act like a crush washer and help out a little.
Brake side after:
Shift side after:
When I consider that I found these for about half of retail on closeout, I think this is a pretty good bang for the buck. These pegs are also slightly taller than the stock pegs so the adjustment of the brake pedal is enough to make me comfortable with that. I still need to find some decent snap ring pliers to remove the countershaft sprocket so I can adjust the shifter down a notch and hopefully that will complete this.
The original Husqvarna foot peg brackets are not very carefuly made. Both of the plates are cut on the same VERY DULL punch press. the left one has a concave surface toward the bike, the right one has a convex surface toward the bike. This combined with the sloppy welds where the peg brackets bolt to the frame make the footpegs not so strong. Even when tightened very tight they can rock on the frame since they are not flat. I filed the brackets as flat as possible and also filed the frame around the mounting holes until that was flat.
I think the fit of little detail parts should be better on an exotic bike.
What do you think?