• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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All 2st 09 zoke fork?

fire1998

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just bought an 09 WR 300. Are the zokes dual chambered or open bath? They look different than the 50's on my txc.
 
fire1998;125943 said:
Just bought an 09 WR 300. Are the zokes dual chambered or open bath? They look different than the 50's on my txc.

They are the open chamber.

Later,
 
Honestly, I prefer the open chamber 50s over the closed chambers for the riding that I do. The CCs are too stiff and take too long to loosen up.
 
I'd like to hear more about what everybody's doing to their open chamber 50's to set them up. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones because they haven't leaked a drop since new. But they're a little stiff as delivered. I'm trying a few tricks but would like to swap ideas.
 
I weigh 185lbs. I ride the 2011 WR150. I went down from a .42kg spring to a .40kg spring to get the correct 40mm static sag and 75mm rider sag. Halls Cycles revalved my bike by removing about 20-25% of the high speed valving. Honestly mine work great. Mine are OC Marzocchi.
 
Dwight,
Any idea what they did to the shim stacks? I weigh 188 without gear and I was going to break my new seals in then recheck my sag but it looks like I need to go to a .40kg also.
 
No real idea. They may have removed a couple shims. But, I am not sure. They did a good job though.
 
I have had great luck as well with my open 50's as well- I had one seal leak due to a dented outer tube... I think that happend in a crash in some rock pile somewhere when someone fell in front of me- (shoulda used em for traction- but it was a dualsport)... Anyway delicately pounded out the dent and reinstalled stock seals- good as new. My third season/ 1 seal/ rider error induced. Though- My buddies 08' has seal issues but I doubt he sets up his axle/forktube alignment well- he's used to BIG 4wheel drives, prybars, and BIG HAMMERS.
 
Once the 50 mm twin chamber zokes are revalved/resprung they are pretty good- not perfect, but pretty good and certainly way better than the 45s.
I'm quite happy with the performance on my 50mm TC's. They haven't leaked yet (112 hrs), but I've also had a set of Dirt Skins on since new, which I think should be mandatory.
 
The open chambered forks on my 300 are incredible after a revalve and springs. It's like riding a Cadillac over the chop. Not sure what he did, but my buddy at pro motion suspension did them and I love it.

I also have stock dual chambered forks on a cr125 and I'm kinda digging them since they've loosened up a bit. I think they would be stiff as hell for anyone under 200lbs, but they work pretty good for me. I think these will be incredible after springs and a revalve.

No problems with either. 100hrs on the wr with one seal/bushing change and 10hrs on the cr with nothing.
I think the sachs and marzochi stuff is as good as anything out there from what I've experienced.
 
I've got the closed chambers marzocchis on my 08 TXC250 ... I like to do my on work as much as possible to save $ and learn a few things along the way if possible ... Fork work is not too big a deal but you gotta be careful with the parts, do not overtighten and strip things as most parts are small and light, and keep the parts clean ... I take pics along the way to ensure I get things back correctly AND you have a second fork to help there also ...

One of the members here suggested I try a straight stack because I have no extra shims to work with for openers :) ... meaning just align all the shims up top to bottom in size order ... I'm doing track and trail on my bike and in stock form, I was bottoming too much on the track jumps ... Adding oil can help on the bottoming but gives other side effects ... So what I have now is ~fair on the trails and ~fair on the tracks with just clickers to open or closed depending on where I'm riding today ... I also made a small mid valve change in conjunction to the CMP stack change ... No changes on the rebound side...

The Marzocchi manual states to put 320ML fluid in the tubes ... Mine would be very stiff and harsh 2x with that much fluid ... About 270-280ML is what I run in mine ...
 
The open chamber 50's are up in the 700ml range. I put mine at 130mm and that required 720ml. Those are some BIG forks.
 
What oil is everyone using, I used 7 wt Bel-Ray and they feel like I need to go about 10 clicks out on everything. Atf is supposedly around 8 wt
 
Had some Maxima 85-150 so I used that. Have also used ATF as mentioned above, and it works pretty good. One bike I tried it in seemed a little "thick" when it got cold, but only that one bike seemed to notice. I think it's a great oil to use while you're teaching yourself how to build and tune forks. It's cheap enough that if you try something, don't like it, and want to try again, you can dump the oil without feeling the $$$. Of course there's the issue that ultimately we should tune with the oil we're gonna run.
 
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