• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 09 WR 144 + Ducati Ignition?

LawnDartMike

Husqvarna
AA Class
I bit the bullet and had Bill order me the 2012 WR125/144 ignition because I just knew there had to be a performance difference when compared to the 'old school' analog '09 ignition. There was really nothing wrong with my bike and I'm not sure what my end goal was for purchasing the ignition (other than I'm a tech geek and love new toys!)

The bike: '09 WR144 with FMF pipe, new ring, thin base gasket, stock carb (RM needle) and WB PV spring (stock/silver installed) kit. The bike ran very well (ask Kelly) in this almost stock form.

After the install: It seems to run a bit cleaner at the very low revs but my butt dyno couldn't detect any difference mid-high. If there is a difference in FW weight I could not tell during the ride. The slight hint of a bog at mid throttle is still there. At kicking speed the spark is more intense so I don't know if the hotter spark may help plugs last a little longer or not. It did clean up the wiring - I don't use the stock (POS) speedometer so I remade the wiring harness with only the wires needed for the lights.

As Wally had earlier warned me, there just isn't enough of an advantage to warrant the purchase.
 
I bit the bullet and had Bill order me the 2012 WR125/144 ignition because I just knew there had to be a performance difference when compared to the 'old school' analog '09 ignition. There was really nothing wrong with my bike and I'm not sure what my end goal was for purchasing the ignition (other than I'm a tech geek and love new toys!)

The bike: '09 WR144 with FMF pipe, new ring, thin base gasket, stock carb (RM needle) and WB PV spring (stock/silver installed) kit. The bike ran very well (ask Kelly) in this almost stock form.
After the install: It seems to run a bit cleaner at the very low revs but my butt dyno couldn't detect any difference mid-high. If there is a difference in FW weight I could not tell during the ride. The slight hint of a bog at mid throttle is still there. At kicking speed the spark is more intense so I don't know if the hotter spark may help plugs last a little longer or not. It did clean up the wiring - I don't use the stock (POS) speedometer so I remade the wiring harness with only the wires needed for the lights.

As Wally had earlier warned me, there just isn't enough of an advantage to warrant the purchase.

LDM, when you have time, pull your power valve shaft out where it runs on the governor. If that shaft is worn real bad it causes a hit sometimes. I went thru one already. Another thing you can do, is leave your powervalve cover off and use a swivel socket to adjust powervalve up and down little at time, in either direction, to make sure you hit the best spot. I've done quite a few bikes thru pm's and the hit was in the powervalve adjustment. Would you by chance ride with someone that would have same carb, but with the RB mods done, and you can try their carb once? The stock TMXX carb that Husky uses, is not set good for low but more of a mid to upper carb. You have to fool that carb into more bottom transition. The RM needle is a smooth & fast transition with not being a step needle.
 
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