• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 09 Wr 125 Bog/Performance Solved?

Yes, Preinstalled at Hall's. Thanks :thumbsup:

dartyppyt;129024 said:
Vinduro,

Have you put Walt's powervalve spring kit in ($60 Hall's)? I am using the stock/silver spring. It delays the powervalve and cleans up that mid range issue if the powervalve opens early.

I am running 12/50 gearing on mine.

Thanx!

Darin
Click to expand...
 
Vinduro,

Pop your pipe off and take your powervalve cover off. Look to see where the adjustment bolt is in the power valve arm. They probably set it in the middle of slot. Try moving the bolt in slot, about a CM at a time towards up. There is usually a little sweet spot in there. Mine is set about 3/4 way up. You should be able to tell the difference if you go too far. Also, this may sound nuts, but where is your back brake adjusted. I had to drop mine a little because with the wave rotors, the bike really stops, I mean real good. My boot kept putting the brake on slightly when I went to stand up or my boot would drag the brake. You may want to try a 47.5 pilot to feed the bottom till the main hits.


Darin
 
OK, Just checked it out and made no changes. The slot is very small. The photo on page 2 of this thread shows a gap above the nut. (white arrow). I have that much or a bit less BELOW the nut so it is up in the slot at least 2/3s of the way or more.
Damn those pipe springs are tough to get to.
 
As for the 47.5 pilot , I think the 45 is plenty. I can adjust it in a 1/4 to 1/2 turn if need be but I am running a richer needle than the 16-62. I am running a 17-61 in the #2 position. What position are you running your 16-62 needle in ?
 
Vinduro,

I was in the middle position #3 slot down from top. 60 degrees plus. Once I drop in the 50's, so far I am 1 clip richer #4 down from top. Your needle, I think should be 1/2 clip richer than mine. I am thinking that you should be 1 full clip richer than me because of the 144 and Wally's findings. PM me your address and I will send you a 1/2 clip shim to go up under your clip to try. Moving to a 47.5 pilot will equal about a 1/2 clip move as well and should help feed the mid a little till the main hits. It'll kinda seem like you have a 465 main in. What does your plug look like right now? Those pipe springs are fun to get to and remove, I found the best way to get to them is put our bifocals on (Humor)?

Thanx!

Darin
 
Do you think I should be richer than I am ? I do have a 16-61 needle borrowed from Wally, I could use this weekend. I will be running from 35 to 68 degees. Enduro starts at 8am and ends about 1pm. I will be doing suspension and jetting testing Saturday in 61 degree weather.
 
I think it will be time to switch to the 16-61 needle. You will probably go lean quick. I would start with it in middle pos #3 down from top. Your jetting is going to change with those temps so watch your plug.
 
I also installed a Power Now off for a 2004 RM125. I was going to put a Power Now Plus on too but it won't fit my carb. Testing Saturday.
 
OK, The bike has a dead bog at 1/4-1/2 throttle with the Husky Power up kit AND the 16-61 needle in the #3 position and 5.0 slide. I had the 460 main and 45 pilot. I put in the 17-61 and it was better in the #3 positon but still a bit of a dead bog. I went to the #4 position and it was better with a bit of a blubbery bog at the PV transition point. Now the pilot seemed a tad rich. I left the needle in the #4 position and dropped the pilot to a 40. Still may be a tad rich because it started on 2nd kick in 25 degree weather and came off choke quickly. That is how I had to race the bike. Great low end but felt like it needed a 5.5 slide if there is such a thing. I plan on sliding the PV adjustment up a bit more also. I only got a tad over 15 mpg on the bike in tight woods. I had hoped for about 18 to 19+ mpg.
OH, Does anyone have a Headlight unit for a 2009-2011 Husky they would like to part with ? My front end washed out once and I tapped a tree and smashed mine.
I think I am going to love the bike once I get the bog issue solved and suspension dialed.
 
I got my RM needle in so I'll be playing with the jetting soon but I had a question about my bike bogging from what I believe is the powervalve not staying open? I was hill climbing in WV in the top of the powerband and I let off for a second, dropping just a few thousand rpms and when I got back on the gas the motor just fell flat on its face. To me, that seemed to be the powervalve closing to far? Any opinions out there? Once I get the jetting dialed I will have to play with the PV so I just wanted some suggestions before hand. I was running the PWK at the time. I mostly run the bike on the bottom and had it jetted pretty well but I did notice my plug looked way rich and I've never changed the PV springs.
 
Sounds like the dead bog that I was refering to. If the RPM is up the power valve is not closing. I was accelerating down a logging road, backed off for a second and when I turned the throttle back on it hit this dead bog. Like a lean situation.
 
Wait till you get your needle and jetting down, then get the spring kit. I can help you install it and point you in the right direction to eliminate the hit.

Thanx!

Darin
 
Philbilly;130420 said:
I got my RM needle in so I'll be playing with the jetting soon but I had a question about my bike bogging from what I believe is the powervalve not staying open? I was hill climbing in WV in the top of the powerband and I let off for a second, dropping just a few thousand rpms and when I got back on the gas the motor just fell flat on its face. To me, that seemed to be the powervalve closing to far? Any opinions out there? Once I get the jetting dialed I will have to play with the PV so I just wanted some suggestions before hand. I was running the PWK at the time. I mostly run the bike on the bottom and had it jetted pretty well but I did notice my plug looked way rich and I've never changed the PV springs.
Click to expand...

If you look at the attached dyno data (courtesy of gsxr1000user) for a WR125 … if you had been pulling 9,000 up the hill and needed nearly full throttle for what you were doing then you dropped to 7,000 when you let off, you would have lost 16hp in the process. I would certainly expect the bike to feel like it 'fell flat on its face' or something close to that. Perhaps this is what happened. Fanning the clutch would have helped, but it chews though the clutch quickly.
 

Attachments

This might help some of you in tuning with the needles. A 6CHY16 needle is the same as a 6CHY17 with a 1/2 clip needle shim of 20 thousanths.
 

Attachments

:applause:
Good Stuff ! :thumbsup:


dartyppyt;130641 said:
This might help some of you in tuning with the needles. A 6CHY16 needle is the same as a 6CHY17 with a 1/2 clip needle shim of 20 thousanths.
Click to expand...
 
Got the extra jets, 16-62 needle, 16-61 needle, 17-61 needle and needle shims to work on the TMXX this weekend. I also have a Keihin 38mm PWK Airstriker carb to test also. Using Darty's recommendations on needle settings.
Probably more testing next weekend at the NATRA H/S in Westpoint, Tn.

This is going to be fun ********************************************************************************!
 
OK, Got the Mikuni running pretty good more testing next weekend before race. Used the 17-61 needle in #3 position with a half clip shim under the clip. Had been running in the # 4 position. 40 pilot, 460 main. I may experiment with a bit leaner settings next Saturday. (I now have a 16-62 needle to test) Let's see if it runs decent next Saturday. (If not the Keihin gets tested.) Adjusted the PV arm up a tad in the slot.
 
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