pvduke
Husqvarna
Pro Class
taking a break from riding this weekend and i got the buzz-bomb totally filleted for a big-time motor in chassis service. was suprised to find the upper steerer bearings were a slight interfearance or taper fit to the steerer much like the lower ones. and, the steerer was alloy.
they did require some coaxing to come loose but it was minor and nothing got boogered up so....
upon discovering this i let soak some penetrant where the inner race fits to the steerer tube. then i reinstalled the steerer top nut 'till the threads were flush with the stem. then i put a scap of 2x4 over that and gave it a few taps with a nylon dead blow. thankfully it came loose w/ any damage. i also made sure the race was not brinelled as well nor the cage damage.
i did note the steerer, which is alloy, had a swedge mark on it from the inner race. so i sanded the whole circumferance/area w/ fine paper then finer grades still to remove stress risers. there should be no defects on this steerer as it is alloy and is not as resistant to stress risers or fatigue failure as chro-mo.
lube bearings as usual and with a helper holding the lower clamp up and square reinstall the top bearing:
i used an axle nut removal tool for my f-250 as it was deep enough and the correct diameter for the inner race and in two taps it was on, being careful not to drive it too hard so as the rollers contact the soft race. here's a pic of the tool i used to drive the bearing but anything will work that is the propper depth/diam.
http://www.toolsource.com/12in-spindle-wrench-ford-p-70534.html
be EXTRA careful working with/around all, even more so alloy, steerer tubes. keep them defect free for peace of mind. i also greased the whole tube to prevent corrsion etc.
-kevin
they did require some coaxing to come loose but it was minor and nothing got boogered up so....
upon discovering this i let soak some penetrant where the inner race fits to the steerer tube. then i reinstalled the steerer top nut 'till the threads were flush with the stem. then i put a scap of 2x4 over that and gave it a few taps with a nylon dead blow. thankfully it came loose w/ any damage. i also made sure the race was not brinelled as well nor the cage damage.
i did note the steerer, which is alloy, had a swedge mark on it from the inner race. so i sanded the whole circumferance/area w/ fine paper then finer grades still to remove stress risers. there should be no defects on this steerer as it is alloy and is not as resistant to stress risers or fatigue failure as chro-mo.
lube bearings as usual and with a helper holding the lower clamp up and square reinstall the top bearing:
i used an axle nut removal tool for my f-250 as it was deep enough and the correct diameter for the inner race and in two taps it was on, being careful not to drive it too hard so as the rollers contact the soft race. here's a pic of the tool i used to drive the bearing but anything will work that is the propper depth/diam.
http://www.toolsource.com/12in-spindle-wrench-ford-p-70534.html
be EXTRA careful working with/around all, even more so alloy, steerer tubes. keep them defect free for peace of mind. i also greased the whole tube to prevent corrsion etc.
-kevin