250-500cc 08 Wr250 Leaking Kick Start

[David_D.]

Hey everyone, my engine is leaking oil from the kick start shaft. I’ve looked at several schematics and I can’t tell if there is a seal in there. Can anyone point me in the correct direction to get this fixed?

Thanks

 

[taps]

I think it is #21. Part number 800048209 - says it is 20*28*6 which seems about right. I'm sure someone will come along and confirm or correct.

 

[shawbagga]

Dunno but I'm interested in this too as mine has developed a leak the past few months. Not much but noticeable when dusty

 

[Hurky]

taps is right, it is a 20 x 28 x 6 seal :

I've got mine from a bearing shop real cheap. The OEM is a single lip seal that I replaced with a double lip NBR seal, as these are better to keep moisture out (pressure washer ..)

Cheers !

 

[shawbagga]

How do you change them? Pick old one out & push new one in!

 

[PaulD]

Hey Hurky where did you get that nifty clutch lever extension?

 

[David_D.]

taps is right, it is a 20 x 28 x 6 seal :

I've got mine from a bearing shop real cheap. The OEM is a single lip seal that I replaced with a double lip NBR seal, as these are better to keep moisture out (pressure washer ..)

Cheers !

Awesome! Thanks for the info.

Same question...Where did you get that clutch lever extension? Can you shoot a photo of that for me?

 

[David_D.]

With regards to removing the seal, I used a paint can opener and very carefully pried it out. This did destroy the seal, but there aren’t a lot of options for removal.

Now, on to the clutch lever extension. I decided to make my own clutch lever extension. You will notice that I offset the hole where the cable will attach as I didn’t have much play at all and with the hole further away, the cable wouldn’t reach. I have not actually installed this yet as I have to get some bolts and lock nuts, but I think it will work. If I have to make an adjustment to the hole locations, I’ll weld up the mount hole and re-drill it.

 

[NCSteve]

Hey Hurky where did you get that nifty clutch lever extension?

Somewhere in this 2T forum is a discussion about clutch extension with a couple different versions. Maybe it was the 300 love thread

 

[Hurky]

I build that extension myself some time ago, It's made out of a 2mm thick steel plate:

It make quite a big difference in clutch pull but there is a downside: You need more clutch lever travel for the same clutch pull, I mean, you will have less movement on the clutch plates for the same amount of clutch lever movement.
In my case I separated the two holes too much and needed to pre-tension the clutch cable quite a lot to still being able to disengage the plates without having too much drag. Later I filed the left hole to reduce this problem.
Now the clutch is still softer but I can disengage the plates fully without having to pre-tension the cable that much.

It's a cheap and easy to do part.

As of removing the old seal, In my case I did change it along with my transmission so the casings were separated, but using some tools like a screwdriver with a folded tip is also an option, you just need to make sure to not scratch the aluminum or you will probably have leaks.

Cheers.

 

[Hurky]

I would say that I even like the feel of a well lubricated clutch cable over the hydraulic stuff I tried (on other bikes)... But I do clean and lubricate the cable often.

 

[2premo]

I would say that I even like the feel of a well lubricated clutch cable over the hydraulic stuff I tried (on other bikes)... But I do clean and lubricate the cable often.

I have two Husky 360's with cables and a 2002 KTM 380 with hydraulic, the cable is smoother the hydraulic is more consistent
and I have a 2016 Sherco 300 that has a more modern hydraulic, it is sweet, so newer might just be "gooder"

 

[2premo]

and seal removal, a drywall screw and a pair of pliers works well