• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 08 WR250 Forks breakdown

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Can someone shed some light on breaking down these forks? I'm trying to remove the bottom nut that retains the bottom valve but after breaking the 21mm nut loose, it just spins and will not come out of the fork tube ..

Any ideas on what is happening here?

Here's a pic from the manual that shows the place I'm stuck at now ..

45MM_1.jpg
 
If you have air tools or an electric impact it will come right out. Do you have those tools? If its not spinning fast the rod inside will just spin with it.
 
bdl507 said:
If you have air tools or an electric impact it will come right out. Do you have those tools? If its not spinning fast the rod inside will just spin with it.
Click to expand...

Yep .. that's what happening apparently as I don't have an air wrench ... I'm gonna have to hold it (what ever it is) to get it apart ...
 
Thanks and I got it apart using a 100% BS tool I pieced together walking around the house and looking ... Not sure how I will get it back tight as the BS tool I made is really too BS for tightening I think ...

The 50MM forks on my 08 TXC250 do not have this hurdle to jump over ....
 
Here's the issue with removing the bottom compression valve ... It screws into the that inner tube shown here and not the housing ... That ring at the opposite end of the compression valve has holes in it and is the place where you must insert the damping-cartridge-holding-tool (R5081AA) or your own home-made tool so that the tube can be held and the compression valve removed ..
102_4389.JPG
 
Sometimes you can get them out by leaving the top cap on, flipping them upside down and compressing the fork while wrenching the base valve.

As mentioned above, impact is the easier though.
 
uranys said:
Sometimes you can get them out by leaving the top cap on, flipping them upside down and compressing the fork while wrenching the base valve.

As mentioned above, impact is the easier though.
Click to expand...

Compressing the fork sounds like the way to go for me since no impact ...That will be the way I tighten them back up...

I'll probably go back with ATV fluid .... The manual says to add 610cc of 7.5WT oil and 90 mm air volume... Are these numbers anywhere close to what you guys are running? I'll probably try to measure what was in the second fork since it had no leaks ...
 
Warning to those who use an air impact (I use one and have seen this often on this fork in particular). The base valve/nut assembly is quite heavy on these forks. When hitting it with air, the heavy valve/nut has enough inertia to actually loosen the nut that clamps the piston/valving to the basevalve stem. From the factory it is peened in place but can still loosen. If it's been revavled, it can become extremely loose or even come off. Check the nut upon disassembly or if you are experiencing sloppy damping after a disassembly. Easy does it the stem breaks easily, but the nut should be snug.
 
I have had them turn even when using an air gun. I made a holding tool by screwing a 8"x3/4" pipe nipple into a 6"x3/4" heater hose and forcing a 21mm 1/2' drive socket on the other end of the pipe nipple. The heater hose is shoved in from the top over the damper rod and into the damper tube.
It takes some of the mystery out of how tight the nut goes back on, because it can be torqued on with a hand wrench.
Forktooldelete006-Copy2_zpsbfca2745.jpg
 
Xcuvator said:
I have had them turn even when using an air gun. I made a holding tool by screwing a 8"x3/4" pipe nipple into a 6"x3/4" heater hose and forcing a 21mm 1/2' drive socket on the other end of the pipe nipple. The heater hose is shoved in from the top over the damper rod and into the damper tube.
It takes some of the mystery out of how tight the nut goes back on.
Click to expand...

Gnarly, sweet looking tool ... Got a patent yet? :) ...

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I inserted the axle back into the fork bottom and used it to compress the fork and the bottom nut tighten up OK ..;

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My fork only had 400cc oil ...Sounds like a low amount to me ... I'm going back with the same amount of 5wt fork oil and same clicker settings ... This 5 wt stuff looks like water almost ...
 
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