• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

08 emissions canister?

Vent hose update?

Muddy Waters;41295 said:
First off a quick disclaimer;

I believe the “correct” way to run the line is to reroute it (on the other side of where it is now ) straight down the front down tube along the other line that is already there possibly even splicing it to said (other) line, away from the exhaust, therefore if any leakage occur it will happen away from you
My bike is at the dealer right now for that never ending oil leak problem but as soon as I’ll get it back I will update this thread with a revised routing

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I just got my TE 610 last week and am about to follow these great instructions here. Any update on the revised routing of the hose? Any pics?

Just checking before I dive right in...
 
Hey Dinosaur
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new 610

I’ll be honest here; no I haven’t changed it yet nor do I have any problems with gas leakage
However since you’re doing it from scratch you should look for a Y shape splicer (they should have it at the same store you’ll buy the vacuum cap from) and run it down the main frame tube spliced with the other line



Unless it gets dark and you want to ride….:busted:

:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the welcome Muddy Waters and thanks for the tips! :thumbsup:

I'll try the Y-shaped splicer. The idea is to get the hose from the canister and the vent hose from the tank to hook up to the Y and out the tube that goes down the frame, right?
 
If you look at the front top right side of the fuel tank there’s two hoses coming out
Top one (thicker) goes to the left and down to the canister
Bottom one (thinner) goes all the way down the main tube to the bottom
Splice those two; just note the difference in sizes
Might be easiest to take the bike to the NAPA or what have you and show them the sizes of the hoses for the right fitment splicer :excuseme:

Have fun with it, it’s easy

:thumbsup:

Just thought of something
Maybe we should just cap the bottom nipple and get a little more fuel in the tank? :thinking:
 
An update

OK, I had a quick update.

I followed Muddy Waters' tutorial from the first post except for the last part.

Instead of leaving the top hose where it was, I removed it (including the green valve-tank thing) and replaced that hose with a 3/16" hose. I routed it in parallel with the run-off hose to the bottom of the frame.

I've read in other places that some people have replaced that hose with a breather hose with a one-way valve and that seems to work fine, too.

:thumbsup:
 
One of the hoses on the tank is a vent and will overflow when you top off your tank (after a short delay - like while you are not looking and hanging up the gas hose). The smaller hose on the '08 I believe is the fuel cap overflow, not normally a problem, but if gas comes out the hose, consider where it lands - hopefully away from your hot exhaust headers.

You need to cap that lower tank vent off and
1. Vent through the gas cap, or
2. Reroute the tank vent hose higher than the tank and back down somewhere away from your exhaust headers. I think the green thing might have been a check valve to prevent free flow of gas into the charcoal cannister. The output of the check valve can be connected to the hose that runs down the front downtube to the skid plate area. This ensures no gas drips onto your very hot exhaust header.

If venting through the gas cap, you can plug off the lower vent and put a check valve cap combo (as in a picture above) on the cap vent or run a longer hose without a check valve/cap if you like to the hose that runs to the skid plate, or into the steering head tube like many dirt bikes do. I do not like an unchecked tube into the steering head, if it fills up on a tip over or gas expansion, it has to go somewhere, and I am concerned it would "wash" out the grease in the lower stem bearing, and dribble down the fender backside onto the hot header pipes.

A check valve is good to prevent gas flow when the bike is tipped over. The only concern I have with this is proper air venting (out of the tank) when the gas expands on a hot day. I did a blow test on a SunLine aftermarket gas vent cap check valve and it does not pass air from the tank, only into the tank (to prevent drawing a vacuum when the tank level draws down. And it will do that! I tested this in the field. The 5 gallon IMS tank plastic cap comes undrilled.

One tip I read (Scott Summers at http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2...0&tier=3&nid=FE11D727959B4C2AA7906490B9DED4BD ) is to drill a small vent hole in the check valve to vent both directions, so you are limiting the flow now. Another idea was to stuff the vent tube with foam, such as the gas tank foam, again just limiting gas flow out, not stopping it, but venting both directions. I have not tried these yet.

- Mike
 
I took my smog can off about 3 months ago. Here's what I did with the hose that is left after removing the can: I put a coupler in it, removed the other hose that was left on the can, and connected them together. So basicially it is exactly the same as it was--it just has a small coupler connecting the lines, rather than the smog can. It seems to work fine. Is there a reason why I haven't seen anyone else doing it that way? Here's a pic:

4155359229_743a1aa9d2_o.jpg
 
Hey K7MDL...I'm a bit confused now.

There are two hoses:

Vent A: The top vent. There is a hose that was formerly connected to the green filter and subsequently the canister.

Vent B: The lower vent. There is a (smaller) hose that is currently running down the front downtube to the skidplate area. I think this is what you meant by the fuel cap overflow?

In my setup, I've now added a 3/16" hose to vent A and ran that along the front downtube side-by-side with the existing hose connected to vent B. Do you think that would cause problems? Should I add a check valve to it?

In your tip, you mentioned that I should cap off off one of the vents. Which one did you mean?

Side note: I've blown and sucked through both ends of the green filter thing but it seems that air is free flowing, no valve action at all :confused:

In retrospect, maybe I should have done what jckid did...it looks pretty clean :applause:

Thanks in advance, everyone.
 
I have an '07, but through reading around and looking at the shop manual, I understand the '08 has a top of tank internal vent (top left corner of tank near the tank bolt - what you call Vent A and has the green device) and a fuel cap overflow for when water or gas spillage collects around the base of the fuel cap/neck (you call vent B).

So we are on the same description. The internal vent will overflow if you fill your tank up near the top. Since the bike leans on the kickstand to the left, it (overflow) will happen sooner than you think. Tipping the bike vertical may allow the gas level to sit below the vent outlet apart from splashing, if you did not overfill too much. I had to grab my tank hose and pull it up and pinch it off the first 2 times I filled my tank.

Bottom line, at least one of the 2 hoses vents the tank, and you need to allow air in to prevent a vacuum, and minimize gas coming out to prevent fill up spillage, and reroute that spillage away from your hot pipes. If you choose to cap off the internal vent (whcih is what I did), then you need to vent that via the gas cap itself (if you have the right type of cap), and route it away from the pipes still.

The hose (Vent B) for the gas cap base (stock tanks only, not present on IMS tanks) would have no significant source of flow sicne it is draining outside the tank, so as long as it does not drip onto your pipes, it does not matter much what you do with it.
 
Awesome...my can looks like it will probably fall off any day now. Glad I know for sure what to do if it does go bouncing down the trail.:banana:
 
Oh hey guys, since y'all woke up this thread it reminded me that my little brother came to visit me a few months ago, so I took him somewhere safe and cut him lose with my bike.....
And as I'm watching him doing wheelies and stoppies I suddenly notice that fuel IS sipping through that same freaking hose that I have yet to reroute and it somewhat pointing in the general direction of the bottom of the engine...

So I'll say it again; if you do this, do it right and run both lines (spliced or not ) on the same side where they're coming out of the tank, all the way down so whatever comes out of them goes directly to the ground and not on your engine

:thumbsup:
 
Muddy Waters said:
Oh hey guys, since y'all woke up this thread it reminded me that my little brother came to visit me a few months ago, so I took him somewhere safe and cut him lose with my bike.....
And as I'm watching him doing wheelies and stoppies I suddenly notice that fuel IS sipping through that same freaking hose that I have yet to reroute and it somewhat pointing in the general direction of the bottom of the engine...

So I'll say it again; if you do this, do it right and run both lines (spliced or not ) on the same side where they're coming out of the tank, all the way down so whatever comes out of them goes directly to the ground and not on your engine

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

+1.....In the winter of 2005, I watched a fairly new KLR burn/melt to the ground because the guy didn't properly route his hoses after he de-californicated it. He dumped it in some sand and right when he went to pick it up it started on fire. Since we were far into the Mojave desert, all we could do was watch it turn to a melting black goo. Really made an impression on me.
 
Cool, just like on Any Sunday!!! Thanks much. Might just see if it makes it to it's 6 month birthday for the warranty to expire.
 
Yeah! Funny thing is we were just 5 miles west from the HUSKY monument (east of Cuddyback dry Lake bed)! After this photo op is when we came across the burning bike. A KLR just like mine (red one in the photo). Sad.DSCF0362.jpg
 
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