08 efi

[XLEnduroMan]

In stock form I have been getting 30 miles per ~.65 tenths of a gallon. I haven't gone more then that between pumps yet. I am holding off on the 3gal IMS in hopes RV Aqualine will be offering us something bigger real soon. I have talked to a well know CA Husky dealer and he suggest I leave to Lamda sensor in with the PU kit to maintain decent mileage. I will be leaving the sensor in if/when I power up my TE. IDK if my TE needs the PU kit. FI rocks!

 

[Nesbocaj]

In stock form I have been getting 30 miles per ~.65 tenths of a gallon. I haven't gone more then that between pumps yet. I am holding off on the 3gal IMS in hopes RV Aqualine will be offering us something bigger real soon. I have talked to a well know CA Husky dealer and he suggest I leave to Lamda sensor in with the PU kit to maintain decent mileage. I will be leaving the sensor in if/when I power up my TE. IDK if my TE needs the PU kit. FI rocks!

Interesting. I have been thinking about the Lambda bypass for quite a while. The sensor has four wires. As I understand it, the two whites power the sensor. That is, they heat it to it's operating temp.

If I have it right, the other two wires are jumpered with a resistor as part of the 'kit'. I also understand that if the sensor's signal is interrupted that the system will run in open loop, this is the sticking point for me. If you use the PU kit, then the sensor should be removed or if possible, powered up so it doesn't foul.

FI Gurus; can the signal wires be interrupted, say with a switch and will the Lambda still be powered?

XLEnduroman, unless you have this figured out, the sensor needs to come out with the PU kit install.

 

[jlk_250]

Interesting. I have been thinking about the Lambda bypass for quite a while. The sensor has four wires. As I understand it, the two whites power the sensor. That is, they heat it to it's operating temp.

If I have it right, the other two wires are jumpered with a resistor as part of the 'kit'. I also understand that if the sensor's signal is interrupted that the system will run in open loop, this is the sticking point for me. If you use the PU kit, then the sensor should be removed or if possible, powered up so it doesn't foul.

My understanding is that the power-up kit resistor goes in place of the heater so the ECU thinks the O2 sensor is not yet heated up and therefore reverts to an alternate map not using the O2 sensor.

If you install the resistor plug, technically the O2 sensor should come out so it doesn't get plugged up. Only a factor if you want to use the O2 sensor in the future. I'm guessing that the dealer was suggesting to install the power-up exhaust but leave the O2 sensor connected. That is, don't use either the electrical plug or the mechanical bung plug.

On my '08 SM510, changing the exhaust alone didn't make all that much difference. Disabling the O2 sensor made a huge difference. Perhaps with proper iBeat tuning as stock this would not have been true but mine was really bad stock and never had iBeat tuning.

 

[Nesbocaj]

I forgot that the resistor goes across the green/red, white brown,
on the bike side. The lambda side has the two whites

The question; if the ECU doesn't get a signal from the
lambda, via the other two wires, what happens? In the home-brew PU kit those two wires are left disconnected, so no input.


No input from the lambda, the wires jumped with a resistor that mimics the lambda's load, and the bike runs in open loop.

So I'm guessing: that the lambda CAN remain in place if the GR & WBr are connected as the heater on it would still receive power. And that the bike will run on the second map if the other two wires are not
connected.

I wish I had the electronics know how to test this. If it works then a double pole switch is all that would be needed to toss the bike into a second map. Maybe......

 

[palmczak]

I forgot that the resistor goes across the green/red, white brown,
on the bike side. The lambda side has the two whites

The question; if the ECU doesn't get a signal from the
lambda, via the other two wires, what happens? In the home-brew PU kit those two wires are left disconnected, so no input.


No input from the lambda, the wires jumped with a resistor that mimics the lambda's load, and the bike runs in open loop.

So I'm guessing: that the lambda CAN remain in place if the GR & WBr are connected as the heater on it would still receive power. And that the bike will run on the second map if the other two wires are not
connected.

I wish I had the electronics know how to test this. If it works then a double pole switch is all that would be needed to toss the bike into a second map. Maybe......

It is actually easier to think of the "power up mode" as basic, default ecu mode. It is just a "default" that the ecu uses when no feed back from the lambda (O2) sensor is present. (this is why the power up plug leaves them disconnected) "Power up" mode is just "known good" default settings. When the ecu is originally programmed they use a baseline setting that has little regard for efficiency (very rich) but will allow the engine to run.

The lambda (O2) sensor generates a voltage in the range of .1-1 volt depending on o2 levels in the exhaust. The problem with using a double pole / double through switch is the resistance of the wire (and switch) to the handle bar. (or where ever the switch is located) The fact that you are working with such a small voltage range (.1-1 volt) the added wire and switch will alter the voltage ecu "sees"

I am looking at placing a small relay under the seat or tank that would allow a remote switch but make the connection very close to the original connection and there for very little or no resistance.


Joe

 

[jlk_250]

The question; if the ECU doesn't get a signal from the
lambda, via the other two wires, what happens? In the home-brew PU kit those two wires are left disconnected, so no input.
<snip>
So I'm guessing: that the lambda CAN remain in place if the GR & WBr are connected as the heater on it would still receive power. And that the bike will run on the second map if the other two wires are not
connected.

The home-brew PU kit plug is the same as the factory one. Only a resistor.

Regarding a switch to enable/disable the O2 sensor, I think it could work IF you can mimic the heater circuit adequately. What does the real heater circuit look like? Just apply 12V and call it good? That would be easy to copy. Or does it regulate the voltage and/or current to maintain some condition? Would it matter if you were just heating it to keep it from plugging up due to being too cold? I have no idea myself.

 

[Nesbocaj]

It is actually easier to think of the "power up mode" as basic, default ecu mode. It is just a "default" that the ecu uses when no feed back from the lambda (O2) sensor is present. (this is why the power up plug leaves them disconnected) "Power up" mode is just "known good" default settings. When the ecu is originally programmed they use a baseline setting that has little regard for efficiency (very rich) but will allow the engine to run.

The lambda (O2) sensor generates a voltage in the range of .1-1 volt depending on o2 levels in the exhaust. The problem with using a double pole / double through switch is the resistance of the wire (and switch) to the handle bar. (or where ever the switch is located) The fact that you are working with such a small voltage range (.1-1 volt) the added wire and switch will alter the voltage ecu "sees"

I am looking at placing a small relay under the seat or tank that would allow a remote switch but make the connection very close to the original connection and there for very little or no resistance.


Joe

Nice, I like the relay idea. So your thought is to leave the sensor in place, cool.

Anyone know an automotive EE?

 

[PhilM]

Nice, I like the relay idea. So your thought is to leave the sensor in place, cool.

Anyone know an automotive EE?

Yep. Only aftermarket. I have extensive use and knowledge with the Big Stuff 3. I had it on my car when it had nitrous and now a procharger (Blower).

I was loking at the stock efi stuff on my 610 when I had it apart. I am not sure why everyone is so quick to by pass the O2 sensor. That is one of the most important featires of the EFI system. As a plus, I think that the O2 on the 610 is heated, which means it does not rely on exhaust heat to start measuring more effectivly. I am going to look at a stock injector and see if the pulse with and saturation can be adjusted. I am sure that it can be, but I have not looked into a program that does that. I also noticed that the fuel pressure regulator is non adjustable. This concerns me as you are flirting with disaster if you modify the fuel curve and do not compensate the pressure with it. If the stock regulator is not near its upper limit, this should not be a concern. But my first impression, is that the pump is a monster, but the regualtor is, at best, just adequate (sp).

Does anone have the spec on the stock fuel pressure?? I know what mine is, but I think it may be a little low...

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

from what I have gathered: its a narrow band O2 not a wide band- so it doesn't pick up much useful info- it definitely leans your mixture, but not in a completely effective way- with stock settings.

The autotune and the PCV would work the way I think you are thinking this system should work-$$$.

 

[palmczak]

The home-brew PU kit plug is the same as the factory one. Only a resistor.

Regarding a switch to enable/disable the O2 sensor, I think it could work IF you can mimic the heater circuit adequately. What does the real heater circuit look like? Just apply 12V and call it good? That would be easy to copy. Or does it regulate the voltage and/or current to maintain some condition? Would it matter if you were just heating it to keep it from plugging up due to being too cold? I have no idea myself.

Simpliest way to mimic the heater circuit is to leave it alone. Actually the O2 sensor uses a regulated voltage/current, The ECU does this regulation. This is why the power up plug is simply a resistor, because if the ECU does not see a load it will throw a code. This is signified by the blinking neutral light.

 

[AUSKY]

Ι have lost the story so far about the EFI thing, but i will have my own diagnostic tool pretty soon.
Could somebody be kind enough to sum up what should be done to fix the EFI function on a 08 (six days model semi 09) 510TE??
So far the consumption, stalling and the smoothness are my main problems.

If your bike was one of the early 08's they came out with the mapping that made the bike not so user friendly, running hot, stalling, 80 klms from a full tank, there is a new map available from Your dealer, I think it was $50 for the upgrade. The later 08's came with the revised map loaded in the ECU & they have a suffix of "A" at the end of the ECU code.
I have had this new map installed to my 08 TE510 & I have also had another tweak of the TPS settings, from the dealer via a Husqvarna bulletin & it has made a huge difference to performance & more noticably mileage up to 120 klm / tank & the bike is now running "Fully Sick Mate" HAHA.
I recommend it to all.

 

[Boreit]

So far the consumption, stalling and the smoothness are my main problems.

my bike was suffering from these symptoms for ages & with no solution in sight. then i started noticing it was getting hard to start cold & the fan was coming on when cold. turned out the temp sensor was reading high ( 165deg C ). i dont have the standard cluster. this was replaced & problems all solved, doesnt stall, fuel consumption is back up around 100k + per tank & it smokes.

 

[GoFaster]

Interesting in the fact that these are common issues/diagnostic routes one would take when working on a FI car.

 

[XLEnduroMan]

I'm guessing that the dealer was suggesting to install the power-up exhaust but leave the O2 sensor connected. That is, don't use either the electrical plug or the mechanical bung plug.

Yes, this is what I meant. The Arrow pipe and some EFI tweaking if needed.

 

[Nesbocaj]

Did some experimenting, removing the signal (black) wire from the lambda does not put the ecu into the second map, butt dyno results, and compared it to jumping the heater wires at the connector with a resistor.

I have added a LV can into the mix; stock map, pops and groans. Second map runs real nice!

Jumping the connections with a DPDT switch wired up to a 2.2K ohm resistor is my next task. I have tried loading the circuit with a resistor to see if the added resistance of the wiring and switch would make a difference. It did not in either map.

I have a connector on order to see if I can make this a plug & play type of deal. This will only work if the second map loads when the signal and ground wire from the lambda are still connected and the sensor is not heated..................

 

[Ex HVUK]

Did some experimenting, removing the signal (black) wire from the lambda does not put the ecu into the second map, butt dyno results, and compared it to jumping the heater wires at the connector with a resistor.

I have added a LV can into the mix; stock map, pops and groans. Second map runs real nice!

Jumping the connections with a DPDT switch wired up to a 2.2K ohm resistor is my next task. I have tried loading the circuit with a resistor to see if the added resistance of the wiring and switch would make a difference. It did not in either map.

I have a connector on order to see if I can make this a plug & play type of deal. This will only work if the second map loads when the signal and ground wire from the lambda are still connected and the sensor is not heated..................

It's an interesting idea but I have reservations about the effectiveness of the end result. The feedback setting requirement varies by anything up to 20% between having the lambda installed and having the race kit resistor, so you may be able to switch maps but the feedback can only be optimized for one.

Ibeat 2.0 allows you to adjust the fuelling without the lambda installed which I regret to say negates this idea as a fast set up routine.

Dave