'07 Te250 won't run without the choke on?

[Ron West]

Just found your website after picking up an '07 with only 100 miles on it! The bike was stored in an airplane hanger and I was told it was started and run about once a month. The bike runs (but rough) with the choke on but has soon as I push it in it want's to die.
I drained the old gas.
Could it be the pilot jet is plugged?

Thanks in Advance,
Ron

 

[Catang5oh]

I would say you are on the right track, this gas these days is great for causing this. Clean the jets, add some Sta-bil Marine formula and enjoy.

 

[dalecarlsbad]

Best bet is to pull the carb off, strip it down to clean & inspect. I would remove and replace the jets (cheap enough) and install an after market mixture screw for easy adjustment. You might want to research the recommended jets to use before purchasing new ones.

 

[Ron West]

I would say you are on the right track, this gas these days is great for causing this. Clean the jets, add some Sta-bil Marine formula and enjoy.

Thanks, I have already run a can of "Seafoam" through the bike. The stuff works miracles. I pulled the main and the pilot jet off the bike last night and the pilot was completely plugged. I'm amazed the bike ran at all.
Once I did that, it will run without the choke on, but it doesn't want to idle and still runs rough.

 

[Ron West]

Best bet is to pull the carb off, strip it down to clean & inspect. I would remove and replace the jets (cheap enough) and install an after market mixture screw for easy adjustment. You might want to research the recommended jets to use before purchasing new ones.

Ok, I'll pull the carb this AM. Thanks,
Any tricks to making pulling the carb easier? I downloaded the manual, but I only saw how to pull the whole engine, not just the carb.

 

[Dirtdame]

Don't forget to use compressed air and blow through all the jet passageways (while the jets are removed) in the carb body when you clean it. Those pilot circuit passageways are extra tiny and can get clogged right along with the pilot jet.

The best way to keep your bike starting well every time after you get the carb cleaned out completely, is to drain the float bowl right after each ride. I use the Stabil Marine formula in my fuel, but I still drain the carb after each ride. Works like a charm.

 

[Ron West]

Thanks I will! Are there any tricks to removing the carb? I tried reading the manual, but I get "lost in translation"!

 

[Dirtdame]

I haven't had to remove the carb on my bike yet, but on similar types of set ups, I usually remove the throttle cables from the throttle housing on the bars first, then remove them from the mechanism on the carb. I use a large screw driver as a lever against the frame, (be careful not to poke anything or pinch any wires) to push the airbox boot back after loosening the the intake and airbox boot clamps. Sometimes, I wrap the screw driver in a towel, so that it won't mar the frame paint. On your bike, you could always remove the muffler, then unbolt the rear subframe and tip it back to give you a little more room to work with.

 

[Ron West]

I haven't had to remove the carb on my bike yet, but on similar types of set ups, I usually remove the throttle cables from the throttle housing on the bars first, then remove them from the mechanism on the carb. I use a large screw driver as a lever against the frame, (be careful not to poke anything or pinch any wires) to push the airbox boot back after loosening the the intake and airbox boot clamps. Sometimes, I wrap the screw driver in a towel, so that it won't mar the frame paint. On your bike, you could always remove the muffler, then unbolt the rear subframe and tip it back to give you a little more room to work with.

Thanks! I'll give it a go!
I just got the bike this week. Almost stole it. Interesting history for a bike with only 100 miles on it.
It was given to a comedian at an awards show as some kind of promotion and has been in storage for years. I think it was run from time to time, but from the looks of the jets, I do need to pull the carb.

 

[waserman]

I'm not sure what exactly the inside of your particular carb looks like, but I would caution that if you use carb cleaner be careful of plastic or rubber components that are still installed in the carb, because some of the cleaners (chemicals) out there for cleaning carburators, will melt the plastic or composites and damage or destroy the rubber.

 

[Slowpoke]

You can use carb cleaner on these bikes without issue or worry of harming anything. Your carb needs to be completely cleaned & while you have it out just save yourself a bunch of time and install a JD jet kit and an extended fuel screw.

It is a lot easier to remove the carb if you remove the muffler and upper subframe bolt & tilt the subframe back a bit which will pull the airboot back, giving you more room.
Also, pull the starter off(disconnect battery first). It only takes 2 minutes to remove & makes removing the carb on the 250 a lot easier.
When reassembling, spray liberal amounts of WD40 on the carb ends and in the airboots & intake sealing areas. That's the single best thing to make the carb slide back into place easily.

 

[Runner]

Damn I wanted to buy this bike! You beat me to it. Good luck with it.

There is a bike shop on Lyons Ave in Santa Clarita, Pit Pro, that does a lot dirt bike of carb cleaning. I'd take it there. Ask for Alex.

 

[CJBROWN]

In many cases a pilot jet cannot be completely cleaned out so a replacement is a cheap and quick cure. And you don't have to do all the carb pulling and jetting and all that crap. If it ran good before just turn the carb, remove the plug on the bottom of the carb, and replace the pilot jet. Sometimes that green goo will sit in the bottom of the bowl so it's doesn't hurt to remove it and check for crap. If it is dirty then that might be the time to decide to do a complete carb disassembly.

My kid's WR250F is doing the same thing after sitting a few weeks in the garage. It got fuel preservative and my KTM did not, but his is the one that plugged. Go figure. Just a big PITA with this garbage fuel we get now.

 

[Slowpoke]

In many cases a pilot jet cannot be completely cleaned out so a replacement is a cheap and quick cure. And you don't have to do all the carb pulling and jetting and all that crap. If it ran good before just turn the carb, remove the plug on the bottom of the carb, and replace the pilot jet. Sometimes that green goo will sit in the bottom of the bowl so it's doesn't hurt to remove it and check for crap. If it is dirty then that might be the time to decide to do a complete carb disassembly.

My kid's WR250F is doing the same thing after sitting a few weeks in the garage. It got fuel preservative and my KTM did not, but his is the one that plugged. Go figure. Just a big PITA with this garbage fuel we get now.

I respectfully disagree. In my experience, an air compressor with air gun and carb cleaner/solvent will clear any clogged pilot jet, short of one that's soldered closed. If the gunk was soft/pliable enough to be pulled in by engine vacuum, it will absolutely be cleared after a soak in solvent and a 125psi air blast.
Chances are if the pilot and/or main is plugged, the carb may as well be pulled & thoroughly cleaned(unless you're doing this trailside), as there's about a 100 other places that gunk can get into, only to cause you more grief 10 minutes later, or next ride, or?

 

[CJBROWN]

I don't disagree that a thorough cleaning isn't suggested. However pilot jets have smaller orifices and due to their length can be difficult to get throughly clean unless you soak them like you say. For a quick fix a new one will usually do the trick. BTDT many times.

Just trying to help the guy get back on the trail.

 

[Ron West]

Damn I wanted to buy this bike! You beat me to it. Good luck with it.

There is a bike shop on Lyons Ave in Santa Clarita, Pit Pro, that does a lot dirt bike of carb cleaning. I'd take it there. Ask for Alex.

Yea, I almost didn't call on the bike 'cause I thought something must be wrong with the mileage so low. Oh, DMV wanted over $800 in back fees! The registration expired in '07.
I'm in Southern Orange county so Santa Clarita is a bit far but I appreciate the info.

 

[Ron West]

You can use carb cleaner on these bikes without issue or worry of harming anything. Your carb needs to be completely cleaned & while you have it out just save yourself a bunch of time and install a JD jet kit and an extended fuel screw.

It is a lot easier to remove the carb if you remove the muffler and upper subframe bolt & tilt the subframe back a bit which will pull the airboot back, giving you more room.
Also, pull the starter off(disconnect battery first). It only takes 2 minutes to remove & makes removing the carb on the 250 a lot easier.
When reassembling, spray liberal amounts of WD40 on the carb ends and in the airboots & intake sealing areas. That's the single best thing to make the carb slide back into place easily.

Thanks! Good info to know.

 

[HuskyQ]

Just found your website after picking up an '07 with only 100 miles on it! The bike was stored in an airplane hanger and I was told it was started and run about once a month. The bike runs (but rough) with the choke on but has soon as I push it in it want's to die.
I drained the old gas.
Could it be the pilot jet is plugged?

Thanks in Advance,
Ron

I think everyone here is on right track. I'd bet a million a needle/jet has a little white crusty residue at the end (ethanol and water). I have to pull my snow blower and lawnmowers carbs beginning of each season to clean them out. They wont run without the choke on, and barley run (rough) without choke. Let us know if that was the fix.

 

[Ron West]

I think everyone here is on right track. I'd bet a million a needle/jet has a little white crusty residue at the end (ethanol and water). I have to pull my snow blower and lawnmowers carbs beginning of each season to clean them out. They wont run without the choke on, and barley run (rough) without choke. Let us know if that was the fix.

Ok, I'll give that a try this evening. I ended up adjusting the idle and, I'll be damn if it didn't help a ton. The bike still has some hesitation here and there, but I was able to ride it to the local auto parts store (in the rain......FUN!....... ok, I live in So Cal so rain is an anomaly) and picked up some more Seafoam. The stuff works miracles. But, I still think I'll dig into the carb. I don't want to be on the trail and have an errant piece of old junk floating around ruin my ride.

 

[Philbilly]

With my experience as a mechanic, I've been able to clean even the worst clogged jets (a small strand of wire is usually necessary), but replacing the jets is a whole lot quicker and easier. Also, I've found de-greaser like purple power, etc does a much better job cleaning carb bowls of that green film/tarnish and it's easier on any rubber parts. De-greaser/cleaner, a tooth brush and good rinse with water works wonders on "modern day fuel fuel gone bad problems."