• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

07' Te250 Valve check question

Ron West

Ron West

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi All,
I've got about 1700 miles (mostly trail, but I'm on the road about 30 road miles to and from the trail.

I measured: the Intake at .004 for the left and .003 for the right
On the exhaust side I measured: .006 for the left and .005 for the right.

Seems they are on the tight side. Is it typical for one side to be different than the other. Should I go for a larger gap on all, or just the ones that are out of spec?

Oh, and stupid question, the intakes are toward the back right?????
 
Yeah, they are a little tight and each side or each valve is its own entity, they can end up with different gaps. Check your manual for the exact numbers. See if you can locally borrow someone's kit of shims that has many sizes, get a micrometer and measure the shims coming out and the ones going back in, in my kit, I've found the shims are not exactly the size that they are marked.

Yes, valves closest to carb are intake, valves closest to exhaust are exhaust.
 
That sounds tight to me. Too loose is better than too tight. The last thing you want is to have a valve that lets high temp/pressure gas to leak past the seat. That will burn a valve very quickly.
 
Thanks, that's what I figured. I looked at shim kits and they are about $90 bucks. I think I'll get them one at a time for now. How do you calculate the correct size? I looked at my manual and I couldn't find what the stock thickness shim was. I know I need thinner but, how do you determine the correct size?
 
Most stock shims are 2.35mm, but not all ! The shims are lasered with the dimension if you look closely.
 
Ok, got the shims measured from the bike and the intakes were 2.3mm and the exhaust were 2.25. I went to a Husky dealer today (checked out the new bikes, pretty, but I'll keep my '07!). Now I think I got them a little too loose.
My intakes are now .18 and .15 (supposed to be a max of .15) and my exhaust are .18 and .23 (supposed to be a max of .20).
I understand from the form you are better off loose than tight, but did I go too far?

Thanks
Roj
 
I always try to get mine in the middle of the range in the manual.

Did you measure the shims that you bought or did you buy some going by the numbers on the shim?
 
The kid at the store did the math and measured them. I think the problem was I measured the gap in inches, then we converted to mm to figured out the difference, converted back to inches! Actually, I think I was the one who messed up, I told him I wanted on the loose end of the range. I'm not sure how accurate my micrometer is either, I got a cheap digital one from Harbor freight. Also, I was a bit pissed at myself for not asking the price. I had checked online and individual shims are a few dollars. When he rang me up I was out $30 bucks. Jeez, that's a 1/3 the cost of a whole kit. Live and learn.

I think I'll try using a two of my old shims that were slightly thinner (per my micrometer) and see how they measure up.
 
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