• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

04 te450

monchopper

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi All
I'm just getting back into trail riding after a few years out with the kids etc. I found a low mileage 04 Te450 for a good price. Did some research and found these bikes are have a good reputation so I bought the bitch.

I'm trying to find as much info of these as possible.

Any advice would be good. I heard the factory jetting isn't great.
I ride at sea level what jetting should I start with?
What oil is best?
I read the 04's may have had a clutch basket issue?
Sprocket combos. I live 40miles of motorway from the nearest lanes.

Any info on performance mods to try is very much appreciated.

cheers
 
This was the 100 year anniversary model. They are reliabe and robust if treated with normal care and maintenance. The clutch baskets were updated in 05, however normal trail riding etc. will probably not cause any issues at all. The same process applied to the kick starter. Once again they get little use because of the electric leg. The bike is sound with quality components and build. It has heaps of urge and will lug well. The only issue they have is on the bitumen. They have a close ratio box and do not like extended 60 mph belts on the road. You can change the gearing on the sprokets but that will impinge upon trail ability. Best get a tow bar hitch or trailer.
As for oil, not going to open a pandoras box here (we all have our favourites ranging from top shelf full synthetic to diesel oil-huge price difference). Maybe you look to buy a suitable semi synthetic like a Bell ray or Motol (10-50).
I wish you well with your new machine.
 
Congratulations on (IMHO) the purchase of a very fine m/c. I've got an 04 TC450 that I got new from MotoXotica (plug for Dan because he's great). As far as performance mods, I don't think they really need much except for the usual jetting, hand guards, skid plates, rad guards etc. Not really performance mods but sound investments. The only performance mod that I can speak of is the LeoVince X3 system I have. I have the 1/2 system (Exhaust can w/ ends and half pipe). I am not bashing it because it did improve in throttle response, and a little more power on the bottom end but within 6 months of normal use the mid-section frame mount broke clean off and LV would not replace the failed component under warranty. Hopefully I'm the exception to the rule. I do still use it but had to have it welded locally. Otherwise a great product !
 
The '04's had valve problems. The titanium would wear off the valves and they would rapidly wear. The fix is stainless valves. Halls in the US supplied mine.
The other thing to watch is the starter idler gear. Pull the starter and check that all the teeth are on the gear. That part doesn't cost much but if the starter gear get worn that's a bit more $$.
As to the jetting do a search on Thumpertalk- it's a Mikuni and people posted info on their jetting. I have a 250 so it's not the same. Good luck! I think they're great bikes:thumbsup:
 
The rivets on the clutch basket can come loose over time, so you may want to check those out. One of mine snapped off but luckily found its way to the drain plug. Good luck and have fun!
 
Thanks for all your replies. Much appreciated!

I've done a bit research on various forums and it seems for the jetting of the Mikuni carb for the 2004 that most people have.
Main Jet between 175-180
PJ between 40-50
A needle that ends in "50"
AP set with no gap before engagement

I will post my findings once it's dialled in.

When I got the bike it came with everything I need to make it road legal (horn, indicators, mirrors) The only thing missing is the rear lamp. It has a rear fender that doesn't look like it was made to accommodate a rear lamp.
I'm now on the lookout for a 2004 rear fender with lamp and number plater holder

I can find plenty on ebay for a 2005 but not a 2004 and I understand the 2005 won't fit the 2004 Eg. ebay number 280407659753.

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on one for the 2004 model?
(Would prefer from the UK but willing to look at any options)

Or can the 2005 be hacked to fit the 2004?
 
With some very minor surgery, the 05 fender will work on the 04. I have one on my 04. Looks much better too.

monchopper;67427 said:
Thanks for all your replies. Much appreciated!

I've done a bit research on various forums and it seems for the jetting of the Mikuni carb for the 2004 that most people have.
Main Jet between 175-180
PJ between 40-50
A needle that ends in "50"
AP set with no gap before engagement

I will post my findings once it's dialled in.

When I got the bike it came with everything I need to make it road legal (horn, indicators, mirrors) The only thing missing is the rear lamp. It has a rear fender that doesn't look like it was made to accommodate a rear lamp.
I'm now on the lookout for a 2004 rear fender with lamp and number plater holder

I can find plenty on ebay for a 2005 but not a 2004 and I understand the 2005 won't fit the 2004 Eg. ebay number 280407659753.

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on one for the 2004 model?
(Would prefer from the UK but willing to look at any options)

Or can the 2005 be hacked to fit the 2004?
 
I'm also looking for a road legal tyre. I used to put michelin AC10 on my last bike but
I see from the specs that the rear tyre size is 140/80-18 and I can't find an AC10 in that size.
I can find a Micheling Enduro Comp in that size.
Does anyone have experience with this tyre.
Other suggestions for UK winter tyre (mud digger)
 
My favorite streetable knobby is the D606 Dunlop rear and MT21 Pirrelli front.
The valves are the biggest thing to worry about on an 04 IMO.
 
thumbs up

thumbs up to the Hall's stainless valves (and springs) very well priced compared to the genuine titanium valves.
Use a top of the line oil (Motul 300V or Silkolene Pro4Plus)
Engine oil even very expensive oil is much cheaper that engine parts
 
d606 is good all rounder... a compromise but ok... i use michelin s12 and bridgestone 404 on rear...soft but amazing grip in snotty stuff ! fronts, bridgestone 403...again, awsome soft stuff tyre... so get a trailer, ditch the road gear , fit a 50 rear sprocket and have the best time in the forestry !
 
I think D606 isn't going to be aggressive enough for the UK winter (mud and lots of it). I'm looking for the most aggressive road legal in the size 140/80. I might look at the 606 for the summer.

A few people have warned me on the Valves. Do they deteriorate quickly?
What should lookout for? Should I replace them even though the bike currently goes well and has good compression?

happy new year
 
A 140 is a wide tyre and will affect turning in the bush. I believe a 12/100 is a better profile. Wide enough to hook up well, narrow enough to turn easily and the 100 height is better at reducing pinch flats. Especially so if you need to drop the psi for mud etc.
 
As far as the valves go, check them every 10 hours or so. When the valves tighten up, the bike will be hard to start. I would wait until the valve clearances shorten up and then go stainless. (.004-.006) .006 has been my favorite number since I went stainless in 2005. Keep your air and oil clean and you may not have an issue. Have fun!
 
I've just noticed my new bike doesn't have a header tank?
Do I really need one?, I ride in the UK and chances of me riding in temperates higher than 30 C are slim.
There is a header tank for sale off a 2007 locally anyone know if that would that fit?
 
If your looking for a cheapish 140 -80-18 have a look at a mitas i think its a C 02 very hard wearing and lasts a long time
 
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