250-500cc WR360 starting technique

Hi All
1998 WR360 looking for the correct starting technique .
Stock carb with a decompression set up very low hour motor in mint con .Some days its every kick other days its a pain.

Also whats the reasoning to move to a Keihin PKW 39mm carb?

Thanks everyone

Good to see the 360 threads alive. Still have my 01 (no de-comp. head). Try putting it in 2nd and rock it in gear, slowly find TDC then a little past, then strong kick.

with a decompressor head you just kick
I have a totally stock 98 and a slow kick with foul enricher on for cold (choke) then a swift kick, starts every time
mine still has the Mikuni, no problems
had a 99 with a Lectron ran great easier starting but have to trim the airbag boot

Will use your advise and see what happens

Thanks ill keep testing

I like to rock mine back and forth a few times, like NvRider55. I do this with all of my 300cc and larger bikes and it helps a lot. Many will start first kick. You just need to figure out how many times to rock it because too many could flood it.
The Keihin will give better low-end throttle response. I have tried the Mikuni TM, Mikuni TMX, Lectron, Standard Keihin PWK and now the PWK with the STIC metering block. The Standard Keihin is an improvement, but the PWK with the STIC is next level. Makes the bike more powerful and smoother at the same time, has much more top end pull and is much broader, with no dips in the power delivery, similar to a 4 stroke. Has better fuel economy and is very smooth for fixed throttle positions on longer, open fire roads. Makes it feel like a modern bike. Not cheap, but worth it in my opinion..

such a KILLER motor....love it.

ok- here goes...

dead cold: choke ON, gas ON, tilt bike 45* till it pees JUUUST a bit then stand up, kill switch ON, rock-n-roll in 3rd (chuf-chuf, chuff-chuf, chuf-chuf) to charge case and cylinder, find neutral, comp release/kill sw. ON, gently slip piston just past TCD, comp release/kill sw. OFF, return start lever to fully upright and locked position, LEG IT LIKE A LUMBER JACK ( and only with MX boots on- only). BA-DINNG-DING-DING-DING....BAROOOOP

Wheelie away with a smile on yer neghibors face cuz he wishes he had one too.....it's not that hard, it's just "THE DRILL".

if it's over 75* cold satrt: gas ON, choke OFF, kill ON, rock-n-roll chuf-chuf two or three times in third, comp/kill ON, gently slip piston past TDC, ....etc....

warm motor: neutral, kill/comp release ON, slip piston just past TDC, kill/comp relase OFF, open throttle 1/4-1/3, leg that bitch. 1-2 or two of those and it's on.

crash/dump hot. turn gas OFF NOW. pick it up. clear chamber. wait a sec. clear it some more (ya got a comp release so use it)....same as warm motor but open throttle 3/4 to full. fresh air in is good and an open throttle increase compression.

carbs- unless the one on there is WAY out of the ball park, it don't much matter. what does is the propper turbulance/stoeicho ratio for a given temp/alt/BP, reed condition (if equipped) and....compression. i can start most DB's w/o carbs in 1-2 kicks and i only weigh 150# (while standing on a rock lol). Check you compression release button ofetn for gunk and do a comp test often WITH THE CORRECT SIZED PLUG ADAPTER. or else ya get false readings....

most importantly- take a note of what does and does not work. and test your CR! low compression is the #1 cause of hard starting on 2t.

360...damn what a motor! barooooop!

Anyone got a really clear electrical drawing for the electrical system? I have one but its all black and white and in numbers not colours .Thanks

do you have the original owners manual?
pretty sure its in there

Thanks I have an owners manual . Somtimes you find a full colour drawing on the net thats so easy to read . But I did work it all out last night so thanks anyways.