1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

Wheel Bearing Question ?

Discussion in 'Vintage/Left Kickers' started by 84scrambler, Jul 3, 2017.

  1. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    the distance spacer isnt the problem, after sliding out the spacer and foam, the hub itself is in the way of the viewing the outer race. the bearing must sit against the hub and be located somehow. the distance spacer is only to keep the inner races where they should be in relation to the outer races when the axle is tightened.
  2. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    all you can do and its what I do is slide a punch in through the spacer and slightly off set it so you can tap on the inner race and by swapping sides work the bearing out.?
  3. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    pretty much
  4. stormer254 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    England
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    More than I dare let her know
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yes!
    Warm it up and drop the wheel onto a solid bit of wood and it might fall out
    justintendo and wrx like this.
  5. wrx Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    845 newyork
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1973 to 1986 husky's various models
    Other Motorcycles:
    RM -250 / Buell / Penton 400 mc5
    Stormer has the right idea !
  6. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    I only ever need to remove them when they are stuffed so its not really an issue to "knock them out" via the inner race.
  7. 2premo Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NV
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    98 WR360, 1987 WR430, 1988 XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    Sherco 300, 2002 KTM 380EXC
    you can remove them without damage
    not that you need to,, as you can remove the outer seal
    but to remove a bearing the spacer has a foam ring, from the opposite side push it off center and use a puller, if you use a puller instead of impact you can pull it from the center race with no damage
    just FYI
    ajcmbrown likes this.
  8. Eric The Leg Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Currently Tacoma, WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400, 1985 WRX400, 1979 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    83 Kawasaki KZ 440
    I've got an inexpensive blind bearing puller set with a slide hammer (from Harbor Freight). Using it as designed is a royal PITA. I leave the slide hammer in the case, insert and tighten the puller/plug, heat it for a bit with a propane plumbing torch, flip over the wheel, set it on a bucket, grab my longest socket extension, put the small end through the center of the wheel, and then whack it with a 24 oz framing hammer. I've gotten 30+ year-old bearings out with a single whack (on my Kawasaki w/ alloy wheels, I wouldn't suggest going for a one-whack extraction with spokes). By far the easiest way I've found for removing wheel bearings. The wide side of the socket extension is wide enough to span the inner race, so you just flip the wheel insert the socket extension wide side down and hammer it to remove the second bearing. If the wide end isn't too wrecked, you can use a second/shorter socket extension through the center race of the second bearing to keep it centered.

    The slide hammer and one of the larger plugs can be useful for removing seals quickly and easily.

    It does do a little bit of damage to the socket extension and bearing puller/plug thing. The socket extension is cheap enough that it has only one job. The puller/plug can be cleaned up every once in a while with a file or cutting wheel on a dremel tool.

    Definitely replace the bearings and seals afterwards.