TXC 511 clutch drag fix...

Has anyone tried putting a spacer or washer behind the pressure plate to get the clutch to disengage better? Heard someone local is trying it. Said it took a few tries to get the right size. Just wondering if anyone can give any feedback on this. Wonder if it will help solve some of the low speed flameout issues...

No idea on that fix but I'd try different engine oil before I went that route unless something was milled wrong at the factory or something else along that line ... Some oils make my TXC250 drag so bad you can't hardly hold it back with the clutch lever fully engaged ...

My 449 drags too, no matter the oil. I think its a Husky issue.

Same her but only notice it in first gear!

Same her but only notice it in first gear!

It's oil, both viscosity and quantity. Even at 0w and 1400cc, my clutch drags for 5 minutes until warmed up. 10, 15 and 20 weights take longer to thin and will drag the clutch longer. The oil must reach a thinned viscosity in order to allow the uncompressed plates to float.

No effect on flame out issues.

yup I only notice it in first as well. It is more significant until she warms up then it lessens a bit. I've learnt to deal with it.

Its funny because I though for sure it would foul the oil with clutch debris, but my oil stays very clean.

Notice it lots on my SMR especially when cold. At 3000 mile service, mechanic took out and measured the plates which were fine. There was quite a lot of air in the system which was bled out.
Initial thoughts are that it was a lot better but not 100% sure as my 30 mile ride was with 2 pair of gloves on at 0*C!
If it continues he said they would take off the whole assembly and there is a clearance to measure behind. However to do this the whole engine has to come out

All clutches drag a little when they are cold. I noticed after abusing the clutch on a couple rides it has loosened up enouph that I can get it in and out of neutral when stopped at a idle. When warm with bike in gear it use to creep forward when revving with clutch pulled in. I'm not 100% sure why it stopped doing this but it might be the oil I use as clutch seemed to start working properly after I changed it, that and second gear starts on the pavement and slipping the clutch while hard breaking . I used 500cc of 10-50 and 500cc of 20-60 motorX full synthetic blended in the engine. I have no issues with my clutch , my bike has 650 miles on it.

Maybe try a few 4th gear starts . Give it a couple revs in fourth at a stop then start engaging clutch until you give full throttle while maintaining upper midrange rpm. If you see no improvement after 3 or 4 tries then this doesn't work.

Your clutch doesn't drag because of all the anti friction additives in your Motorex. Maybe you should upgrade to one of those oils sold in the grocery store

Have you seen what walmart has done to great brand name bicycle names like Mongoose, Schwin, ... .... Same as oil . When you buy real bike oil you get oil that's better suited for bikes and real bike oil comes from good bike shops not the auto store section of walmart. All the big brands do is make oils that generate more profits than performance. The additives in oil cost more than the bulky base stocks is why motorX and the rest of the bike oils are expensive.

So if motorX , maxima , golden spectrol, motul, castrol(junk) , shell(junk) , mobil(for cheep people thinking everyone else is getting suckered LOL) were all 5 bucks a quart with one would be a better value

You been drinkin' again methinks!

Haha

Interesting stuff...I hear Husky has a fix for stalling. Something to do with TPS. Will be dropping bike off later this week. I do use motorex oil, clutch drag isn't terrible, just wondered if it could be one of the causes of flameouts when chopping throttle at low speeds. Thanks for all the input

Read this tread. You will learn how to stop the flame outs.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te511-or-te449-dead-throttle-question.24276/