Too much slack in TLS front brake?

Need some help diagnosing. Set up is a '83 front hub with TLS brake plate, 40MM forks and OEM magura brake perch and lever. Both adjusters (perch and fork) have to be all the way out for me to get brake engagement. While it works, it seems like as soon as that front cable stretches, I wont have any adjuster left to take out the slack. I also don't like the flex you get when you have both adjusters all the way out, it robs braking power. The facts you need to know:

-Pads have almost 4MM of friction material left, so not new, but still ok.
-Adjuster nut is in the proper top position in the fork leg.
-I am using a new cable, but wonder if it is the correct cable.
-TLS adjustment rod is correctly adjusted.

Did TLS cables have different "travel" then the SLS cables?

If not, the only thing I can think of is are the cams in the brake plate the correct ones? I see there are different sizes and angles of cams across the Husky models. Would appreciate any available measurements or insight from someone who has a properly functioning TLS set up.

From the guys that ran these bikes when they were new it is pretty common hearing about adding a thickness around the cam or to the plate on the shoe that touches the cam. I think I have once tack welded an extra thickness to the shoe steel contact part. Definitely do need the perch and lever that have the most distance between the cylinder holder in the lever and the end of the threads in the perch. The Magura adjuster seems longer than aftermarket. I think the cables are just soldered to the ends. I never felt comfortable shortening a brake cable's inner portion. I liked the motion pro cables for the clutch probably just used the originals on the brake when I ran shoe brakes. I do not see anything but the stretch of the inner core and compression of the outer sheath to fret about. Well maybe bending/ routing factors.

Interesting, thanks. I suppose I could also lengthen the outer sheath with a spacer to get the same effect of taking slack out of the cable.

I have tied a knot in the inner cable in a pinch to get better braking after the cable stretched. But it sounds like possibly a wrong cable or something with the perch.

Shorten inner cable, heat bottom barrel remove solder pull through barrel, trim cable, weld blob on end of cable using a mig and resolder into barrel.
I weld the blob as insurance against the cable pulling through the barrel.
You can also manufacture your own fork adjusters using m8 long hex nut slotted and welded onto a bolt.

Food for thought.,,,,

We did brake testing on a flywheel weighted dynamometer when I was working on the disc brake development. The best lining for stoppage was the green gripper lining from www.mcmaster.com industrial supply. There is a very strong epoxy from silicone valley I use to attach the lining to the disc brake pads I'm testing on my cub cadet disc brakes. I haven't tested the green gripper yet. I'm testing a thinner lining to test the gluing process. It's outside getting wet for years now with no gluing loss at all. On the dyno we were stopping 9,000ft lbs with one caliper. Two calipers it was 18,000ft lbs.
You got me thinking with the front twin lever brake shoes how good would or how much improvement would the green gripper lining perform?

gripper lining wont help old mate bill, his cable is stuffed .

there is clearly a cable issue i think and the sls dls cable maybe the issue. part numbers to be checked??

BILL he's talking about drum brakes and you are babbling about disc brakes on lawn mowers. Stay on track man

Well I had to test the gluing process first. The tractor is outside in the weather. No better way to test it at home. Natures environmental chamber. Must be sure the gluing process holds up to the weather first. Sorry if I caused any confusion. My point is the next step is to try it on the front drum brakes.

Unless someone else gets you info before, I'll do my best to get you some measurements from my '83 this evening after work. We're a couple of hours behind you time wise, so will be later in evening.

Is your cable stretched? There is also an adjustment on the upper fork tube for the cable housing. Besides the levers that can be adjusted on the back plate. I would start on square one by inspecting the thickness of the lining. Then properly adjust the linkage on the back plate. I know some of this was said already I'm just going through things in my mind.

Here are some measurements from my 83 500CR TLS. This is an original Husqvarna cable with oiler.
Overall length of inner cable including ferrules, 49 1/2 inches (as best I can measure). Cable housing, 38 3/4. With cable off of bike and inner cable pulled to one end, end of outer housing to end of inner cable ferrule, 10 1/2 (see photos).

This is the position of my primary brake lever with brake properly adjusted (shoes have some wear).

If you find that the cable is correct and you need photos or measurements of front brake cams, I might be able to find time to pull the front wheel this weekend.

I once made this to cure the same problem you're having on another machine (SLS) . The bikes are old, things get tweaked

I remember putting a longer threaded adjustment on the brake lever when the orginal one wouldn't tighten up the cable housing.

did you even read the first post of the thread or just read the title?

Need some help diagnosing. Set up is a '83 front hub with TLS brake plate, 40MM forks and OEM magura brake perch and lever. Both adjusters (perch and fork) have to be all the way out for me to get brake engagement. While it works, it seems like as soon as that front cable stretches, I wont have any adjuster left to take out the slack. I also don't like the flex you get when you have both adjusters all the way out, it robs braking power. The facts you need to know:

-Pads have almost 4MM of friction material left, so not new, but still ok.
-Adjuster nut is in the proper top position in the fork leg.
-I am using a new cable, but wonder if it is the correct cable.
-TLS adjustment rod is correctly adjusted.

Did TLS cables have different "travel" then the SLS cables?

If not, the only thing I can think of is are the cams in the brake plate the correct ones? I see there are different sizes and angles of cams across the Husky models. Would appreciate any available measurements or insight from someone who has a properly functioning TLS set up.

Brake cable part no. 1515022-01 is listed in HVA parts manuals for 80-84 so that spans SLS and TLS front brakes.
It's also in the Parts Manual for 78-79 for some models. Didn't look in any earlier books than that.
Seems WR's had different part no. In 81-82 it was 1515022-03 and in 83-84 1515022-02. I'm guessing that can be due to total length.
Several firms list the front cable as same between 80-84 or 81-84. One shop in Sweden lists same cable for all models 1977-84

I have had a few worn out drums (rear tho), just like a worn cam situation.

the difference is in the cr / wr from 83 where the cr lower sliders and dampers are longer. thus 3 different cables over 80- - 84

If it helps I have the exact same issue with my 84 TLS and an aftermarket cable. All my parts are new or near new. Are the cable ends silver soldered to the cable ? Can I just melt and re solder ? In the Marine industry we used Lead but now its done with Epoxy.

Thanks to all who read my original post and provided relevant information... It appears to be an aftermarket cable issue. I've ordered one that supposedly is different, but yes there were different part numbers. The over all length of the cable should not be the issue, its the amount of slack that is the issue, i.e. the different between the length of the cable and the length of the sheath.