Ten Fins of Fury is HOME!

Well folks Ten Fins of Fury is home.
I finally managed to uncrate her last night and get the front, handlebars and related to roll her into my shop and get her on the stand for tear down.

So...no photos yet, those will come this weekend when I can get her out, next to the 08 TE for a proper photo shoot and not be rushed after work.

State of the girl?
Everything that could be "stamped is stamped "Sweden" and OEM The only exception was the Rims they were made/stamped in Norway. Good Viking stock all the way around!!! Her nick name will probably be "THOR".



1. Original Treelborgs, made in Sweden. They have hairline dry rot cracks so will pull them, put in new tubes and Michelin M12 up front, S12 in the rear.
2. Original brake pads that havent even been seated yet. (going to replace with grooved EBC)
3. Original bars, and all controls. the "H" Crown stamped, vinyl snpped lever bearing wraps are there and intact.


4. Original Tank Graphics were covered by the owner with white low stick contact paper. Some minor seat wear on the back of the alum tank where it contacts.


5. Compression - thought I was going to snap my wrist pushing her through .... 'nough said.
6. Corrosion; minor small areas of light surface rust on the bottom from bell of the pipe and frame downtube. No other rust anywhere else on the bike.


7. All original grommets, bumpers, tabs etc in place.
8. Mods that I found: Neoprene seal savers up front: Debruiser #2 cross bar pad, fuel filter (whoo hooo 1983 style), extra zip tie here and there.
9. The bad: small pencil width frame/paint rub on both sides of the frame about 3-4 inches in length.



Swingarm chain slider is dry rot cracked and will need to be replaced. Rear fender has a single crack about 6" long, looks like frankenstien zipped together with a few white zip ties.


Husky sticky on the countershaft sprocket cover has a slight tear.
Ohlins factory paint on the shock is a bit faded,


black paint on the stock wide ass handlebars is scratched from tie downs.


Yep, your Barn find you read about.
So, new rubber, going to swap out the levers with the sun units, then see where we stand.
this weekend I will take her to the frame and regrease everything with Bel-Ray and get to know the Girl real close and personal.

I had forgot how wonderfully simple these two strokes were to work on and get to. I can reach in from either side with my ape hands and get to any part of the Carb, without taking the bike apart. Electrical, what electrical???? Simple, functional and purpose built.

Yep, HR is Grinnin....time to start shredding tires!

HR

:usa:

Hawaii-rider,
Great find. Great bike. I see alot of fun in your near future. Don't forget to post up photos of repair work and improvements you make.
Rick

And now for the good news:

1) cold starting drill (assumes good plug & in tune): gas on, choke on, put in 2nd gear & rock back & forth several times, stand on crate, put in neutral & find TDC, full kick thru (not panty-waist or killer), will start by 3rd kick. If takes more than 4-5 kicks STOP and go back to beginning (these bikes have big time issues w/kick start gear train and usually blow up/wear out here)
2) elsewhere on site is jetting specs for Mikuni 40mm but if you change to 38mm it'll start easier and have a bit more low end without effecting top end
3) remove & save stock bars, levers, cables (save) & replace w/new ones (bars are heavy & too low)
4) it takes 2 to remove/install engine from frame & you can only remove the head when it's in the frame
5) it REALLY vibrates so be sure to check everything, especially the engine & pipe mounts
6) the rims are stock Nordsk units and they crack at the welded seam. note, not maybe crack but will crack. I have a set of 21/15 Excels w/Buchanan ss spokes & nipples that'll fit, pm me if you want to know more.
7) excellent parts source is www.husqvarna-parts.com
8) lower the compression by milling some metal out of the head dome- I had George at Up Tite do mine & really made a difference
9) if all you do is MX then swap the 6 speed tranny for a 4 speed, gears 33% thicker and don't break

hope this helps!

Nice!



Keep em coming

The start drill is standard two smoke big bore.
when I went through that drill with my 400, CR480, CR500 etc etc, folks looked at me weird.
fuel on
lean till she pukes.
put her in 3
rock her back and forth with the throttle cracked
kick through a few times slow, full strokes.
Run her through, find TDC and MEAN IT.
usually lit within one or two.

Love the drill!...makes me grin.
I have the actual Dirt Rider Test/Review on this bike.
I also have the jetting from the owner and he said he had it spot on, but honestly Im not sure the bike is even broke in yet....
I will post my jetting that I have.

thanx for the info on the cables and levers
I was in the process of getting the YZ 465 levers and mounts (I prefer the old YZ bend)
Getting the Pro-Taper bar mounts for fat bars and mount my Pro Taper Pastrana Freestyle bend (im 6'3")

I have Georges Skid Plate on my TE, what a brick!...I will call him on head mods.

Ever use a reed spacer on these bikes to up and smooth out the low end?

I will PM about the wheels...


HR

:usa:

i ran reed spacer and also mossbarger, no real difference