It is very high, I assume you have not just topped off the radiator? I would drain the radiators to establish no blockage by virtue of a good out pouring-check the over flow tank too. Flush with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and demineralised water and run for 5 minutes. Flush and put in proper antifreeze (suggest engine ice). Run and see if the fluid is moving in the top of the radiator. If it is go for a ride and see if the engine cooling fan comes on early. if it does there possibly a blockage within the engines cooling galleries-unlikely. Most likely issue is an air lock-a flush may well fix this. Please let us know what happens. Good Luck
To me that looks perfect, exactly where I would want it to be. Take note, the overflow bottle hose turns upwards, so there is nowhere for that water to go and the water in that hose would have drained back into the radiator when you removed the cap. Put the cap back on and go ride it like you stole it!!!
I repeat for me everything ok. I'll take the picture after adding some water. just close and start the engine. any excess goes to the expansion vessel that must not exceed one quarter of its filling
While following this instruction is perfectly OK, once the motor and cooling system gets to full operating temperature and then again cools down to ambient, you will be back to your picture. It is physics. At operating temperature the air shown in the drawing will be replaced by steam. When the system cools down, the steam will condensate and no longer be available, a vacuum will be drawn and the void shown in the drawing will be replaced by coolant drawn from the plastic overflow vessel. In fact, if you experience the condition shown in the drawing after full operating temperature and cool down to ambient, you will have a faulty system. Husqvarna probably omitted on their very first page a clear statement that their service and repair manual is for the use and guidance of trained and authorized Husvarna personnel only.
the laws of physics and communicating vessels also say that each time the cap is opened, the communicating vessel is interrupted. so every time you open the cap you need to fill the level up to the hole. I do not know if I explained well in English. excuse me
I open that cap maybe once in three years when I replace the coolant and check the cooling system. Never needed to that in-between.
Well then mine is faulty from the beginning, because its at the normal (as in the drawing) level since I got the bike 15000 km ago... And by the way there is no steam in the coolant system under normal circumstances. The coolant is always in liquid phase. What happens is the coolant expands as it heats up and pressurizes the radiator. If the pressure rises above 1.3 bar the valve opens which can result in a coolant loss. Then when the coolant cools down the vacuum sucks air and coolant from the reservoir. If you overfill the radiator as in the picture it will certainly rise above 1.3 bar in an instant and coolant will flow out. But if you set the level correctly mostly only air will come out. I can say this because the level in my reservoir hardly changes when my bike is at operating temp.
I agree: in my Te310 the cooling level is this way from 2010... and never has had any issue. Let's suppose I let the cooling level according to the manual (I think I did it some months ago). And let's suppose that after a ride the level is like the pic above. What do you think would be the reason why?
Sorry, may be I didn't understand you right, but according to manual, every time we will take a look to the coolant level we shoud remove as much as necesary to have these 10mm liquid above cells. Otherwise the manual would say "this instructions must be only followed once...just when you full the coolant sistem for the very first time"
Yep, better get that sorted it has been faulty from the beginning. Overheating can result in some real expensive repairs. The TE630 has a coolant capacity of 1.2liters From 25C to 105C, the coolant with a CTE of 702e-6 per degree Celsius will expand by 5.6% or 67ml Aluminum (radiators + engine) has a CTE of 69.3e-6. That means the cooling system will expand by 0.55% or 6.7ml So the total coolant expansion will be approximately 60ml, or 4 tablespoons. What is a bit more difficult to calculate is how much all the rubber hoses expand once the system is under pressure, so in reality it is probably quite a bit less than 4 tablespoons. My guess is that you are wrong and the level of coolant needed if filled as per the drawing will need more than 4 tablespoons to lift the coolant beyond the cap pressure seal. I am too lazy to go measure it though, but initially only, if you did exactly what that drawing calls for, steam is doing the job the first time. After that when the system has stabilized as per the more than one photo posted in this thread, the expansion of the liquid will do the job. In your case, there is a problem somewhere and steam is doing the job every time due to the low level of coolant. At some point that will cause enough coolant loss to result in overheating the motor. Have your cooling system serviced properly. That means pressurizing the system with the proper tool (pump and gauge) to see if there is a pressure loss due to a leak. Use the proper tool to test the cap release pressure to see if the cap is in specification or the cap seal is leaking. Check the line that runs to the overflow bottle for a leak. BTW your third and fourth paragraphs totally contradict each other unless vacuum sucks air from the reservoir. If that is the case, there is no liquid in the reservoir, or vacuum sucks air through a leaking connection line. My advice is to not wrench on your own bike. In your case, rather rely on someone who knows what he is doing at the dealership.
An air lock is air trapped in the system. This can cause interrupted fluid flow in the cooling system and needs to be purged. Usually a flush will sort that matter out.
