Te310R ´14 rattles on low and midrange

Hi Guys!!! I read all the posts on this forum and I learned a lot about Italian Huskys; Many thanks!!!

A friend of mine own one of the lasts TE310R ´14 model year. It has 2700km "easy kms" trail ride, not hard enduro.

The bike has been running perfect, but a few weeks ago, started to rattle in low and mid range, with a little vibration. At high rpms. at high rpms the engine works perfect.

The symptoms is like if the engine do not work "perfect" (valve clearance has been checked and seems ok)

Some of you know what´s starting to happen?

Thanks!!!

A 310R owner had the same issue, and in that thread there were some good suggestion of what the problem could be: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/red-head-txc-310-engine-noise.85674/

In that particular case, it turned out the idle was too low- causing the auto-decompress to engage and also some chain slap noise caused by the erratic idle. The idle speed should be 1950rpm's and some people think maybe higher.

give it a read and see if you pick up any clues; keep us informed.

good luck.

Hi Trenchcoat85, thanks by your help. I read all the post and it is not exactly the same problem.

Our bike idle normal, without noises, but when running on low or low to mid-range, you can feel that the engine doesn't work perfect. It rattles a little bit. Mid to high rpm's works perfect... Maybe it's a fuel pressure regulator system defect or something like that.

My friend always start the bike when cold with the kick starter (choke on) and the bike stars really easy, but after that, the idle goes up and down. When the choke is off, the bike idles really well.

Sometimes, cold or hot, if you open the throttle fast, the engine stall.

More ideas?

Thanks in advance

I end up answering these the same way.... How is the battery? Stock, a few years old? Does it charge the battery running and hold above 12v just sitting? Maybe mis firing. It's got a load for headlight and tail light so may be something to at least check. I assume it has an appropriate map and power up so has been running cleanly till now. The stock Yuasa was always temperamental compared to an EarthX or similar Lion, but a weak m/c battery always is a cause for poor running. If misfiring could cause a mild ruckus.

Hello Johnrg. Many thanks for your accurate answer. The bike settings are fully open with Leovince Map. Never tried map 2 becuse the bike is not equipped with the map change switch. The battery is OEM Yuasa and give us 12,5v cold. Bike was manufactured in July 2013 and runs fine until now that rattles a litlle on low and mid range. Electric starter still works great with OEM battery, but my friend try to use it only on emergency situations due to known problems. The bikes starts easily (with kick starter) with choke ON, even hot. Sorry but I do not understand what you mean with "mild ruckus"...

I just mean if misfiring will stumble and lose power. In any case most people are running map 3 and only thing I note is Map 3 is slightly rich from 0 rpms to 15% throttle. 10-20% rich(I installed a pcv and autotune so could monitor fuleing and see how Map 3 was).. Can affect cracking the throttle until warmed up, higher elevation hot starts and cause some pops on deceleration. Other than that I never noted any rattling but the fueling started to bother me at high elevations especially and the pcv cleaned it right up.

Negative... the bike do not missfires and do not pops on decceleration. Bike runs great at high rpm´s but from low to mid range is a little bit "lazy"

Could the rattle be the chain slapping the swing arm if it is a little loose ?

Hi Rancher1, no, the chain tension is Ok. The problem is not a sound... is the engine performance al low and mid rpm´s, but yes, the feeling on board is similar to chain slapping

My temp sensor failed on my '13 TE310 and it ran crappy on the bottom and mid-range. Ran fine on top. When I replaced it, bike started running normal again.

*this*

I did not realize that a failing CTS could cause the bike to run rough down low... but still run fine in the upper rpm's. (I've heard of the opposite though; including not running at all). This little sensor can cause all kinds of weird voodoo- and for $15-20 USD it'd be good to have one on the shelf if it turned out not to be the problem.

[oops- I forgot you may not be a native english speaker; if you have a difficult time translating let me know and I'll straighten out my post]

It could if you are sitting idling in traffic I would think. I overlooked that as well since was one of the first things my dealer replaced on initial sorting, in late 2012.

Hi guys, thanks by all your ideas... The winner is.... Poor battery voltage!!!

We changed the battery AND both cables, positive and negtive (they seem very slim and one of them feels like broken) and now the bike runs perfect again.

Problem solved!!!

Excellent! Thanks for posting your results.

I changed the battery and both cables with #6 welding cables, larger wire and a lot more flexible.

Very good improvement. 100x100 advisable!!!