I also got a replacement and the one in the pic is the original one. The replacements have a better nut in them ( not round, but shaped like a real nut) however, the will strip too. Try to open only when cool and just go 1/4 past hand tight. You can always us a zip tie until you get home if you ever lose a bolt and that's much easier and cheaper than another strip out.
Two of mine are stripped and just spinning in there. How do I actually remove the whole air box? I can only really find one screw holding it on at the top near the tank. What else is holding this stupid thing on? Something behind it out of site?
The boot and then the one looong screw that goes through the cover near the rear. it engages a tab on the subframe.
Had 3 nuts spinning in mine. Spun them with a drill, they heat up and melt the plastic while pulling they come out easily. glue back in and anti seize bolts.
Alright guys I know this is a bit different, I already had to do the airbox where you freeze it. Now I have one in th gas tank right under the seat. Whats the best way to get that one out? Anyone have any ideas?
+1 on the freeze method! Put removed air box in a plastic bag garbage bag. Placed bag in the freezer. Three hours later and the bolt came right out. Now to clean up all the pieces and do the JB weld treatment. Thanks for the tip.
I had the same problem with my airbox, quick fix for me was to leave the insert as it was and to put a longer nut in with a washer and lock-nut at the back. Been working great.
Can you do that for all of them? Any clearance issues with the longer bolt and nut? I have two spinning ones but figure I might as well go all the way around.
I since glued the back bits but they have come out loose again so I think I will be trying this myself.
Hi guys, I had the same issue with two stripped inserts, the freezer method worked real well. I took a different approach and decided to use hex head bolts from the back of the airbox: Tightened them to the inserts (probably should use a dab of lock-tite but want to test this for a little while to see how well it works. Here it is with all the bolts tightened down and airbox mocked on the bike: Now the lid can be closed with some nuts, I used nyloc to hopefully keep them from backing out (I think I could have used slightly shorter bolts for a few of them): This doesn't solve the stripped insert issue but if there are no freezers available I can at least pop the airbox off and hold on to the bolt from the other side. Let me know what you guys think, or if there any potential pitfalls to this method that you can see. Thanks, Alex
Had 4 Spun bolts. New rear air airbox being installed. Was a bugger to get the old oil breather elbow out, but did it. However the oil breather tube now seems too short, has anyone else noticed this, production breather tube is rather robust with inner coil support near the airbox. I wonder if the location of the breather hole on the airbox moved with the newer rear air cover Also, former airbox had a simple hole for the breather, new on has hole with a raised collar inside the airbox Paul
Any one that has removed that piece of the air box has found that the breather hose no longer fits. Material shrinks with age and doesn't reach the hole......
Thanks, was driving me crazy trying to fit it back, off to the pars store for some Cankcase Vent Hose
This has got to be one of the most common complaints ... I ended up doing away with the airbox completely, moving intake to under the seat and getting nice clearance for water crossings (there is an Airboxectomy thread here somewhere on it).
Stupid design still on the swms (rs650), and i was always "gentle" with them . At least the one that failed lets me remove and put the filter on... Gonna try the fridge trick and the bracers before all of them fail.
