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Re-Anodizing Fork Tubes

Discussion in 'Technical Reference' started by HuskyT, Apr 17, 2010.

  1. HuskyT Moderator

    Location:
    Corona, California
    COFFEE EDIT, link to discussion thread LINK

    I looked around a lot and could not find much information related to stripping and re applying Hardcoat Type III Anodize to the inside and outside of my fork tubes on my 2005 TC450

    Had several conversations:thumbsup::cheers::applause: with Les @ LTR , Race-Tech, Clay @ 7602, and Coastline Metal Finishing in the OC!

    Had to do this because of a blown fork spring while riding at Pala MX a few weeks back:

    Starting point is to remove the forks from the bike and then take the tubes apart. Loosen or remove the fork caps while still in the triples. Drain all oil. Hit the bottom nut on the very bottom of the fork with an air impact. This will let the damping rod release from the lower.

    Pop/pry the dust seal out from the end of each tube. Use a small flat screw driver and a small piece of wood underneath it so that the screwdriver doesn't mark up the end of the upper fork tube.

    Remove the spring retainer snap ring. Pull the shaft out of the tube. May take three or four good slide pull actions to let it pop out. Uppers are now off:
    [IMG]

    Clean Fork tube and ensure that there are no wear spots on the inside of the tube where the triple clamp pinch bolts tighten. Look for wear on the inside. Hold a clean tube up to a light or the sky and look through it while rotating 360 degrees

    Note: the inside and the outside have been Hard Anodized type III from the factory. If you see wear spots on the inside, you must completely strip the anodize off of theinside and outside of the fork tube.

    Some people say that you can re-hardcoat over the existing Hardcoat anodize. While possible, this is not a good option as the Sulphuric Bath that is used in reapplying a new coat of hardcoat is used, it will soften the original layer of hardcoat and them will remain soft as an underlayer when the new layer is applied. It will wear very qucily as it is not as hard as a solid uniform coat.

    The inside of the tubes needs to be very clean and smooth after stripping.

    Once tube has been stripped, re-apply Hardcoat Type III anodize in the color of your choice ( I wanted Black) . It should be reapplied in a thickness range of approximately.0010" to .0015" per side. This gives you a total buildup on the ID diameter of approx .002 to .003"

    As advised by Race-Tech this is a good wear layer thickness.

    Inspect I.D. of tube for clean smooth finish. If necessary the ID can be lightly buffed or honed . ( mine came out very clean and smooth - no need to hone) ( as a side note, I called Race Tech :thumbsup::cheers::applause: and they will hone for approximately $30)


    Here are my freshly Hard Anodized Upper Fork tubes ( ready to go to Les @ LTR :thumbsup::cheers::applause:for a full service rebuild:

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

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    [IMG]

    Hope this helps out anyone thinking about re-hardcoating or changing the anodized colors of their fork tubes!

    T
  2. HuskyT Moderator

    Location:
    Corona, California
    Clarifications

    For Clarification:


    Coastline Metal Finishing did the Anodize for me. They are a high quality metal finishing shop located in Orange County , California

    714 895 9099 Contact Eddie Padilla

    Cost to strip and Re-anodize in Type III Hardcoat is $100.00 plus 8% waste fees.

    They are a top notch metal finishing company /NADCAP approved and supply high end metal finishing to all of the Aircraft primes. In 7 years of sending them $$$$$$ of Job Shop Machine work I have had zero rejections. Their quality is second to none. Anyone can provide anodizing but they provide high end quality precision work. Not necessarily the cheapest out there but you get what you pay for.

    Race-Tech is located in Corona , California and have been very helpful providing me with tech tips, advice etc. . They can provide this same service as well as full rebuilds. Call them for costs. I am using them for all of my Vintage work. Matt Wiley is amazing, helpful etc.. highly recommend them.

    Les @ LTR is a suspension Guru. ( forum sponsor here) He built my forks originally and stands behind them now. He gets my business. Period


    Clay @ 7602 ( forum sponsor here) is very helpful and gave me his advice and discussion freely as related to fork rebuilds and pretty much anything else you would care to discuss with him.

    T
  3. HuskyT Moderator

    Location:
    Corona, California
    Les @ LTR :notworthy:dialed in my forks once again....

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    T
  4. HuskyT Moderator

    Location:
    Corona, California
    Assembly note - Top and bottom Triple clamps Torque Values

    The Husky manual calls for a torque value of 16.5 to 19 Foot Lbs.

    After having done this twice now, the 19 lbs is to much on the lower triple. IT will cause wear on the inside of the fork tube. Hardcoat anodize will wear off at clamping locations.

    After consulting with Les @ LTR here is what I went with

    Bottom triple pinch bolts 12mm head - torque to 12 Foot lbs.

    ( snug by hand, then torque at 8, then 10, then 12ft lbs)

    Top Triple Pinch bolt 12 mm head: Torque to 16.5 lbs
    ( snug by hand, then torque to 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and finally 16.5 lbs)

    T
    454x and KLOC like this.