So after fixing some issues and still running my TE630 with the 'tilt sensor high value' error and the neutral blinking i started to have a left radiator leak and the bike stopping. I´ve seen this bike suffers from leaks due to vibrations, and i already changed the right radiator (the one with the filling cap and the fan) with a chinese one made for the TC250 model. I guess the left one on the TE630 can also be replaced with one from this TC250 model as well. I was so eager to drive with some friends that i decided to put some sealant additive into the anti-freezing liquid, and equipped myself with an extra liquid in a bottle to keep adding liquid on the way. I manage to make the 150 mile trip, not without 4 engine stops. After each stop i added some liquid (never took more than 200 ml or so), let it cool for a while and bike started fine again. I think the fan never got started so i wonder if the engine halts were due to high temp, to fan error, ....i have not yet connected the ibeat software to check the errors. Now first i want to replace the radiator, so wanted to check with you guys: -. Will the TC250 (2010/2011) left radiator work on the TE630 ? -. Since i put some additive into the coolant system, what would be the best manner to clean up well the whole system ? Thanks for any ideas.
Cleaning is simple. Drain the existing coolant via the plug/screw on the cylinder. Then put in at a 50:50 mix white vinegar and ionized water. Run the motor and drian. I do this twice if changing coolant brands. If using "ICE" then let the radiators dry out for a day or so-even push through some compressed air to advance the process.
So after cleaning the coolant system with some vinegar+ionized water, and replacing both radiators with 'chinese made' ones, i suspect the coolant circuit is clogged. Reasons: (1) When i fill with coolant, i close the tap, run the engine, open the tap and check level = full. Moving the engine, thus the pump, should have move the coolant liquid down the system bringing air to the tap. (2) and most important, bike gets hot after a short while. I have checked the water pump and it rotates ok with engine... The system drains just fine via the plug/screw on the cylinder. Any ideas how could i find where the coolant system is clogged ?
yes, that could be a problem, because the fan never starts. But apart from the temp sensor plugged into the back of the cylinder (already replaced twice), i don´t know if there is another thermostat...
That's not the thermostat, that's a temperature sensor. The thermostat restricts coolant flow when cold to get the engine to operating temperature quickly. If it fails the engine will o/heat within minutes of start up. I'm not familiar with the cooling system layout of the 610/630 but generally the thermostat is in a plastic housing that has radiator hoses connected to it. A quick test is to check radiator temp as the engine warms up, if they stay a lot colder as the engine is getting hot........thermostat issue. If the engine takes longer (10minutes or more) to o/heat and the radiators get as hot as the engine, the fan will be on. If it's not check the fan itself.......could be failed.
I believe the coolant pump in this bike is mechanical running continuously when the engine on. The temp sensor should be used to kick off the fan (does not work) and as input to the fuel injection unit.
that's not a thermostat, just a T for connecting tubes. I tried disconnecting the temp sensor plug, when i switch the key the fan starts working, though the bike would not start.
OK, i checked the parts and it is the thermostat...but i do not see any wires, connectors,... how does this work ? Also pretty expensive part, 65 euro.
so i will disassemble and clean the thermostat. How can i check if it is faulty or working correctly ? Could i just eliminate the thermostat ? I ride the bike in -5 to 30 degree Celsius conditions.
you're confusing an automotive thermostat with a house thermostat or maybe a thermocouple. A thermostat in this case is typically a mechanical valve that lets water flow above a certain temp. No electronics at all. Been around for like 70 years or so. It has a wax pellet which melts and the liquid wax occupies a greater volume, forcing a piston to open the valve. Cooling off is the opposite (with the help of a spring). #4 is indeed the thermostat. yes, you could replace it with a Tee (and a few of us think this is smart). [edit: wait... looks like you could replace it with an elbow and a plug. trace the hot and cold water flow. Also -5°C is starting to get pretty cold, if you ride in this temperature frequently- maybe keep the thermostat] To test it, maybe block off the smaller outlet and put a clear hose on the inlet filled with water. put it in a pot of water mostly submerged and slowly heat the water up. Eventually the valve should open and the hose in the water should empty into the pot. And I would guess this would happen at around ~170°F (~80°C). I have never done this test on a nylon motorcycle T-stat. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat (read about half way down the page)
thanks so much for your answer...i'll check... do you have the specs for the Tee i would need in case i eliminate it ? I guess eliminating the thermostat means the engine will take longer to reach proper working temp, so i need to not rev up it too much during a few minutes after starting from cold.
no I don't have the specs- but I would not be surprised if it was the same thermostat that's on my 310R. I doubt that at nominal temps you would notice a difference in the warm up time. My entire cooling system holds about a quart (liter) of coolant and probably less than 2/3 of that would be in the radiator I'm guessing.
