Question about frame grounding

I saw some posts about sanding paint/PC off of the area of the frame where the swingarm wear washers sit. Is this really necessary, since the engine is grounded through the two front motor mounts?

And there are also posts suggesting to run an additional ground wire between the stator and the coil . What I have gotten into the habit of is checking my grounding with an ohm meter . So far the best I've been able to get is about .3 ohms from the engine to the coil . Hope this helps .

you are correct but some is good....more is better

Are you saying more grounding sources in better ?

the old hot setup trick back in the day was to have no nuttin in there solid bare metal to metal contact and if your runnin a motoplat ground the shit out of it i ran 12ga from the stator out to a motor mount and from coil down to the same place

Am saying another spot to be grounded is better in case motor mount area loosens, rusts, oxidizes...etc

Not saying more area gives a more potent ground.

It doesn't hurt to have a extra ground wire in the system. Run a Ground wire the tail light, to the ign coil, to the headlite, to the ign. I solder and shrink boot all the splices. We can use masking tape in the grounded areas before we paint the frame. I wonder is clear coating each frame ground or putting a dab of silicone over each connection.

I understand what you're saying but running it to a motor mount you would still be depending on no corrosion at the motor mounts . If you are going to run an external ground wire , bring it from the stator to the coil . Depending on the wire gauge and connectors used would determine the resistance of the additional ground . Using a vom you can always go back and double check ground resistance if you develops any ignition problems . Even adding an additional ground wire , most would not use connectors and wire made from the same material and would get oxidation due to dissimilar metals that would change the resistance also .

Why not wire it to a stator screw inside the ignition housing. I don't trust going through the front motormount.

I say this because my tractor drove me to the brink. The ground was bad. Now I'm wiring from the starter, to the frame to the battery ground.

Good point- I added the extra wire from stator to ground to solve an ignition problem. Silicone or dielectric grease at any connections would certainly limit corrosion.

Put a common ground mounting post up near the coil (attached to one of the coil bolts)then a wire from that post to the reed cage mounting bolt that way the path passes through the aluminium head through the studs to the bottom engine, aluminium conducts way better than steel.also put an earth wire from the triples to the mounting post.

It always helps to have backup grounding as wire can corrode and so can metal to metal contact

I agree that adding an additional ground source may resolve a grounding issue else where , isn't really a "band-aid " fix ? If adding another ground give peace of mind , then by all means go it . But that additional ground should also be checked once in a while also just to make sure it stays good . If you use an ohm meter to verify your grounding , you will always have a reference to check against in the future . So let's say one decides to run this ground wire from the cylinder head studs to the coil . Let's see , what's between that location and the stator . Cylinder studs , when was the last time the cylinder was off ? Were the studs completely clean ? Cylinder nuts clean ? Now to the cases , gaskets , case screws , more things to prevent good grounding . If you have an ohm meter , how hard would it be to put 1 lead on the stator and the other lead to the coil ? Quick check to verify your grounding and can also be done on any additional ground wires .
And while some metals are better conductors than others , it also depends on size . For instance for a solid 26 gauge wire , if you have 1 ohm resistance , you have 25 ft of wire measuring end to end . 2 ohms would be 50 ft of wire . Now let's go to 19 gauge solid wire , 1 ohm would be 125 ft end to end . If you have an ohm meter , checking your grounds is a great use for it .

Oh , forgot to mention . At my work we use a product called No-ox to put over our grounds and battery connections . Not sure where it could be bought but might be worth while to investigate if interested .

It looks like No-ox is available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Compound-Electrically-Conductive-Grease/dp/B00HSW341A

JT

Thanks. I wont be sanding the wear washer area. Sanding the motor mounts and coil mounts were enough for me.

I was thinking about this tonight while in the shop doing some work while I wait for my frame.

Has anyone ever thought of this:

The motor mount bosses on the cases have steel inserts in them. I was wondering if galvanic corrosion from the two dissimilar metals (The cases and the inserts) are part of the grounding issue.
Granted running and extra ground wire would be a work around but has anyone popped the inserts out of the cases and checked for corrosion in there?

not easy to pop the inserts out without damaging the cases usually

purdy sure those don't just slid out just run those ground wires

Yeah, I gave them a few taps with a very small hammer and a long skinny drift and decided that they didn't want to move.