Any 09 bikes in a different configuration than the ones tested can go to Dynojet in Las Vegas and get a dyno tune & free PC V is my understanding. I'm not sure if they are testing any more 08 bikes, if they are, then it would be for the PC III. Again that is my understanding, calling them to confirm these things would be best. I doubt the cafe husky member from Dynojet Research monitors this thread anymore, but they may.
Dynojet Research, Inc. 2191 Mendenhall Drive North Las Vegas, NV 89081 Phone: +1-702-399-1423 Toll Free: 800-992-4993 (USA Only) I have called and asked questions like this- they actually answer the phone
I'm almost finished installing mine. (PCV w/ AT) Unfortunately it may be several days before I'll have an opportunity to try it out. Note: The PCV instructions at step #8 read: "Crimp the supplied wire tap to the ORANGE wire of the ECU Harness (Fig E) This is the 3rd wire from the end, top row of the ECU. " Problem is, not ALL bikes have an orange wire in the third position. Mine has a orange w/ black stripe in the 3rd position, and a solid orange in the 5th pos. I called Dusty to ask him about this and he said he has seen it once before, but doubted himself at the time as to being the correct wire. (it was) DynoJet will likely be updating their instructions to reflect this. If you want to make certain, stick a volt meter on the 3rd wire, grounding the other probe. W/ the key on, kill button in the run position, (if you have either or both) you should read a little less than 1 volt at closed throttle, and somewhere between 4 and 5 volts at wide open throttle, voltage rising as you increase throttle opening. Mine read .97 and 4.77 The instructions also tell you to mount the box on the inside of one of the plastic side panels. Huh? That seemed like a really bad place to me considering how often we remove plastic. After playing around w/ various places, I settled on the fender between the battery and the seat latch for the PCV, and the "V" shaped space between the frame rails in front of the fuses for the AT. I'll update this post w/ photos when I'm done.
The instructions should read "Orange wire with Black stripe", if in doubt reference the picture in the instructions. I did not notice the error in the instructions until attaching a PC V to a 2008 TE250.
The install is complete -for now. I don't like the extra terminals on the neg. battery post, so I'll rig up some type of quick disconnect in the future for them. The units come with real strong Velcro, which is under each one of them. And yes, the PCV clears the seat just fine. Other than the AutoTune's Oxy sensor cable being a mile long, all was fine. Now if the monsoon rains would quit, I'd be able to try it out!
im close to installing also, my motor is clear of any obstructions and is ready for the athena swap on friday, and then the pcV/AT install. your location looks like it would take on alot of water. i have got to do something about this airbox, i go through some serious water crossings sometimes hip
DynoJet's instructions say to mount it on the backside of a sidepanel! When I talked to Dusty a few days ago, he said when testing the units, they actually did a test with one of the units under water in a bucket, and it worked just fine. YMMV.
The PC III suggested mounting location was above the battery as some pics show, I'm not sure it makes any difference. I have no doubt the PC will run soaked... The Lambda sensor? that might be another issue. I was told they do not like water. Once the bike is tuned up, and you like it, you can pull the lambda sensor out - the Auto Tune module too if you like.
I asked Dusty for clarification on the Lambda sensor getting wet. It can can get wet on the outside, that's no problem. The "don't get it wet" part means "don't sink the bike under water and let water run down the exhaust pipe -hitting the Oxy sensor". When you know you're going to be on a 'wet' ride, shut off autotune prior to the ride, or better yet, shut it off AND remove the Oxy sensor. i.e in a situation like this: If you picked the wrong line here, the bike will literally disappear beneath you! Ryan got lucky and only watered the motor.
This picture was obviously not taken in California.. I don't think we have that much water in the whole state..
I received the PC V and autotune a few days ago, and got it installed today. I rode for 20 mins. on the road, many cells were trimmed, many to the max of 20%. I rode for an hour or so on dirt, and again most cells had been trimmed, fewer to the max of 20%. Another session or two should complete the autotune. The motor now runs the way it was intended. The power is super linear now, and there's more of it. Power wheelies, well loft the front end, are much easier now.
Can I assume you are accepting the trim values i.e. altering the base map and nulling the trim map, then doing more riding for more of a tune?
Absolutely! I need a netbook for the trail now. I still have an ignition problem, the engine cut out and coughed and farted a few times on me today. When I got home I took apart the ignition switch. I believe this has been the culprit. I'm surprised the thing actually works at all. One of the copper contacts was completely oxidized. I cleaned it all up and treated it liberally with dielectric silicone grease. A ride or three will confirm if the switch was the cause of my ignition misses/cut out transient problems. P.S. For those wondering where my battery went. I made a much smaller LiFePO4 battery, the PC V and Autotune are velcro'd on the face of the battery, all in less space than the stock battery...and much less weight.
lets see some photos of that battery, i cant even see it on those pics i was a r/c car guy a few years ago and did the whole a123/lithium and id like to get rid of this stock yusa monster size battery here was my top choice, these are used by alot of ktmtalk talk members http://www.turntechbattery.com/TurnTech Battery/Welcome.html hip
See this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4852 Pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/bbarden/LiFePO4Battery#
