This is just for the "chronicle"-part of the thread.....it just might help someone else, somewhere, sometime. Separate thread here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/dead-strada.82505/ As feared at time of purchase of the bike..... the shit hit the fan about 3 months ago. The Strada just rolled over and died and the whole merry dance of dealers, MOSS/OSS/warranties etc etc started to take its dreaded course. _________________________________________________________________ Background: Go for a 1/2 day photo-ride, all fine. Top up fuel after the last ride at the usual local pump (high volume, major hwy outlet). Wash and rinse bike. Hook up to usual battery tender. Restart bike after 2-3 weeks, starts fine. Symptoms: Good cold start, runs ok on choke/cold settings. After ~60 secs run time, idle starts to turn rough, lumpy, engine dies. Re-start possible immediately.....to die again after 10 seconds or so. Measures taken before involving dealer: Drain tank Replace battery Check + clean (replace) Pre-filter sock and pod-filter foam, check for loose/ damaged/ kinked vacuum hoses/ lines/ cables/ tubes around engine. Nothing found. Re-plug standard RF antenna, removing the ignition-key bypass. Fuel pump check: seems ok No errors on dash. All lights etc working. Dealer: Had the bike 8 weeks so far, no electronic checking can be done (apart from hooking up the KTM service tablet and wiping the "service-spanner" on the dash) Comms between dealer and PFG National Service Manager (the old importer as KTM doesn't want anything to do with those bikes) are PAINFULLY slow!!! The first indication that ANYTHING was done on the bike over the last 8 weeks were a few phone pics showing me a slightly dirty stepper motor....and supposedly they followed my urging to use another CO2 sensor from some other bike/ brand/model/ no idea what....and supposedly the first run turned out fine, but ....SUPPOSEDLY....they've had that before. (without ever even mentioning what they'd done to even get that far :bang. SUPPOSEDLY!). We'll see what happens next...oops, re-phrase: if anything happens sometime.
Sorry to hear that glitch_oz. Hoping for all TR650 owners sake that KTM take on their responsibilities after having purchased Husqvarna.
I think we're pretty much on our own with those bikes. I'm not going to Canberra for a week or 6...until they might be able to sort it out. If it works out with the local guys or you know your way around and/ or got a savvy grease-monkey at hand...fine. If it doesn't....take a spanner to it and flog the thing in parts over the next couple of years, then dump the rest in the recycle bin. Not getting too fussed/ anxious by the situation, life's too precious and there IS the Suzuki in the garage () ... a rotten Husky isn't the end of trips and travels for this old dog :-))) Now...THAT shoulda been a Husky and a KLR last weekend
I know - there are lots of possible small adventure bikes - however for me the TR does it for me - bit like a high maintenance Italian woman
The plastic 'S' push button breaks really easily. When that happens, this modification is necessary to restore 'S' button functionality through the use of an external button/switch.
No updates, bike at dealers for 3 months after sudden refusal to run. Due to lack of diagnostics the "replace/bodge + see" approach turned up a shoddy OEM O2sensor in the end. Running ok ever since (with the usual stalling issues). Not a bike I'll take much further away from home than what I can recover with a trailer by the end of the weekend. Still tinkering with some ideas about that S-button fix, but have to wait until it breaks to take things further. (or someone helps out with a busted/ semi-destroyed unit I can play with). Would like to make a universal "plug+play" fix. Thanks for looking in :-)
The "busted S-button" fix. Here's another go at it...which also belly-flopped due to running out of time and nerve. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/strada-terra-nuda-dash-button-fix-bypass.81991/#post-551772
Im going to try it on mine, mine stopped working and i thought it was the gs911 doing something as it happened at the same time but reading this im thinking mine is broken.
Mine was broken too, broken right off and jammed under the M button... So im making a new part on my CNC tonight
When my button broke I fixed it with a two part (primer and glue) Selleys plastic bond. That worked for a while, but the actual contact area where it breaks is so small and flexes by design so it's hard to get a permanent bond. I glued it back the second time, and then I got two very small strips of gaffer tape, and used them to brace the 90° joint top and bottom. So far so good after a few 1000km, I expect the tape to hold things in place if/when the repair brakes again, and then to continue fuctioning normally until the glue on the tape deteriorates, maybe a couple of years.
I have run my bike with the O2 sensor disconnected for the past 850 km with no problems at all. No fault lights etc. The disconnection is part of my trial and error approach to solving the stalling issue and so far has given great results. Previously I had a 124 injector and Dyna Boost set up which worked perfectly well, but here in the Philippines the Dyna boost is proving difficult to obtain in the numbers required (I currently know and have helped 40 owners) so I was looking for a viable low cost alternative. I currently run with a 124 Injector, a Variable Resistor Air Temperature spoofer and no O2 sensor connected. So long as I keep the bike on 100 octane fuel I have absolutely no problems and fully loaded (luggage and passenger) it returned 21 km/ltr on twisty mountain roads running at 80-100 kmph. I have 15/49 sprockets too. So the current theory - add the injector, spoof the air temperature and do not allow the ecu to learn from the O2 sensor. At the moment all is good, but I do wonder if the ecu has a default setting where it just runs lean when it does not get the O2 sensor feedback. Anyway the 124 Injector has got that sorted and the air temperature spoofer is working too.
The new part i produced is working great, no gluing, just open and pull out the broken part and drop the new part in the hole and re-assemble! Super easy and works 100 times better than the hard to press stock thing
