Well done I used an Andy Strapz tank bag, I wrapped 50mm wide velcro around the seat, stapled so as not to move, then one clip bolted to the Safari x-brace, the bag clips to this & the velcro holds it in place - at petrol stops, just lift it off the velco Or, fill the left-hand safari tank which slowly fills the other 2 tanks 9-10 litres per fill gives me about 250 klms
Nope...just checked the fit of the 21" BM-wheel in a Strada, that part's fine. If needed, I'll turn the ABS off....never had it before, won't miss it.
Great to hear...all the base-parameters are BMW-derived anyway, and they've only ever used 21/17 combos, so there shouldn't be any problems... but one never knows.
There was 1 person that found his 21/17 setup to be so close to the edge of working that he had to make sure the tires were properly inflated. I don't recall the exact setup he used, but there definitely are some posts about it here.
Here's the posts I remember. Maybe Inaciob could update his experience? Used Spare Spokes, OEM, or Woody's For My Strada?
Thanks. There were also some dealer- "terra-fied" Stradas around near the end of the stock sellout here in Oz, as the Terras were selling significantly better than the Stradas. Most went for the look only with the high front guard, but a few had the wheels swapped for Terra wire-wheels also. Wonder, if they finished up with 17 or 18 rears. The Euro ABS-Terras also had 17 rears, from memory. I doubt very much that there've been different firmware versions for the ABS/ non-ABS and/ or the range of possible wheel-combos.
Why would ABS induce a need for 17s cf non ABS 18s. Left over legacy from bmw.? Husky guys really wanted 18s?. Does it even matter. ?
OK....some days you just get beaten. :-( Dismantling was quick...just watch this connector (cut the cabletie + disconnect), as that's the one that can result in the dreaded EWS-error and a dead bike after playtime's over. Pull the front 2 front clips holding the posts of the dash and check if you can pull the connector off the dash-socket (push the tongue down)....I couldn't, not enough space. Had to drop the cross-brace to get to the 3rd post-clip in the back. That's it With the 8 Torx6 screws removed and the top cover off....the right of the 2 pins is the target.....or rather, the connecting "legs" of the switch underneath the pin. In my case, the white plastic horizontal tab is still intact, preventing the removal of the pin. And that means there's absolutely NO ACCESS to those 2 tiny 'legs" to attach the 2 wires to for an external switch. Asking Greg/ DandyDisco which legs to attach the tap to, it's the 2 on the left (facing west...or...9 o' clock with the dash in the normal, natural position) Outsmarted myself and pried the PCB out of the back-casing to solder or glue the wires to the bottom of the legs (as they usually stick through the PCB with the factory solder-points below securing the component/ switch in this case, to the board.) All ready to roll and with some epoxy mixed up, I had another quick look at the 2 "tapping points" with a magnifying glass...and SHIT, those little "solderpoints" rather look like some sort of electronic component, some micro-resistor or capacitor or something !! And I was seconds away from sticking a mighty epoxy-turd on top of each! I'm beat! Thankfully it all still works fine after an anxious re-assembly....3 hours blown, I'll have a beer now and think of some other goof-up I could fabricate :-)) Maybe some other day....when my S-button has packed up.
Rear sprocket carrier bearings...another potentially disastrous (as in ride-busting) issue on the TR Unlike most other carriers, this one has TWO both bearings, side-by-side. with a small spacer in between. Both bearings extract/ insert from one side only. Sorry for the slightly blurred shot, but still clearly visible....double-depth bearing seat, showing the recess for the retainer clip. Factory bearings are SKF Explorer 6204, 2 off... ...and a generic 30x40x7MM seal The entire stack of bits and parts Left-to-right as it belongs into the carrier: 1) Bearing at the bottom 2) retainer clip and spacer 3) the second bearing 4) seal As the bearing seat is double-depth, I knocked the core out of one of the old SKF's, cutting and de-burring the outer to use as a tool when carefully knocking in the new bearings. Which should make for nice, smooth travel and seating of the new bearing without going askew along the way, possibly damaging the seat of the upper bearing. The slot allows sufficient give to extract the ring after the first bearing's in place.
Sorry glitch. Didn't mention that it's a 7 layer circuit board and the switch is surface mounted. What I did was use a very fine needle to make a gap between the leg coming from the switch and the switch housing. Then insert a fine wire with a spot of super glue. I can always drop by one night. Cheers. Greg
Hi mate Would love to fix this before that plastic tongue on the button snaps...but it sounds like that has to happen (or made to happen) as otherwise there's no access to the actual switch contacts to glue the tapping wires. (is that about right?) I'd also love to take some snaps of the fix to post up here.
When I did mine "just in case" used Niacini bearings from Japan - l removed the inner seal from each bearing then filled the space 50% with quality water resistant grease, this ensures adequate lubrication, virtually for ever Also replaced the alloy spacers with stainless steel
Seems like a good idea...had them made locally? Haven't come across "Niacini"-bearings, but never had a bad experience yet with the Nippon-made Nachi's. Or any Jap-made bearing for that matter.
