125-200cc Poorly husky wr125 2013 electrical runs for short distances

Right Gents it's abit long winded but here goes..

So on friday just gone on my way back from work my husky cut out at the lights fired her back up road another 50yards and it cut out again then wouldn't start 10mins go by and it fired right up decided to get home so went for it it would go above 30mph splittering and what not like it was bad fuel or the plug which was changed 2 weeks prior to this..after a short push I was home and stripped the carb to find it was clean changed the plug over and kicked it realised there was no spark..

The resistor had burnt out so I changed that for a 33 ohm 10watt as that was all they had at maplins just to see if it fire up and still nothing then after checking the wires going to the ecu the white one on the flat 4 spade plug was fucked so I fixed that and bang she fired up left her running for a good 10 mins whilst I checked the resistor so see how hot it would get seems fine.

This morning on my way to work about 5 mins into my journey waiting at the junction it cuts out and wouldn't start again pushed down the road for about 5 mins and then tried it and it fired up got about another 50 yards before it died..

So far it's had a

Fresh plug
Fresh fuel
The repair to the wire
And that 33ohm 10watt resistor - not the correct one think it needs to be 27ohm 10w but it's all maplins had

now if someone could tell me what the hells going on with my husky that'd be great because I'm a mechanical man not electrical.

Thanks in advance gents any pointers are welcome.

I remember some on this forum having similar symptoms and ended up replacing the Ducati ignition. I'm thinking the 09s and older have a different ignition that is not digital and relatively trouble free. Maybe doing a Ducati ignition trouble search on this forum would lead you in the right direction.

suggestions: check for most obvious/easiest stuff first.

kill sw.
bad grounds.
loose/chaffed/broken wire (continuity checks, wiggle/check).
test coil/wires/etc. (hot n cold, heat can cause opens to open up then close when cool)

Awesome dude I'll check that out the bike seems to get warm then plays up but when you say "can cause opens to open up" what exactly do yo mean and if I take the stator cover off will I need a gasket for it it's the first time I've ever felt the need to go in there. I'm no electrician by anymeans but all I can do is try and if I don't suceed I'll pass it onto a mechanic/electrician

Thanks again for your help guys it's really appreciated

coils/ECU's etc. can have a weak link in them and when they get hot they go to "open" causing no contact causing erratic conditions.

but look for obvious stuff first. bad wire, corroded connectors etc.

Well it's possible the wire I repaired isn't quite making the connection then and that resistor i mentioned am I right in thinking that's something to do with regulating the voltage to the plug I will check all the wires thank you again for being so helpful

good point if i suspect same i'll heat the part in question with a heat gun with the DVM hooked up and watch and see if continuity is lost or the operating ranges go way out of whack or to 0 ohm indicating an "open".

Did you mean by " 0 ohms " being no reading , infinity ? 0 ohms I have always considered a good connection with no resistance .

That is genius saves me riding away from the house I'll give that a bash tomorrow as I'll have to get my heatgun from the workshop as for that factory 27ohm 10watt resistor i could only get my hands on a 33ohm 10watt resistor for now..my question being how critical is that resistor or is it for the running gear of the indicators that aren't hooked up.

I'm feeling more confident as we chat that I may be able to solve this ballache with your help.

trigger, exciter and ignition coils etc. as well as most circuits have a specified resistance as per the manual. if they are out of range at a given ambient temp or have no reading/infinity/0 resistance when heated then.....

when checking switches/connections you use "continuity" in most cases. when the switch is "ON" the contact closes = BEEP on the DVM and when the switch is "OFF" it usually goes to open/0/infinity... in most cases. check the manual and YMMV.

obviously each case is different, YMMV, etc. etc. etc.

I second the vote for Stator issues!

BTW, Since no one else has said it....

Right on! Its winter in the UK, Cold and raw, and you are riding a 125cc 2 stroke to work! Damn Straight. That is awesome!

Dude I fucking love the thing I'm so depressed that it's died on me hence the badgering of questions I want my baby back working

Nah you won't need ignition/stator cover gasket if you're careful taking it off. I've had mine off plenty of times over the years & still oem gasket. It doesn't hold oil or anything