Oil Pump/Filter for Autos

After buying my '86 430 AE I have wanted to put an oil filter and pump on it ever since seeing a thread on here where someone had done that. I have a couple technical questions about it. First what size and thread are the oil fill hole and oil drain hole? I was thinking of using these as the return and pick-up respectively.

Next the info I have says the light coils are 70 + 70 W, so there is 140W total supplied by 2 separate 70W coils correct? I have found a 12v, 60W motorcycle turbo scavenge pump that is quite small, several of them are 2 to 2.5gpm flow. I was thinking of using one of these powered from one of the 70W coils if possible, thoughts? I know the coils are AC, its not to hard to get or build a bridge rectifier (AC to DC converter) to swap to DC. Voltages were not listed so I am uncertain if I would get 12vdc out after converting from AC to DC, or if I would get like 30vdc and 70W would mean lower amperage. Does anyone have a little more info on the generator coils?

As for the filter I am thinking of using an orifice plate (See picture below) from work (for creating a differential for monitoring gas flow at wells and gas plants, something completely unrelated to bikes anyhow). They look like a washer basically, round with a hole in the middle and come in all sorts of sizes (Ours don't have the little handle life the picture though, and ours seems thicker). The thing I like about them is they are precise, outside and inside diameters are precise, as well as thickness and surface. The surface is very smooth great for making a seal. The hole in the middle I could weld a pipe nipple to for a screw on filter and for the returning oil and drill a hole somewhere around the edge of the "Washer" for the oil to enter the filter. I Googled it for those screw on filters, oil goes in on the outer holes and returns clean from the single center hole, I didn't know that until now (The more you know!). I like the ease of changing screw on filters, ease to find, cost and available sizes (I want a decent size one). Anyhow, that was the thoughts for that, no real questions, just my plan.



I think this setup should work, add extra oil to accommodate the filter and added equipment, as well so there is more so the pick-up doesn't take in air too frequently. Any info is helpful, the less unexpected problems the better!

What are you going to use the bike for? Unless you are wanting to ride it hard all day in tough enduros I wouldn't bother. Racing VMX for a few laps once every few months does not require any mods to an auto. Changing the fluid regularly is the best maintenance. Old bikes and old riders should equate to an easy life for both!

I think you are on the right track in going electric. Actually perhaps go electric for the cooling and run the oil pump off of the crank end. The air cooled autos had a way to catch some oil and add it to the center of the crank end.

I thought gas well when I saw that picture, Isn't that non rusting material kind of more warpage prone than plain steel when welding.

I would keep the present oil add opening That way you can stick your finger on the clutch drum and see if you get burned.

I don't want to go hard on it but I would like to take it out for day trips, exploring the country side down dirt roads and we have a large trail system around here that isn't a difficult ride but would take quite awhile to explore. I don't want to have to go out for a day and pack extra oil with my jerry cans so at lunch I can change oil while munching on a sandwich. That and it doesn't seem like it should be too difficult to add a system on. And its nice to do whatever I can to keep the bike in tip top health.

The one I saw on here they made a whole new cover for one side it seemed to me, a little much for right now, so rather then do mechanical driven off a shaft, electric would be easier and reversed quickly as well.

It probably would be more prone to warping, the one pictured is surprisingly thin though, some of ours are close to half a cm or thicker, I think just being careful to tac it and not weld all the way round in one go heating it up should be fine.

Yeah the oil add opening will stay, but the return line will come in through the cap though.

doing all that just for a fillter is no real benefit . putting a cooler on it is a far better idea

Ideally you need both, for filter assembly you can use an aftermarket type designed for pre unit British bikes, for an oil cooler plenty of Japanese and Chinese bikes and quads have them, use an electric pump and a battery, it is easy to carry a spare battery. I would suck from the back of the cases and supply over the first gear clutch, you could use the crank end feed but it might add too much back pressure. Hmm, that sounds easy, why haven't I done it?

Well for the cooler a pump is needed anyhow, why not throw a filter in the works as well? It would increase oil volume and keep it cleaner. I like the idea of a cooler, but I have a lot of modifications I would like to make, only so much room. I wanted to get bigger rads for it anyhow at some point possibly. The scavenge pumps for turbos I was looking at are from RB Racing, they look to be about 3-4 inches long, 1.5 inches in diameter. The specs for these size pumps say they self prime to 5 feet, lift capable to 15 feet (tall bike haha) and are 2 to 2.5 GPM. If I can't run it off the light coils a battery is fine, I have a cell booster I wanted to put in a case on the back and run off a motorcycle battery anyhow (cell service out in the trails is non exsistent at best, a cell booster is required to make calls).

Well why haven't you done it? Haha! Yeah, I was going to make a new plug for the oil fill hole so the return can enter there and spray the first gear clutch with clean cooled oil. Can you say happy transmission?

This weekend I am fixing the trans problem I was having, found the little shifter in the case was worn down, the gear could slip past it. Easy fix thankfully.

Search this forum for 'VDO oil pump' Thats all you need. Avoid those big Turbo scavaenge pumps and similar. They are heavy, bulky, overkill for this application and usually require a lot of power and are designed for very hot engine oil . Not sure what one you are specifically looking at but if you can find it and tell me the amp rating i will tell you if your stator will run it. Avoid the simple bridge rectifier from electronics shop. Yeah they are good for certain applications but in this case you want to fully rectify and regulate the AC power with a proper motorcycle single phase regulator rectifier which will have 4 wires comming out it. You can normally pick these up for maybe $30 or something not far from that. Baja Designs wll have them. Keep in mind that when you rectify, there will typically be a 1/3 loss of of the AC power so from 70w you will end up with a useable DC supply of about 47w.

For the thread fittings, get a thread pitch guage in metric size and match it up to thread and use verniers to measure OD of threads if no one can tell you what size. For oil filter Look at products from Earls and K&N. they do inline oil filters. There is a particular grade of filter lthat should be used with the VDO pump from memory. Again just google it and find the instalation instructions for it or find a forum where people have discussed it. Thats how i found out. I think Earls have a more better filter than K&n. I found them on ebay too.

Lockhart make a small vertical oil cooler. Look on ebay for NOS Harley sportster oil coolers. They are still out there. They are approx 60-70mm wide and 200mm tall (nice and slim)

Please post up photos when your done. I would love to see how it all turns out.