Oil levels post Zip-Ty Oil Recirculation Kit installation

I've purchased a full oil recirculation kit from Zip-Ty for my '13 TE449. The product reviews suggest that significantly more oil will be added to the engine post installation. Do I still use the oil level "inspection window" to determine the correct engine oil level? And should I use a different oil, post installation, to the SAE 10W-40 I have been using (I ride in South Africa mostly during mostly warm to hot conditions)?

Here's what I did after my installation. I put in 1150 cc. Then I thought what the hell, let's see what happens. On the side stand I put in enough oil to fill to the top of the refill hole. Then I put my shoulder against the bike and pushed it up so it would uncompress the suspension and lean over some more and filled it up. Maybe added enough to have 1250 or a little more in. After a 40 mile street ride no oil was in the air box. That's about 10 miles at 60 and 10 at 50 to 55. Before the recirc kit I would have lubricated my boots and anyone behind me. More time will tell but I say fill it up. It shifts better, is quieter and you can put it in neutral all of which are vast improvements over stock.

Oh and 0W-40 Mobil 1 is what I use.

Thanks JRW. That's really interesting - if one was to overfill a motor vehicle's engine oil the increased pressure would cause all sorts of trouble. Is a bike's engine lubrication system designed differently?

Is 0W-40 the recommended engine oil spec in the US?

Start with 1150cc and work upward a little at at time. The engine is a dry sump. Mobil1 0W40 + stainless steel oil filter + magnetic oil filter cover is advised.

Cool. The owners manual for the TE449/511 says not run the bike for long periods at a steady speed. I'm hoping that the Oil Recirculation Kit will allow this. I'd like to be able to ride at 60-70 for a hundred miles or more at a time. I am also looking forward to easier shifting!!!

Just as an aside: The best service I have ever received from a retailer was from Sue at Zip-ty 3 days ago! My package arrives in 4 hrs from now!!! Feels like christmas has come early.

Not too sure about that, you might have to have taller sprockets for that.

Well I am totally frustrated with my 511. I installed the full Zip Ty oil recirc system and the thing still pumped oil into the air box. So I pulled the top hose, lengthened it and ran it up beside the steering head. Guess what, the thing is still pumping oil to the top of the hose. It is driving me NUTS!

How much oil do you have in your crankcase?

I'm not 100% sure. It had about 1000 mls and then I added maybe another 150 so its not overly full I don't think.

Stock gearing and running in the high rpm for long periods of time?

Extended high rpm is prone to oil pumping due to blow by gasses from the back of the piston. We see it mostly on commuter bikes. Try 1000cc first and if no oil is pumped, work your way up 50cc at a time.

Picture of hose setup if possible too so that I can verify everything is in order.

No extended high rpm or highway riding. Just short blasts of WFO throttle through the gears and then back off. I will take a pic of the hose setup tomorrow.

I look forward to seeing that picture. I've still got to install my recirc kit and I'm praying it will work!
Hey Tinken, I read in another thread that you replaced the airfilter box on your bike with that of the TXC's. Did the results show and can that be done on the TE449?

I replaced the air filter lid with a TC449 lid. Works great.

Can you explain what blow by gases are? I use my TE 449 as a dual purpose bike and after traveling at 60 mph for about 20min (I don'( believe that is very high RPM or a long time) I get oil pushing out. How is the recirc kit supposed to help with this problem - because one of the reasons I bought it was for that?

Me too. I guess street legal doesn't mean you can actually ride it on the street more than a couple of blocks. The ZipTy kit may have solved my problem, I still have to take the air box lid off after riding it a few times. Pressure builds up by gasses from combustion in the cylinder, blowing by the rings. Said pressure has to leave the cases, and on it's way out it carries oil in vapor form up to your air box. Then you get a free boot oiling, everyone behind you too. You can always only put about 800 cc of oil in, but if you want to have more to save the engine bits a kit (or at the least the vent) is highly recommended.

Thanks for the explanation and motivation guys. I'll be installing my kit this weekend and I'll definitely go by the book. If the instructions aren't clear I'll post on this thread for clarity. I'm going for a 5W-40 quality synthetic oil for its better shear and HSHP factor. I don't think it gets that cold over here to warrant 0W.