New Vintage 250 WR

900 blah blah blahs or less

Nice bike. My very first Husqvarna was a 83/ 250wr. I like the milk truck series. It's a big bike but that 250 moves it right along. When we compare them to the bikes of today.

Not sure what that means?

To the All The Way: Airborne! (82d 90 to 96)

Thanks for the clarification on Hosbach. I got the bike from Guidi. He had a handful of bikes he would have traded for my TE and told me a lot about each one but I forgot details of course and didn't want to pester him again.

I'm not sure if Mark restored it for him or he got it restored already.

Is there an owners manual online? Somewhere I can find out engine oil, plug gap, timing, how to adjust brakes correctly, etc?

I've not turned anything up.

2614 autolite if you find one this is the correct number
NGK work fine too

the gearbox takes 30 wt oil or atf - f, fill up to the join of the primary sprocket / clutch gear. about 1400 ml or so. ngk 8 racing is a good plug.

brakes, if twin leading, require the adjusting lever to put the brake pivots parallel to each other. check carefully. disassemble and grease the pivots with Bel Ray waterproof grease. lightly sand the shoes with sandpaper, you can line the drum with wet and dry to carve the shoes into the drum shape if its bad, there is a thread on here on how to do it. getting the pivots parallel is the key.

grease the back brake pivot shaft and sand the shoes.

run a good 2- oil (I like castor 927) at 40 to 1.

consider repacking the muffler. I like steel wool but packing is fine.

grease the throttle tube, cable run and pivot in the housing and also the lever pivots and cable ends for smoooooth operation.

check the inlet manifold for cracks.

check the shock pivots are well greased. particularly the bolts through the swingarm.

if the forks clunk, it will be the top out washers on the damper rods

make sure you get on top of the front wheel assembly as its easy to pinch the forks in at the bottom, making the action harsh.

that's it for quick and dirty husky ownership.

Look on the HVA factory website, there are manuals available online.

There's a special lube package for luring the cables. It's a aerosol can with a adapter. It forces the lube in the cable housing.

https://www.amazon.com/Protect-All-...89844&sr=8-11&keywords=cable luber motorcycle

I use a cut down tubular plug wrench from an old Jap bike tool kit. Any 22mm or 7/8" wrench will turn it.

The spark removal tool recommended earlier above from MSR works perfectly. Thanks for the recs. Haven't picked up a UV light yet as I had one and have torn apart the garage looking for it but can't find it. I'll get one this weekend.

I did find a trailer to haul with so I don't have to use a hitch mounted carrier (they work fine, I've hauled all over, but you have to use four tie downs to really get the bike secure and it blocks my rear door from opening). 1973 Swiss built military trailer. Found it in Kentucky. Unfortunately I have to have the tailgate down or put the bike in sideways, but it's a better option. Plus I can haul crap to the dump/pick up stuff at Home Depot, etc. And it matches the Husky

So what source do you guys use for new graphics? I only need to replace the race number graphics on both sides and the front headlight area. Those aren't stick on vinyl 900s, but they seem to be part of the yellow graphic itself (which is very thick).