New guy , old question can chain tensioner info !

Discussion in '610/630' started by Webbo610sm, Jul 31, 2014.

  1. Webbo610sm Husqvarna

    Location:
    West london
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 sm610ie
    Other Motorcycles:
    Gsxr 750 k6
    Hi all

    I'm new to the husky world and have just picked up a 08 sm610ie bikes in pretty great shape with only 4k on it but I have heard a creaking cracking type noise when the bikes under heavy load , for example a hard acceleration in too high of a gear ,I can only assume it's engine or drive train related my other theory is my floating rear disc causing it ?! It's my first single just come from an 06 gsxr 750 ! Have scared myself googling seeing a lot about the cam chains needing replacing so I thought it best to check the clicks on my cct but for the life of me I can't see how to do it in the manual ... I work on BMW cars for a living and maybe am Over thinking this whole thing but if I were to remove a tensioner from a BMW I would ensure the timing was set and locked using timing tools as the timing turns when the tensioner is removed so does the engine need to be set to any specific position or is it a case off switch the engine off take out the centre bolt remove the spring remove the 8 mms count the notches reset to zero reinstall the tensioner and 8 mms reinstall the spring then the centre bolt ? Also heard people saying they can't get the centre bolt back with the spring etc any tips pics guides links to a guide or just any info on how to do it would be great if there's a guide I can't seem to find it have done numerous searchs so please forgive me if I've missed it ! I'm sure this would have been asked before !

    Many thanks

    Charlie
  2. Borgschulze Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 TE 610
    Other Motorcycles:
    2004 Yamaha WR450
    The guys who can't get the center bolt and spring back in are a little ham fisted...

    To make things much easier, just remove the exhaust where the dual headers meet the mid pipe, will save you a huge headache.

    But yes, turn the engine to TDCC, remove center bolt, remove outer two bolts, count notches.

    Another thing to check, since some report having many clicks without reed damage, is to remove the left engine cover, and inspect the reed valve retainer plate.
  3. Webbo610sm Husqvarna

    Location:
    West london
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 sm610ie
    Other Motorcycles:
    Gsxr 750 k6
    Thanks very much for your reply so the engine needs to be a tdc that's fine are you just gauging that with a rod In the spark plug hole or do people generally remove the engine cover or cam cover and align any timing marks ? Really appreciate your advice didn't wanna pull the tensioner and mess the timing and potentially need a rebuild through my own error !
  4. Theo Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lombardy, Italy
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SM 610 I.E.
    Other Motorcycles:
    2001 YZ250
    I have a 2008 610, too and I found out that the engine is at tdc when the two dots on the cranksahaft gear and on the counter-shaft gear are aligned.
    In this photo, I was pulling the piston rod towards the top, so the engine was at TDC.[IMG]
  5. Webbo610sm Husqvarna

    Location:
    West london
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 sm610ie
    Other Motorcycles:
    Gsxr 750 k6
    Thanks for the pics and info ! Really appreciate ur help
  6. blueknob Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 te610
    Other Motorcycles:
    1979 harley davidson superglide
    i see no reason to set engine at tdc to check the tensioner, anyone care to explain?
    Xcuvator and Theo like this.
  7. Borgschulze Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2007 TE 610
    Other Motorcycles:
    2004 Yamaha WR450
    Cam lobe can shift and the chain could jump a tooth.
  8. Stroker Ace Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Checked mine every oil change, never needed to do the TDC, when you turn off the engine it's going to stop itself under compression anyway, so that's close enough for me. When you re-install the center bolt, take a small screwdriver or something similar. Push the rod in VERY CAREFULLY about 4 clicks. I practiced a few times while it was out, this will make the spring and bolt much, much easier to install. For example, mine is out 7 clicks, when I re-install it, I push the rod in 5 clicks, the spring and bolt go in with little effort, then listen for the remaining clicks when you tighten the bolt, then you know you're good. Be careful then hit the trail!!

    Happy Trails.....