I'm creeping up on that, going a step or 2 at a time each time I take it out. Haven't had a good, free, cool afternoon to putter around with the 6x to find the best combination of settings. Saturday I will test the TE ECU, turn my stock cans into flow-throughs and then do some tuning with the 6x.
Yes. IIRC it's the Red/Blue setting. I've cranked it all the way up to 7 on my SM630. It really reduced the lag between whacking the throttle and the RPMs.
So I just installed the JD unit on my bike! Went with the recommended settings, so far not too dramatically different except that the torque dip at around 4,000 rpm seems to be gone! I thought it would be nice if everyone listed their related mods and then the settings they're using that work well in a standard format so others can quickly see who has a similar setup to theirs and set their JD unit accordingly. Not that these settings are the best for my mods but you can copy the format and edit as needed: Mods: ECU - USA SMS version Airbox - maze removed, no additional holes, snorkel still in place Power Up - yes Lambda Sensor - no Exhaust - Leo Vince full system JD Settings: Green - 3/4 Yellow - 4 Red - 3 Green/Blue - 3/4 Yellow/Blue - 4 Red/Blue - 4/5
Wait after you have holes in the airbox. The dramatic difference will be there I'll set up my Power Surge on a dyno tomorrow or next week. I'll post my settings afterwards
Cool! I see in the other thread that you drilled 5 holes in the airbox that I can see. I imagine there are more under the side cover? What size holes and how many total?
Does anyone know how the stock map works? I was reading the JD instructions in more detail and it occured to me that the yellow/blue setting may be critical. The yellow/blue setting supposedly controls at what RPM the surge from low to mid takes place. Getting the JD unit to surge at the same time the stock map is requiring more fuel seems important....or at least before the stock map needs more fuel. If the JD unit does not provide a surge of fuel at a time when the bike needs it, there will be a torque dip, right? And if the JD unit is providing more fuel before it needs it, it will be running too rich and may sputter, right? Anyways, while my bike was getting it's 600 mi service the dealer called me and asked if he could drill holes into my airbox. I said "sure!" Before I took the bike in for service I was happy because I had fixed a torque dip that had developed at about 4k RPM after installation of the leo vince. But then after he drilled the holes my bike wasn't happy anymore. It had a torque dip at about 5k RPM. Pulled over, pushed a few buttons, and fixed it! I'm not saying my bike is running optimally right now, but if you are thinking about getting a JD unit go ahead and pull the trigger! It's really sweet to be able to pull over and tweak your bike at any time!
So whats the deal Rocko, would you say that drilling holes in the airbox is a must do as part of getting the SM sorted, just like Power Up is a must do ? As i am considering this. Anyway, I found that having the Tuner under my seat wasn't flying so I put it on my handle bars where I could access and keep and eye on it while riding . So after a nights riding with the Tuner on the bars I got a must better insight into what is going on. First, when riding it looks like the Tuners' lights flash in accordance with the bikes TPS and how wide the throttle grip has been opened as to wether you are in low throttle, mid range or full throtle position and how deep into those ranges you are - VERY Interesting and VERY VERY usefull. I emailed James Dean to confirm that the flashing lights do infact mimic the TPS and the ECU map and to a large extent they do but there are other factors involved such as RPM's and power levels ( apparently it's complicated, it always is, isn't it ? ) I also noticed, that whileriding the bike: 1) One spends a lot of time in Green Mode, more than one would think. 2) Green-Blue or Idle mode is more important than I initially thought because comming off throttle from Green mode and then lightly comming on throttle again, the bike will start off in idle mode and stay there untill the throttle is opened wider. Also slowing down in say Green mode and then lugging a bit hard, the bike momentarily switches into Idle mode. In all of these situations Idle mode needs to be strong / rich enough to power the bike while riding / lugging. I now view Idle mode as important as Green mode for normal low speed riding 3) Comming off throttle from speed and closing the throttle grip completely, the bike stays in Green mode - not in idle as you would expect. It is important to ensure the smooth transition from Idle mode to Green mode and vice versa as they interchange a lot and this affects your lower speed / on - off throttle riding experience. So I richend Idle mode and it improved the lower speed / on - off throttle riding experience. With the Tuner on the Bars I am now experimenting a lot more and next I would like to experiment with the Yellow Blue mode next Lets use this thread to share our experineces and flatten the learning curve.
Rocko, The yellow/ blue setting on your JD tuner determines when the fuel map transitions from low (green) to mid range (yellow). There is no surge or additional fuel added with that setting. The number 1 switches from low to mid range early and the number 8 switches the latest. Look in the instructions that came with the unit or on JD's web site. The graph that shows all the ranges and settings is helpful to understand how the unit works. Btw, setting each zone to the number 3 is what the bike's ECU puts out without the JD tuner. In other words, selecting 3 in each zone is essentially the OEM bike settings. In each zone, anything higher than 3 is richer and lower than 3 is leaner. The only exception is the yellow/ blue setting. There is no fuel adjustment just when the transition takes place from low to mid. Adjust, ride and write down your settings. You cannot make a wrong adjustment or risk harming the engine with any settings according to JD's web site. Too lean and the bike may run a bit hot...too rich and the bike will just waste fuel. I drilled out my air box, removed the snorkel and added fuel in the mid and high ranges until there was no more power. The bike really benefits from more air and fuel. Keep riding and adjusting, you'll find what works best for you. Worst case call James Dean from JD Jetting. He is a great guy to speak with and was extremely helpful to me. Good luck!
Great info! I think I'll try mounting the unit on the bars at least while I'm setting my bike up... I have seen a lot of data showing that we are usually at lower throttle positions than we think and rarely at WOT so what you are finding makes a lot of sense! As for whether or not opening the airbox more is a must do, I will tape up the new holes on my airbox and go back to the previous JD settings, ride...then quickly take the tape off and go to my new settings and see if I feel a power difference. It's hard for me to say right now if there was a difference pre and post drilling holes because like I said, when I got back on I noticed a newly developed torque dip so I was more focused on fixing that. However I may not have enough holes to get the full effect, all of my holes are still under the side panel and not visible. Others have opened their airboxes with more holes than I have so maybe I can add more air still.
The airbox mod is definitely a must-do. My bike got way more agressive after putting holes in the airbox.
In an effort to be more scientific I calculated the surface area of the holes in my airbox that are letting air in. that way we can quantify how "open" my airbox is. Everyone has the hole that the snorkel is connected to so we don't need to measure that. The dealer drilled five holes that have a 7/8" diameter (7/16" radius). The area of each hole is about 0.6 square inches. Therefore I have about 3 square inches of holes that were drilled into my airbox. So if you are going to list how open your airbox is, you can do the following calculation: measure the diameter of each hole you have drilled in inches. Divide that number by two and put that number in this link: http://www.calculateme.com/cArea/AreaOfCircle.htm whatever the answer is, multiply that number by the amount of holes you have drilled. This is the total area of holes you have drilled. Mods: ECU - USA SMS version Airbox - maze removed, 3 square inches of holes drilled Power Up - yes Lambda Sensor - no Exhaust - Leo Vince full system JD Settings: Green - 3/4 Yellow - 4 Red - 3 Green/Blue - 3/4 Yellow/Blue - 4 Red/Blue - 4/5
I was on the dyno today. Got 54 PS and 61 NM. We didn't have enough time though, so we could only do 3 runs. It looks like the stock exhaust is the bottleneck on my bike (surprise ), so it didn't gain much in the upper RPM range. Sadly I started adjusting Red first and then realized at the 3rd run that there wasn't much to gain anymore. Green and yellow up and yellow/blue down seems to make big improvements though. Mods: ECU - EU SMS Airbox opened PU Kit no lambda sensor stock exhaust (for now ) JD Settings: G - 4 Y - 5/6 (made better NM after setting this higher.. had 4/5 before) R - 5/6 (lost 1 PS after setting it to 6/7 so this seems to be maximum with stock pipes) GB - 3/4 (no changes) YB - 2 RB - 8 I think YB can be set to 1 and RB to 8 without any negative side effects. I will try higher settings on G and Y later. With free flowing pipes you can probably go even higher with R.
Our bikes have a 45mm throttle body so try for a minimum of 2 times that size in the air box opening. I'd say even more because the stock air box opening isn't lined up with the throttle body inlet. If you end up in very rainy conditions just tape up the holes. I drilled all my holes behind the side panel so the bike still looks stock. Remove the air box cover and drill from the inside. This way you can avoid disrupting the air filter support tabs. I have drilled 9 x 3/4'' holes along with the snorkel removed. This combo with twin Leo Vince Enduro slip-ons and JD tuner works great for me. Each bike requires its own set up based on intake and exhaust mods. Keep us posted with your results.
Hey Ketek, What is your approximate Altitude above sea level ? What Fuel grade are you running ? What was the approximate air temperature when you did the dyno run ? What was the relative humidity in the air - high / med / low ? All of the above are important in determining the relevance of your test results to my environment. / circumstances.
keep in mind, he has the eu ecu, we don't know the difference in timing curves if any, thats the other variable.
Timing, timing... it sits in the back of my mind that we have no control over that. It could very well be the missing link. I also have the EU ECU on both my SM and TE.
