• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Neutral issues.

Andyman is the first picture of the shift shaft and does it slide all the way through the case as long as you take the shifter off?
Thanks Bill
 
Yes, I believe that to be the case Bill. I did not take it out (although I should have!). I will reference the manual and confirm (assuming I can find it).
 
OK guys the shift shaft simply slides all the way out once you take the shift lever off.
The plate that develops the bur is the one in the second pic and it burs the inside (non visable edge)
When this is the problem - you can get neutral fine when the motor is off, when the motor is cold. It is only a problem when the motor is running and at temp.
You will know this is the problem as when the bike is at temp motor running and stationary it will semi jam 1st to second and the second to first shifts, which make it impossible to select neutral.
This fix works but is only tempory as the problem has come back on my bike.
To fix perminently the plate needs to be replaced with a new one.
 
Paul B said:
OK guys the shift shaft simply slides all the way out once you take the shift lever off.
The plate that develops the bur is the one in the second pic and it burs the inside (non visable edge)
When this is the problem - you can get neutral fine when the motor is off, when the motor is cold. It is only a problem when the motor is running and at temp.
You will know this is the problem as when the bike is at temp motor running and stationary it will semi jam 1st to second and the second to first shifts, which make it impossible to select neutral.
This fix works but is only tempory as the problem has come back on my bike.
To fix perminently the plate needs to be replaced with a new one.
Click to expand...

This might be an issue with my 08 TXC250 bike ... Its been hard to get in neutral for many many miles with the engine running ...
 
Paul B - it sounds like after you fixed it, the plate burred again causing the same problem. This tells me the metal is too soft, but maybe they do that on purpose for another reason??? I once took a trigger assembly out of a Ruger Mark I pistol and removed about 1/16" of it and then re-welded it back together to make it shorter so my trigger pull wasn't so long. While the metal was still red-hot, I quickly dipped it into motor oil, pulled it out and let it smoke, dipped it again, and repeated the process until the metal was cool. My Dad said this was how "oil hardening" of metal was done. I don't know if Dad was completely on target there - many specialists here on the forum can confirm or deny that, but what I do know was when I was done, I had a very difficult time filing the excess metal from the trigger because it was soooo hard....and the real proof was that it was done 31 years ago with a few thousand rounds through the gun and it's never failed. Maybe this could be done to the plate in question after filing the burr off??? Any thoughts???
 
Hi MChammer, your right on the money about the oil hardening.
I believe that it has burred again. I have been led to believe that this plate is left in its mild state so that it can deform the way that it has.
Aparently if you try to shift while the box is uner great load the shift rachet mech. presses against this plate so that the plate takes most of the load instead of the gearbox. if you do it too many times the end result is that the plate deforms perminently ie burrs. As I am fairly hard on the bike I much prefure the neutral issue rather that snapping the doggs off of first or second gears.
If anyone else can confirm or deny these claims pleas efeel free to let me know.
 
So I just went through the IPB and it is not real clear in the text if the clutch assy has to be removed to get to the shift plate. From pictures it appears you can get at it just fine, but other pictures do not insteal alot of confidance. does anyone have an answer?
 
I've been experiencing the same with my new TE449, but only when its cold. Once it warms up it fine. I'm in the process of breaking the engine in.
 
I finally got around to taking my friends 2008TE205 apart for the hard shifting and neutral being hard to find problem. I did find a few small burrs on the back side of the plate and filed and buffed it smooth. When I was taking it apart the ratchet assembly popped apart and the dogs came out on me,there are some indents in the dogs does any one know which way they is the correct way they go back? Do the indents go against the spring and poppet or against the sprocket as this is what the parts book calls it,I cant find any thing in the manual about this assembly. I also found that you can't get the shift shaft all the way out unless you remove the motor or tip it forward as the frame will stop the shift shaft from coming all the way out.
Thanks Bill
 
Bill502 said:
I also found that you can't get the shift shaft all the way out unless you remove the motor or tip it forward as the frame will stop the shift shaft from coming all the way out.
Thanks Bill
Click to expand...

The 2008 frame must be different as I didn't have any problems removing the shift shaft on my 09 310
 
Another thing to think about for those that have put aftermarket clutches in, the depth of the new clutch pack compared to oem. In some cases a difference causes the clutch to drag or not engage enough. Solution: shorten clutch push rod if its dragging or add Shims between the clutch release pin and throwout bearing.

The issue with the plate is somethin I haven't seen but I'm gonna look at my bikes and see what I find.

Another issue I ran into with the shift plate referred to above was aligning it. When I putting together an engine last, I could not for the life of me figure out why it was struggling to shift. It could shift up but not down, and it would only go into 2nd then drop back out and into neutral or first as soon as i let off the throttle. It turns put the plate had enough alignment in the mounting holes that if moved in a certain direction and tightened down the ratchet mechanism wouldn't work right. so I had to move it around with the bolts slightly loose until everything moved as it should. So make sure you check the function on the ratchet mechanism before you finish assembling the side cover. Mine might be an exception but its worth double checking to avoid future headaches
:thumbsup:
 
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