Need Help Making '88 XC250 Street Legal

I just got my first Husky bike, a 1988 XC 250. She's in pretty mint shape for the most part and came with a bunch of the original paperwork which is pretty cool. I'm planning to try and make it a street legal dual sport and from what I can tell the European versions of this bike came pretty much street legal from the factory with a speedo and brake light already set up. So I'm wondering, how hard would it be to just get some of the euro plastics and rig up a speedo and brake light on the US version that I have? Or is there an easier way I could go about getting her on the road? Also since this is my first husky, are there any big problems with these bikes that I should look at? Any help would be appreciated

Brake light switches, 1 on the master and a pull type switch with a spring on the peddle. Mirror and a horn.
DOT tires and the right sticker on the frame helps. I had to wire up signal lights with a battery to get my inspection done, then i removed them. Should have a steering lock for anti theft if it was meant to be, but mine doesn't.

Its was a pain for me but after that its been a blast.
88 250

some states are a little more lenient Arizona topping the list
some are impossible

86 400 XC,

Would you take a photo of your rear brake pull switch mounting and post it? I'm in the process of installing one and would like to see how you installed yours (though mine is a '86).

Thanks,

I have see the correct set up and this is close to it and works well.
The switch is held on the back bone of the frame with a zip tie.
The peddle mount is more my own design, stock is just a tab with a hole.




Sorry the pics are a 1/4 turn off

as far as the bike goes, the biggest issue for those models is the rear linkage and the pivot bolt through the swingarm, wearing and elongating the holes in the frame and the cases. make sure its well greased and check the tension on that bolt. i would "go through" the bike starting at checking the front wheel bearings and check the tube and replace the rubber spoke protector with 2 - 3 turns of duct tape to cover the spoke nipples. then i would pull the forks and headstem out. check the headstem bearings, the lower one will be rusty more like. replace and grease with BEL RAY waterproof grease. drain and dissassemble the forks for a good clean. check the seals and damping bits and pieces. if its all good, put them back together. oil the cables and grease the handlebar pivots of the levers and throttle body. pull the tank off, pull the airbox out. get a new airfilter, strip and clean the carb carefully put it all backtogether. use bel ray airfilter oil is my recommendation. clean the tank out carefully. strip the rear linkage and and swingarm and inspect for wear. grease heavily and reassemble. grease the rear brake pivot in the backing plate, rear wheel bearings and check the roller bearings in the tensioners. last but not least, repack the muffler with fresh packing.

change the coolant and the gearbox oil and away you go

do all this and it will last for 5+ years with minimal maintenance (airfilter and gearbox oil change)

great advice, right down to the bel ray grease and filter oil.

Thanks for all the info! I just got a complete parts catalog and engine manual for the bike too so I'll definitely tear into it and look everything over. Also I looked into it more and here in Vermont the laws aren't too bad. As far as I can tell I'll just need to rig up some brake light switches, get a mirror, DOT tires, and maybe a horn. Shouldn't be too hard to get her on the road, I'll keep this thread updated while I'm working on it.

Great advice surprize, the only things I respectfully add through personal experience are:
Check or replace your water pump seal and shaft(and o'ring) before you end up with coolant in your transmission
Replace both small needle rollers on kickstarter and idler gear
Use a folding lever tip from a later model bike, eg DRZ400 alloy tip is a bolt on.
Check ignition timing with a dial guage, too much advance causing kickback can destroy crankcases and clutch covers, too little and it will not perform well.
Check your rubber inlet manifold for cracking, causing air leaks and lean seizes
Check that the little rubber kickstart stop is in place, preventing clutch cover damage
Make sure the plastic steering stops are in good condition
Test or replace the radiator cap to prevent coolant loss, causing overheating
I hope this helps.
Tony.

im thinking i will do a word doc so i can just cut and paste this info in everytime someone get s a bike to do up

Well I pulled the front end apart and the wheel and steering stem bearings need some grease but otherwise they're mint. I also disassembled the forks and just about everything looks good, the seals and scrapers were just a little rough so I got those ordered. Next I'm probably gonna get some fresh oil and coolant and check out my water pump seals. In my engine manual it says to use 1.4 liters of SAE 20 for the WR and CR 250's but it doesn't show anything for the XC. I'm assuming all three bikes have basically the same engine though so would 1.4 liters be correct for the XC as well? Also I always run 10w40 in my honda bikes so would that work for the husky or should I go with the SAE 20 like it says in the manual? Or do you guys have any other oil recommendations? I know right now it's full of ATF from the previous owner.

atf - f is a recognised oil for the husky along with a 20 wt (briggs and stratton oil) Huskys are pretty much a swap shop btw the engines. the bottom ends are common with only the gear ratios different. CR = Close ratio - MX, WR = wide ratio - enduro while XC = cross country a mix of the cr and wr gears (american desert market)...obviously the cr has a different top end and electrical system for the track vs the enduro powerplant.

with the forks, check the plastic damping washers for any marks or indents. they are notorious for failing just after you put them back together . the forks top out with a clunk when they fail. best to get on to Phil and flick a new set in.

when reassembling them, dont do up the bolt in the bottom of the forks until you have the tube fully bottomed in the slider, springs out. this centres the damping cone. then tighten them up. also refitting the wheel back in the bike, once the axle is tightened up, check the fork for parallel. measure just under the fork wiper. and just above the wheel making sure the forks are parrallel. its easy to pinch the forks in or have them spreading out which makes the forks harsh.

go to it

what or where did you fit a battery and size?

The bike shop requested signals and said take them right after, so it was temporary.
I took out a battery from a 09 310 H that was in my yard. Put it on its side in a look a like tool bag (black purse with straps) ,on the fender rack i made.

cool...

Hi Are you able to provide some closer photos of your fender rack &* how you made it. Looks great! Thanks, Jon

Sure. Its just mild steel, welded on the bottom for neatness.
3/16 brake line tubing for the round stuff. lol all about what i had laying the garage at the time.
I still have it on the bike. Last pic was 3 days ago.