My words of Husqvarna Wisdom

That is exactly what I do, I can get 90 octane non-ethanol and I mix it with Sunoco 110 leaded (just because thats the brand my local supplier carries, any plain leaded 110 would work equally well) 1 gallon of Sunoco to 2 gallons of pump, its a waste to run the race fuel straight. You could also use 100LL AV gas with the same results but I would mix it 50/50. This gives me a very consistent fuel with around 97-99 octane. The air cooled bikes were sold at a time when you could get 99 octane leaded at every gas station, so that is what they are set up to run.

I'm using blendzall castor oil right now. I have some blendzall octane booster too but I haven't mixed it in yet. I'm mixed at one pint of blendzall to four gallons of high test gas.

does the lead help a 2 stroke? is it worth seeking?

Two strokes dont need lead but unleaded race fuels are much more expensive than leaded and I am trying to get 98-99 octane the least expensive way possible. In 2000 I was racing jet skis and the sanctioning body mandated unleaded fuel. The unleaded race fuels were limited to 100-104 octane and were almost twice the price of 110 leaded.

Does the 2t need leaded fuel? I believe the only thing that lead did was to cushion the valves when they hit the valve seats. With the stellite valves and with the hardened seats the problem was solved. But I don't see where the lead helps the 2t?

The days of running Sunoco 260 in my race car. The days of the high compression engines are gone in muscle cars.

In my post right above yours, the first 5 words are "Two strokes dont NEED lead", but it isnt going to hurt anything either. In addition to cushioning valves, tetraethyl lead is an octane booster. Unleaded race fuel tops out at 103-104 octane and is much higher cost per gallon than leaded. Air cooled bikes were set up for 98-99 octane that was available at the pump when they were sold new and the cheapest way to get there today is a mix of either 110 race fuel or 100LL AV gas mixed with pump.

thanks for the info kartwheel. sounds like a good plan

No problem. I know people who run straight race gas or AV gas but its overkill, mixing with non-ethanol pump gets you a consistent reliable fuel and a good safety margin from detonation for the least cost. I have found that the mix of race/pump has other advantages that I didnt anticipate, the jetting seems to be much less sensitive to altitude and temperature changes, the exhaust outlet is dry and dark grey instead of wet and black, and there seems to be no carbon buildup on the combustion chamber. I think the water cooled bikes probably dont need anything but pump fuel, they run at a much more consistent temperature, but the air cooled bikes for sure are more "happy" and run cooler and cleaner with the mix.

youre probably right, my 88 has always been very steady and non tempermental, just running pump premium. never have had plug problems or anything like that. i wonder what the shelf life is on leaded race fuel?

I have been running Sunoco 115 octane leaded race fuel mixed at 20% with our super unleaded (97 octane) pump gas. I use it in all my bikes (2 stroke & four). The 390 Husky has had the same spark plug for two years, and still going strong. I never got that with regular straight unleaded. It also seems to run better. I have done nearly 1000 miles on the same piston and ring too.
As I am too lazy to go get a gallon of cheap stuff for the strimmer and lawn mower, they get race fuel too. The strimmer gets a quick drain from the husky, and the mower gets straight petrol from either the Kawasaki or CCM.

I am picky too about two stroke oil. Not wishing to stir the oil debate, but I have always used Silkolene Comp 2. The new stuff they make (says suitable for oil injection) is rubbish. Too thin, and made the bike run horrible. I managed to buy the original thicker Comp 2 (only in 5L cans now) and normal service was resumed.

I would never run Avgas as it is designed as a slow burning fuel for aircraft that only rev to about 3K maximum. The flame front is too slow for a modern (ish) two or four stroke. Just my two pennies worth ....

I purchased a bottle of blendzall octane booster but I haven't added it yet to my tank.

I use my left over 2t in all my power equipment but my husky chainsaws I only use the husky 2t oil in them. All my tractors get some 2t mix in them to lube the valves and to keep the piston rings free.

When you mix AV gas with the pump gas that is no longer a problem, the pump fuel speeds up flame front. The end result with race or AV gas is the same, the only difference with AV gas is you have to mix more than you would with 110-115 race fuel.

If you race with AV fuel they won't bother you in the tech inspection?

At the fairs when competition with chainsaws speed cutting. One guy used AV fuel and got caught because of the exhaust smell. He lost anyway but the smell of the exhaust raised the interest.

I dont know anything about chainsaw competition, but I cant imagine why it would be illegal other than having lead in it. AV gas is legal for all motorcycle competition except where unleaded fuel is required. Why is AV gas illegal in chainsaw competition?

When I worked at a local airport in the early 80's Avgas came in two octanes 110LL (110 octane) and 130LL (130octane) and because it was sampled daily for water and particulate contamination we were not allowed to sell it for any other purpose (powerboat, grasstrack, etc) because we had to guarantee storage for aviation use.

This is why you need to make first gear spring cover/ retainers if you intend running your Auto.

It was a stock saw competition only. At a local fair. I guess anything other than a stock saw using a local gas station pump gas was considered cheating. You could run any ratio mix. I competed with a husky 2100 100cc saw with the larger drive sprocket, the rakers set at .090" for cutting pine. I did two cuts down, two cuts up, bored two thru holes without breaking out, then one cut up and one cut down in a 10" x10" square timber in 17 1/2 seconds using a 16" bar.

I liked this setup so much I used a standard chisel chain with the 16" bar on one of my 100cc saws when felling and bucking up the smaller hardwood trees. Being super fast was great for cutting in 10 degree weather. The 100cc saw with the shorter bar showed the wood no mercy. She chewed through everything.

The first time I left the spike on the power head and when I bored the holes with the rakers set deep they pulled the bar into the bore so fast they stuck the spike in the wood. I removed the spike after that.

Really? Your saying metallurgy hasnt improved over the last five years let alone ten or thirty I cry bs on that, tighter tolerances and better machining alone. Bearing company's have more than a reputation to uphold.

The worn loose crank bearing on the ignition side it what causes the seal to go. The seal becomes brittle with age then the loose bearing finishes it off. Do a leak down test after the reassembly. When I do the refresh I find the crank bearings are worn out. I install new crank bearings, new seals and gaskets, new piston and rings.

We did mention there are different ratings on the same bearing. Some have more balls in the cage.

When gas fills up the crankcase it eats the base gasket. Gas is very abrasive. Ever leave a wheel cylinder cup from doing a brake job on a car over night in gas? It swells up fifty times it's normal size. Gas can have different effects on everything.

kartwheel is mostly right. its hard to find the same quality. plus there are many forgeries that look 95% like the real thing. its crazy. i think you can still luck into good ones tho. for some reason its hard to find bearings that have as many balls as the original skf that came in the swedes. i have quite a few engine cases and it is not very common to find bad bearings once you wash and re-oil them. they are almost always tight and smooth.
unlike a cagiva with 2 large single roller bearings, one on each side of the crank, the swede was a bit weird having 2 single row bearings side by side on the drive side and a single large double row roller bearing on the ignition side. it could be the style of these makes it hard to find new equivalents. pretty overkill but i like it