My ideas, to keep him happy on brand, is either a 105,125 or 150 ktm. My feelings are if i sell his honda 150r and but a 105 its only a few inches taller and a year later im buying a bigger bike. I realize a 150xc is 30-40lb heavier but he could grow into it. No more Harescambles for a while till he can ride with bigger bike and survive without me around to pick it up. But, if i went 150, how can i get it tamed or shortened for first year so its not overwhelming? I want him to like riding and not be discouraged by not feeling in control? Any ideas guys?
Honestly I'd buy the bike based on skill level rather then growing into. Why a 150? Go with the 125 and add that later. I'd imagine you just do the normal shortening stuff, seat, suspension... As far as power the new tc125 16+ has the powervalve springs to change around and maybe send the motor to someone to have the power delivery changed. They also have flywheel weights for them to make it more manageable
IS IT THE BIG WHEEL MODEL? I M GUESS NOT AJP PR 3 OR 3.5 OR STEP UP ALL THE WAY UP TO A 125 2T IF YOU THINK THE 2T PART MIGHT AN ISSUE OR YOU DONT NEED THE LATEST N GREATEST YOU MIGHT LOOK FOR A CRF/TTR230 OR AN OLDER DR200 ALSO IF VINTAGE IS OK AND YOU CAN FIND ONE YAMAHA MX 175G AND OR IT125/175 G/Hs WOULD BE WORKABLE IF YOU WANT TO TRY 2Ts WITH SCARING THE HELL OUT OF'EM
Add an extra gasket either in the base or the head, get a domino white throttle tube as those are the slow action. I use them on the trials bike. You could also make a seat out of ply wood and an old foam pillow or matress ive been using an orthopaedic matress i hacked up about 5 years ago, that may lower the seat height. If you have a wide selection of tyres for the 150's then go for the one with the lowest profile e.g. 140/90/18 is taller than a 140/80/18 as 140 is width 90-80 is the precentage of the width that the tyre side wall is tall. An well the 18 is rim size. Im a mear 5:7 and that is by far the most cost effective way of lowering a bike.
old drum brakes are fine and most would agree yamahas were the best its just that new disk brakes are soooo much better they spoiled us just reach out there with three fingers grab a big handful and SQUEEZE
The kids and wife love the IT. ZipTy was able to rebuild the leaking rear shock so it's got a whole bunch of fun to give.
How tall is he and what build? I'd say get him on a 125 if he's tall enough to start it and big enough to pick it up off the ground.
Never heard of the 220? Adjustable? Yes great idea. I had same body growing up, tall and lean, fitting a bike meant heavy and lots of HPs. I think im going to skip KTM105 and go straight to 150 and just pull him out of his HS class and just trail ride it untill he can handle the weight in tight woods. I want him on a 2T for woods racing down road
there was also a kdx 250 but was ill fated. lots of kdx bikes around for a good value, both 200 and 220. some i talk to like the 200 best.
The slightly larger displacement 220 was almost identical to the 200 but had a smaller carb and more bottom end than the 200.
Yes Dirtdame i looked up specs, very nice bike actually, 10lb heavier than ktm150 but has lights on her, thanks
We sent out the carb and bored it out to a 37mm from the orginal 36mm on the 220 KDX. BOTH THE KDX200 and 220 are awesome woods bikes. At one time all the top NETRA riders were on kdx200's. Then the orange 200's started showing up. But there are many used affordable kdx200/220's around. There's a famous KDX racer from canada I got the tips from him. I also rewrapped the lighting coil with more turns of thinner copper wire so we could use the double bulb after market headline. It's much brighter. Search for, " mr KDX". Jeff Fredette My sons very first NETRA race with the 220kdx he was 11th. The next race he was 6th. We find the 220 is in the 250 cc class. In some areas of the trails the 220 is faster and in other areas the 250 is faster. A good skilled rider on the 220 can win. It's not my English it's my spell check that changes words. Sorry.
