Metric and imperial fasteners, it's a unwritten rule.

I spend all my working life around many thread forms as we manufacture for the motorsport industry. The various types of thread out there are mind boggling ! A brilliant little book is the "Machinery's Hand-Book". You can pick older ones up from auction sites very cheap. This will list all the thread forms you can think of .... and then some. Great for masses of other information too. All 2500 pages of it

And for those who felt a need to have a vintage British machine in their stable, there is BSF (British Standard Fine), BSC (British Standard Cycle)also known as CEI (Cycle Engineer's Institute) I think, along with BSW (Whitworth).

Lol you guys crack me up, I use bsf daily they are sub axle nut threads.
Unf is our seat belt mounts unc are Landover.
Metric on all bikes.
American acme threads are different to our acme threads... wtf
Oh whitworth are used on our older English cars.

whitworth on british firearms too..my british enfield .303 guns are..

Lol having to have a severely good reason to own a fire arm and a licence, I have no experience of whit on guns. So will take your word for it

I never thought about that before. My Enfield was one of my greatest rifle purchases.

I recently got a 1 1/2hr lesson on boring a Motorcycle Cylinder. Do to my addiction to Machine Tools I'm starting to search for a Boring Bar of my own. In the USA the 3 main brands were Kwik Way, Van Norman and Rottler. The Gentleman who showed me how He does it has done so many he can convert Metric to Inch's in his Head. All of these Tools use a specific Micrometer that is made for that Machine and there are no Metric Mics available. So the forever conversion from Metric to Inch's. So in Europe ( Excluding England) Boring bars must of been made using the Metric System. What Brands of Boring Bars were used in Europe ?

http://www.cutwel.co.uk/lathe-tools.../boring-bars?gclid=CInGv7uZpc8CFSQz0wodRNMNtA

Can't imagine it makes any difference the tip of the tool is absolute zero, the only thing you measure is how much you take off. So it's your machine or your measurements that change. No?

https://jet.com/product/detail/a786...15&gclid=CODltZ6rpc8CFUymNwodKlIF1Q&gclsrc=ds

I use these gear driven hones for decades. The cylinders come out perfectly round with zero taper if you understand how it works. I have a complete set of stones for each size hone. For going up one piston size it's perfect if the cylinder isn't too scored.

You can also checkout,,,,,www.goodson.com too.

I had a complete shop and was doing valve jobs and engine building.

So its just a round circle so it really doesn't matter if its done in inch's or metric. There are quit a number of ways to do this. Since all the American made Boring bars are in Inch's, to use one at some point You need to convert the Metric Piston and Cylinder size to Inches'. A Digital Bore Gauge inside and outside Mics easily do this conversion for You. As You take each Cut with the Boring Bar the amount will need to be in Inch's. To Me, somebody who is prone to making mistakes, I would find it easier if it was just all Metric.

The Link looks to me to be a copy of a Sunnen Hone. I have yet to tackle the Honing portion of the Job I'm looking into the Boring Bar first. I realize that to go from one Piston size to another I can probably just Hone it out to the next size. Problem is when I seem to ruin a Piston and Cylinder I seem to destroy the Liner. My 84 AC 250 has been in a shop getting a Liner made for 10 months now. The last Race of the Vintage Series I race is this weekend. I have missed every race this year. Finding people to replace Liners is getting harder and harder.

Know where to buy a liner is important as well. The new owner of www.huskydoggg.com likely inherited all of Steve's inventory and that included OEM and some LA Sleeves cylinder liners. You can also directly contact LA Sleeve themselves

In my experience with boring cylinders I always have the piston in hand for measurements. From this point on it really doesn't matter what units you choose to work with. You have a measured cylinder size and you have a desired size to match your piston. I was always taught to bore to piston size then hone for clearance. There are multiple acceptable methods for these processes typically dependent on the equipment on hand. For instance in one shop where I worked we had an extensive honing station; we didn't bore cylinders at this shop. If a big bore (think massive over bore) job came in then that job was subbed out. At another shop we bored to piston size then honed. Now at home I'll use my mill or lathe to bore to piston size + 1/2 clearance then the flex hone finishes up. While the flex hone doesn't "remove" material it's been my experience that it will flatten or remove your tool marks and there will be a measurable difference. I figure that you've several paths that will get you to your goal.

The adjustable gear driven hone will hone the bore diameter to what it's set at exactly nothing more nothing less once the tension disappears. Now getting the size of the bore correct top to bottom is going slow. Then stop and measure the bore. Then go back in with the hone if the measurement is different top to bottom. I keep the hone running where the tighter dimension it till it's equal top to bottom. I measure the bore in four places using a inside and outside mics double checking it. It's always 99.999% round with zero taper. Once you learn how the hone works and you get the feel of it. It takes a tripple gear reduction 1/2" drill to turn this adjustable hone. Just keep the honing oil flowing.

Changing sleeves,
You can carefully press out the old liner. Then mic the old sleeve and the new sleeve, they should be close measurement wise. Then they freeze the new liner (dry ice) and heat the cylinder and assemble it quickly.

Interesting moments after I left my last post I got the call that my Cylinder is about ready. My Liner cracked all around the way around the Transfer Ports. The Liner was loose in the Cylinder and we think that's why it cracked. Everything below the transfers just fell out. The cylinder got bored out before a new Liner was made. So the new liner is larger in the OD than the original. This required a blank that was not a standard size for a 250, and therefore a special order.

I have a 14" Lodge and Shipley Lathe and a Bridgeport Mill. I have used the Mill to Ball Hone a Cylinder not to change the diameter but to just break the glaze to seat rings. The only way I could Bore a Cylinder on the Mill would be to crank the Knee since the Quill doesn't have enough travel. I figured it wouldn't be accurate enough. I suppose there could be a way to add a reversing attachment to the Quill, so that I could get the Cross Thatch pattern right when Honing with stones.

i grew up metric .M7 ? doesnt exist as far as im concerned
sae sockets are for in between sizes to be hammered onto rounded off metric sizes .
sea seems to be asst with anger lol . must be an age thing . old people at work " move that thing 4 fkn foot " its fkn miles away . nother inch . etc . also i think it gets yelled because its less syllables .

think nz went metric 40 odd years ago

Has anyone used stainless fasteners? I know they aren't original but I like the brushed finish I've seen on some. If so, what metric grade have you used or recommend?

Mark

All my bikes are metric, so that's what I keep on hand. Agreed with the different standards. JIS for my Kawasaki, Euro for the Huskies. In many cases the only difference is the head.

Would be nice if M14X1.25 nyloc nuts could be had for less than $10-US each though.

I've used stainless the common grade is A2 but be warned if you don't lube them they can Gaul, and have a tendency to shear.
I don't use stainless any more.

Roczen has those...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_the_United_States