Ignition advice on '72 WR250

Are the screws easily accessible through the flywheel slits. Seems like it's not easy to access the backing plate with the flywheel on. Thanks.

Flywheel has to be removed to access the stator plate screws. Once the screws are loose the plate may not move easily. Twisting the plate back and forth an inch a few times will break the bond between the plate and engine case making things a bit easier.

Timing an old points ignition can be frustrating due to having to removing the flywheel a few times to get the timing where you want it, its just the nature of the beast. Don't sweat it if the timing is not dead on after torquing the flywheel because doing so will change the timing by a tenth of a mm, unless you're racing the bike and require the absolute best performance in which case you'll need to make fine adjustments to the points gap to dial in the timing.

All this work drives some folks batty so they solve it with a new $500 electronic ignition, which is well worth the money especially if your Femsa is driving you to the brink of insanity.

I paid about 300$ for my Vape for the 450, only took 2 months to get it!

I know it's an old thread but the engines been pulled apart this week and theres some damage inside along the lines of casings been welded, signs the piston was seized and a damaged crank. That'll probably be why I couldn't get it started.
Anyone know of a 250 or 400 engine for sale?

Not sure where you are but give John a call at http://www.vintagehusky.com/ He can most likely help you with your search:<)

Thanks for your reply Steve. I managed to source the parts i needed, most from Charlie Preston at Husqvarna vintage. The engine guy said its doubtful it would've run in the state it was as the crank was damaged and the piston/ barrel badly scored. I posted a bit more detail on another thread. If only it had been as simple as the ignition haha.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/72-wr-exhaust-port-inlet-reeds-and-crankcase-weld.88057/