1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

125-200cc I seized her again...

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by Harley, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. troy deck Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Republic MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    87 250wr 12 cr125
    Other Motorcycles:
    kx65 ty80 rm80 kdx250
    kellys right you better change both seals at the minimum unless you just really really really like spending money and working on it instead of riding it
  2. R-J van Hulst Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cambodia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125 + 40 = WB 165 and a SM165
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda CB 400 Vtec 3
    Harley likes this.
  3. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    hey im all about it but dont you have to split the cases to change the drive side one? i doubt that is going to get done
  4. wallybean Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    Montana
    No need to split the cases. Pull the primary gear, pull the spacer that goes over the crank end and seals against the seal. Now use a seal puller you can rent at any auto parts store and pull the seal. Install the new seal and re-assemble.
    Harley, Motosportz and justintendo like this.
  5. wallybean Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    Montana
    Ps, One thing to always consider with the SM/WRE is that with the detuned cylinder(all ports lowered ~3+ mm) your effective compression ratio is higher than the WR/CR. So when you increase the breathing capacity of those motors with WR/CR induction and exhaust parts you are going to need to run better fuel or richer carburation to compensate. Just an FYI.
  6. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125

    Is this the case if I have put a CR cylinder on, or what are the implications of that? :thinking:
  7. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    Will not work as you dont have the mechanical part to run the PV
  8. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125

    It's fitted already, the PV Pulley setup just mounts over where the mechanical setup would connect to the valve puller!
  9. R-J van Hulst Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cambodia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125 + 40 = WB 165 and a SM165
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda CB 400 Vtec 3
    the timing of the exhaust valve is a fixed programed thing in the control unit.

    it will work but you will never achieve the same characteristics as a wr or a cr with the electrical actuated set up.

    unless you go in the internals and possibly able to modify the electronics (most unlikely)

    Robert-Jan
  10. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125

    Yeah I was thinking this from what I read but I don't mind so much about absolute max performance.
  11. wallybean Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    Montana
    If you are using the CR cylinder then you are fine with compression but the pv timing will be different as Robert-Jan stated.
    Harley likes this.
  12. AUSKY Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cairns, FNQ,Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08 TE510 96 WR125 00 WR360 13 WR165
    Other Motorcycles:
    1999 XR250 83 YZ 490
    The pic of your seal looks very suss Harley.

    You can make a cheap leak down tester with a rubber foot from a pair of crutches, or a tapered rubber plug (for the exhaust side) & a plastic pipe plug, the same size as the intake manifold & a tubeless tyre valve. It was under AUD$15 for the lot.

    Drill a hole in the plastic plug, smaller than the tyre valve, so that the tyre valve fits in snug & tight. Then pull the valve in through the hole. Mount the rubber in the exhaust hole & install the plastic plug in the intake manifold & tighten up the hose clamp onto it.

    Then pump it up with a push bike pump to about 8 PSI, then measure the pressure drop with a digital tyre gauge. You should not exceed 1 PSI / minute pressure drop. If you do then there is an air leak some where. To locate the leak mix up a spray bottle of soapy water and spray it around the engine over the seals, gaskets etc. You will see bubbles forming at the site of the air leak.

    It was what I had to use to find a similar problem on my 165. I found that I had a warped intake manifold that was leaking & causing mine to suck in air, hence leaning it out & seizing it.

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    [IMG]

    On another note see if you can measure the squished solder with vernier callipers or a micrometer not a ruler.

    Hope this helps Harley. Good luck mate!!:thumbsup:
    Harley, shawbagga, juicypips and 4 others like this.
  13. shawbagga Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Eaton, Western Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None
    Other Motorcycles:
    2018 Gasgas XC250
    nice bush mechanics Damo!:thumbsup:
    AUSKY likes this.
  14. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125
    That is some seriously cool work on a budget right there! Really liking that, I'll give it a go soon.

    On another note, I see you have V-Force reeds there - what model are those? I hear the V301B (Honda CR125) is what I'm looking for would that be correct?
    AUSKY likes this.
  15. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125
    Guys, luck is seriously out the window now...

    Still the detonation continues.

    Heres where Im at:
    Sketchy looking bearing seal replaced
    MS3 rod installed and carb setup - PJ is still 4 turns out for good measure lol
    Still got two base gaskets in - squish should be more than adequate
    No apparent leaks
  16. troy deck Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Republic MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    87 250wr 12 cr125
    Other Motorcycles:
    kx65 ty80 rm80 kdx250
    that the trouble with leaks they aren't apparent
  17. R-J van Hulst Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cambodia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125 + 40 = WB 165 and a SM165
    Other Motorcycles:
    Honda CB 400 Vtec 3
    did you check the other seal of the crank shaft?

    still could be in that one
    if it is on the top of the seal then the air can enter through the engine housing you might try to close yor carter vent hose and see if that makes a difference

    reed cage or reeds not cracked?

    gasket between the engine carter half's

    Robert-Jan
  18. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125

    I haven't replaced the other seal because I don't have an impact wrench and I don't think I'll get far without one on that side.

    Tried plugging the oil breather but it didn't make any difference.

    I'm gonna build a leak-down tester asap and go from there.

    Update: On a whim I went out to see how close I could get to the other seal.. Got all the way in without much trouble using my mini socket set and a wrench but as expected I can't get the bolt off the crank shaft with the tools I have. Making some calls now to see if I can get someone to call over with a bigger socket set!
  19. johnnyboy Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 125
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 250f
    Left hand thread that side Harley Are you sure it detonation not some other noise ??? with all those parts replaced even if the right side seal is leaking I cant see that making it detonate unless the thing is not even fitted plus it would smoke like Thomas the tank engine
  20. Harley Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Ireland
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    SMS 125
    Haha that may have been the problem then, I did try going the other way but I'm just starting to take the edges off the bolt so I'll wait for a bigger socket set.

    Pretty damn sure it's detonation - no doubts really and it hasn't changed any. It's killing me now at this point, what the hell is the problem! :banghead:

    Seriously. Intake area is sealed up real good, MS3 installed and I'm four-stroking all over the place, fresh left side crank seal and large squish clearance thanks to the two base gaskets being in.

    I haven't been loosing ANY oil from the clutch nor do I have excessive smoke, so I doubted the right side seal was the issue either but at this point I'll try anything. Worth mentioning I also plugged the oil breather to see if it was sucking air, again no resolve.

    Few more questions:
    • Can you have an air leak from your powervalves?
    • I have a fresh o-ring on my exhaust but could I draw air in that way?
    • Could old/bad fuel do this? Is it worth getting some fresh to try?