Husky TE310 2011: backfiring, power loose and die

Hi,
I have a problem in my Husky TE 310 2011: Bike starts and runs fine for few hours, then starts viciously backfiring then engine starts dying and finally comes to halt. Difficult to get it to start again. After some times (when goes cold?) restart normally.

I have read here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/intermittent-backfiring-te310-then-wont-start.24088/
and here: http://canberrariders.org.au/index.php?threads/husky-backfiring-fixed.141411/

and simply chang HIGH TENSION cable (from coil to spark) I have solved my problem.

Today, after some hours where husky goes very well, problems appears again!

Now I would try to change Spark plug cap but I can't find anywere bacause the original has a circle that stop dust (see image) and I have only find without this circle.

ideas? And where I can found this cap?

Thanks for your help
Marco

Does your fuel pump audibly prime when you turn the key on?
Does it sound the same when the bike is hot versus when it is cold?
The fuel pump could be seizing up the hotter the bike gets.

Check your intake manifold boot for cracks.

I've had two coils fail on my 2010 TE250.

They seem to have separated at the mounting lug and allowed moisture in.

I use a water hose to spray under the tank to find the issue.

New coils ($25) fixed the issue twice.

I also cleaned and lubed the coil connections.

I had an identical issue with a Yamaha WR400 that turned out to be a bad ecu failing under heat. The 2011 TE310 has very little room under the tank and it is very hot under there.

Hi guys,
I'm still looking for my problem and I have replaced with new ones alla these components:
- spark
- spark caps
- High tension cable
- voltage regulator
- stator
but nothing: problem appears after 1 hour probably when hot.
Now I will try to change COIL...any ideas?
Please help me!!!
Regards
Marco

Yes sound is the same when the bike is hot versus when it is cold!

Marco-

you seem to think you have a spark/ignition problem; have you done any testing to confirm this? I would use a spark plug or (better) a cheap coil tester ($5 in the US; neon light or a gap tester) and characterize how it is sparking when it runs good in the daylight. Then later, when it starts to run bad, whip out the coil tester and see whats up.

If I was replacing things blindly, the coil would've been one of the first things, the stator and regulator (bike isn't charging?) would've been last.

Again, confirm you actually have a spark problem.

It sounds like the bike is going lean (if it isn't a spark/ignition problem). OHR suspects a cracked manifold- he has had to deal with them a lot. I would lean a bit towards an injector problem or a coolant temperature sensor (CTS) starting to fail. It sounds like your fuel pump is ok but they have been known to have heat related problems too.

The main point here is if it's not an ignition problem, it's probably too much air or not enough fuel- either which may be related to heat or running time. And unfortunately, a failing CTS can trick the ECU into not giving the right amount of fuel, which makes this one hard to diagnose (but fortunately: it's cheap $20USD)

keep an open mind.

good luck.

Coil replaced but nothing, problem remains!!!
I think that I have problem in charging battery circuit because when problem appears...seems that battery is gone low!
Is possible that all is ok as long as battery is full but with issue on charging circuit my battery gradually lower and so fuel pump not send enough gasoline and than bike die.
Voltage regulator is very hot so I have changed my battery but problems remains!!!
Is possible that solenoid starter is not good and so voltage regulator can't charge the battery and so bacomes very hot?
I should try to change solenoid starter?
Any ideas?
Thanks
Marco

start your bike. put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. with a fully charged battery, you should see about 14v (13.8-14.5v). if your voltage is far outside this range, you have a charging system problem (battery, regulator, stator, wiring, switches, fuses... something). Since you've replaced a majority of the big components already, I'd take a hard look at the wiring. The starter relay (aka "solenoid") is a good place to look- it's been know to have eroded connections.

when the voltage is low on your bike, all kinds of weird stuff can happen. have you been charging your bike a lot? you did not mention this before, if so. I have never charged my bike in 2.5 years (~6000miles 2 batteries).

the regulator on your bike should be fairly hot all the time because of the technology it uses, but not super hot. I'd guess 60°C.

Marco- please test components before replacing (well, except the CTS, which is hard to test and cheap to replace and also causes weird problems). maybe get a friend who is familiar with diagnostics.

good luck

It will be the pick up coil that is braking down when hot. problem is it is not available as a separate part (comes as part of the stator)

possibly. and you can buy after-market trigger coils to solder in.

However, it seems Marco already put in a new stator (which includes the trigger coil- as you know) back in July, as stated in post #4. So we can rule that out- *maybe* (I've seen weirder things happen though).

Try to borrow a ECU from another bike and swap them

Hi Guys,
I have change battery from 4A to 6A but problem remains.
I have tested and I see that Voltge Regulator is very hot and is impossible to touch it, also cable that go at battery from solenoid starter (+) is hot.
Any ideas?
Could be a solution to move VR on other places with more air?

I had the EXACT same thing happen on my Yamaha Wr426.

I changed everything, then dumped the bike.

Turns out it was the CDI or ECU failing when it heated up.

Before buying a new ECU, I'd remove all electrical connections and clean and grease them with Di- electric grease and see what happens.

Swap a known good ECU from a buddy if you can, or pick one up on ebay.

Hey Marco. Air, fuel, timed spark and compression are the things you need for your bike to run. We should try to isolate these so you don't spend money on parts that you don't have to.

The clues that you offered so far are that the bike starts normally when cold, but dies and backfires when it's hot and does not re-start. I'd suggest testing whether fuel delivery is the cause by carrying a can of ether (aka starter fluid). Lean conditions can cause the problems you described (too much air or too little fuel). If the problem returns shoot 3-5 seconds of ether in to the intake. If it starts back up and runs for 10 seconds, you have a air/fuel problem. This will get you on the path to isolating the problem (manifold leak, pump, injector or filter failure). If it does not start, you will need to determine if you have spark.

Can you recreate the problem by letting the bike idle for an extended period? If you can, it will be VERY helpful. Does your bike seem to be running VERY hot just prior to dying?

Marco- with the type of charging system our bikes have, the stator produces maximum power always and all of it goes through the regulator (about 200watts). so if the battery is being charged or the power is being dumped into the frame- the regulator will be pretty hot. But it should not be hot enough to melt wires.

the ~8ga lead to the battery should not be hot, unless it is being heated by the engine or exhaust. it would take a lot of current (50amps I'd guess) to make it hot... your battery would be dead in a very short time.

did you solve your problem from last year? did you do any of the tests that people recommended? is this a new problem or a continuation of the same issue?

Problem is the same of last year but now I have changed all electics components.
I have a 12 hole injector and a ECU modified and acrapocick with lambda eliminator.
Is possible tha I have some problem in my injector and so is important to clean? Can I do it by myself?

I add bike starts with some big intermittent empty engine and than dies with (not always) FAIL on my monitor lcd.

Can I try to reinstall sonda lambda (now I have sonda lambda eliminaor sensor) on my ECU improved + 12hole injector + acrapovick?
Or I need to reinstall original ECU with original injector?
Is possible that problems is caused by carburetion that on some situations is not god?
Thanks
Marco

Just wondering if this issue was ever resolved? I have a very similar issue when hot.

I have solved all problems...and solution has been very very stupit.
I simply moved VR a little further back and screwed it to the screw holding the rear suspension. Here It takes more air and cools better.
The problem has disappeared.
I spent hundreds of euros for nothing ... the solution was very simple.

I hope to be able to help all those who have the same problem.