1. 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

Help, weak front brake.

Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by BentAero, Aug 18, 2008.

  1. BentAero Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    '07 TE250. I didn't realize how lame the front brake was until I rode an '08 TE250. Wow! that thing had a front brake from a road race bike. I then rode a CRF250X that also had a killer front brake. Hmm, something's wrong w/ mine.

    I bled the front brake line thinking that would improve it's performance. That didn't do anything, no change. It doesn't feel 'soft' like there's air in the line, and it doesn't get any firmer if you 'pump it', it just doesn't stop well.

    Is this setup prone to 'hidden' air bubbles that don't come out easily?

    Should I change pads? (stockers are in place)

    Ideas?

    TIA.
  2. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    If the lever does not feel soft and you bled it i would look at cleaning the disk with brake clean and swapping out pads.
  3. Husky_Ant Husqvarna

    Location:
    UK
    I had the the same problem when the children cleaned my whole bike with silicon spray. Bless Them.:D

    I got off lighter than a friend whose son polished his week old R1 with a Brilo Pad (like wire wool). I'd of loved to be a fly on the wall in his house."Whada ya use son?":):(:mad::eek::eek::eek::eek::confused:
  4. Coffee CH Owner

    Location:
    Between homes - in ft Wayne IN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2006 TE250, 2013 TR650 Terra - sold
    Sounds like something is wrong to me. I've ridden a bunch of 2006/7 TEs and needed to be careful with the front brake cause they worked so well.
  5. surfer1100 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ottawa, CAN
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    09 WR250, Memories of past tiddlers.
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM-01 EN 125, 03 125 MX, 09 EN 155
    +1 My front brake is deadly if your not accustomed to it.
  6. BentAero Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    Exactly. This has been this way since day one when it was brand new. I'm kinda baffled as I doubt it is a contaminate on the rotor, because wouldn't it have worn off in dozens of rides and 1,400 miles?

    I will sand/scuff the rotor and replace the pads as I've got nothing to lose. I was hoping someone had one of those magic bullet fixes where they said "This is what's wrong, it happened to me..."
  7. raisrx251 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Virginia
    The stock pads are the sintered (not sure on that spelling) meaning more metal. They wear into the rotor pretty badly and cause the front to be grabby normally. How many miles do you have on the bike? When you bleed them make while the bleeder is open and the master cylinder is full to push the pads in the caliper all the way back. That is where the nasty brake fluid is. I prefer a good organic pad on the front, like the braking brand. Like Ride said clean your rotor well and try a new set of pads. The more metalic pads though gives longer wear and usually is more grabby. Also take a look at your rotor closely and see if there is rub marks like the pad is not making contact fully.
  8. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    Spongey lever = air in lines.

    Firm lever and no stopping power = glazed pads.

    Remove the pads, scub off a couple thousnadths using sandpaer on a flat surface.
    Clean rotor with brake-clean and retry.

    I've had pretty good luck wiith this.

    YMMV.
  9. Goosedog Husqvarna
    B Class

    That glazed pad sounds like your gremlin there Gary. Get some of those speed-bleeders too, I just put some on my 610 and it makes bleeding your brakes a simple one-man job. Not that I'd mind an excuse to come over for another cold beer mind you. :D