Help Needed 96 TE 410

Discussion in 'Older Single cams' started by Garren, Jul 31, 2013.

  1. Garren Husqvarna

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1996 Husqvarna TE 410
    Hey Guys!,

    Hope this is in the right section of the forum (New here).
    As the title suggests I am in need of help for my 1996 Husqvarna TE410! I am new to this forum and have tried everything except this forum and taking it to the ever expensive mechanic! (I am a final year university student and cash is tight). This will be long winded but I TRUELY thank anyone for recommended tips/help!! I will give as much info as possible on the current situation.

    Background Info:
    I purchased this husky as a project and when purchased had the general carby clogged problems but sorted with an ultra sonic cleaner. I stripped and rebuilt the engine myself (3rd bike ive done). I checked mechanical timing including valve clearence and was spot on! Replaced all top end gaskets and seals withOEM products. After rebuild I ran the bike standing with no reving and was running beautifully with no issues what so ever. After 5 mins of idling, i rode it (not hard) around the yard for 30mins. Once done i was on the way back to the house and the engine began to 'bog out'(lose power), stalled and followed by the largest back fire ive heard (exhaust backfire and slight carby backfire). Upon inspection of the engine and electrics I noticed a wire that was coming from the regulator which was exposed and i can only assume has shorted against the frame. I have rebuilt the carby enough times to know it blind folded as i originally thought that was the problem but i cant justify it as this happened out of the blue, which almost rules out most things, except the electrics.
    I have since stripped and checked everything from piston, rod, valves, magneto, carby. I have cleaned and tested the mageto to coil and that is fine. I havent tested coil as i dont believe it is the coil as it has a strong consistant spark (I could be wrong as im not an auto electrician). I have replaced the CDI from a running one and still the same problems. When the bike idles i have adjusted all the screws but as soon as i up the revs it stalls.

    Current Issues:
    Upon kicking the bike, it kicks back like a F** MULE! (Broke my boot doing so), this occurs most times and since re-rebuild occurs less. Once the bike idles it idles for about 1 min in total it usually cuts out after then sometimes can hold a solid low RPM idle until manually cut off, it cuts itself off either by backfire out the carby or a general engine die. Bike doesnt rev at 1300rpm which is should as i cant even touch the throttle without it dieing. If the bike ides for a while it backfires out the exhaust at a constant repetition. Ive tried putting my hand over the back of the carby to make it draw more fuel and it only slightly increases the rpm but dies straight away. Using the Choke makes starting the bike even harder. I have since replaced cam chain and tensioners and to no avail! Magnets in the magneto are good and dont look damaged.


    Thinking that it could either be the regulator or i need to retard the stator? I dont know to much about either of these topics and ANY help would be fantastic!

    I have tried to incude all the information as i can think of. If there is a piece of info required to make a better judgement please let me know. This issue has going on for about 3 months. When this bike ran, it was fantastic and didnt have a single problem. My theory is a blown regulator/coil as mechanical timing and mechanics of the engine are 100% to book.

    I have been guided by Husky themselves in stating that the 1998 to 1996 are the same in mechanical timing specifications the only difference is left hand kick (96) and right hand Kick (98+).

    I have used both manuals in my progression. To note the manuals are usless and all the important parts are not in english such as most of the electrical section.

    Thanks for any help
    Garren
  2. rancher1 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    WA
    Hi Garren, look at the magnet ring itself inside of the flywheel, these have a tendacy to become unbonded and slip timing. The magnets will be fine themselves but the whole ring will move. You can really only check this by removing the flywheel. Good luck.